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625 action binds...


Nemo

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I'm not much of a revo shooter, but sometime ago I got a good deal on an used 625 that had the hammer spur removed, has the ball detent, a set of Wilson springs, Millet reat and SDM FO front sight. The package also included about 100 moonclips, 8 holders and a SL 002 basketweave holster. All for $400!!! :D

Anyway, since I intend to get classified in revo, I got the 625 out of the safe and took it to the range to start practicing with it. For the first practice session I was using Win white box (Wally-Packs). The gun is ACCURATE and the trigger is sweet. However, after some shooting the action would bind with at least one shot of every m-clip. If I pull the trigger REALLY HARD the action would go around but it feels as if I could bend the trigger! :angry:

I don't have a clue of where to start looking to solve this. Could the cylinder be touching the barrel, or are the primers dragging on the breechface, or are the moonclips the problem??? :wacko::blink::wacko::blink:

Once more I come to you guys to seek guidance.

HELP!!!

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I don't have a clue of where to start looking to solve this.  Could the cylinder be touching the barrel, or are the primers dragging on the breechface, or are the moonclips the problem??? 

Nelson,

All the above could be the problem. More probably the gun is just dirty. Check for unburnt powder under the ejector star and make sure the chambers didn't got dirty. Also it is a good idea to drop all loaded moon clips in the chamber and back out to see if they fit right. Good luck.

Bill Nesbitt

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I've had a Model 25-2 and two Model 625's, and found that the following may cause the dragging you're having.

Bent/warped/too thick moon clips. They should lie flat (without rounds inserted) I don't have the spec's for thickness of moon clips available, but at least check that they are about the same thickness. One's that are thicker/thinner then the majority of your moon clips may cause binding.

Ammo problems: factory ammo shouldn't have high primers, but.....

Extractor grooves in the brass may vary, and may make a difference in how the rounds snap into the full moon clip. Some brass will have a thicker extractor groove then other brass, and this can cause the base of some rounds to stick out of the moon clip more then others.

Reloaded (home made/non-factory ammo)rounds may not seat fully into the chambers

Dirty chambers may interfere with seating the rounds, causing them to drag on the breechface.

Check for dirt/powder residue under the extractor star. Unburned powder/dirt etc... can keep the extractor from seating fully into the cylinder, and will cause binding.

It's rare, but there could be a burr on the extractor star, binding with the cylinder hand when the cylinder rotates.

If those don't help, then the services of a gunsmith who is familiar with S&W's, and with the oddities of shooting a rimless cartridge in a revolver design that normally used rimmed cartridges may be needed. Hope this helps.

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Thank you guys! That gives me place to start.

RGS,

Do you know if S&W would have a problem because of the gun been modified from its original configuration? Also, how do I know if it has excessive end shake?

Hopefully will get things moving properly and get my revolver D-class card... :D

Gracias again!

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My first guess is the moon clips. It could be any of the above but that is exactly what it feels like when you have bent moon clips. It's an easy check though, just set them on a flat table (without ammo) on each side and make sure they are flat. If they are bent at all, even a little bit, it will cause them to bind up.

That's an easy and free check, if that aint it, refer to above issues.

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AND: don't put oil on the inside shaft of the ejector (where it comes out of the cylinder on the trigger end). When you knock out the empties, it drags out some hard carbon and it will stick to the shaft if there is oil on it. That is what collects under the star and causes binding.

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Nelson, I will echo the thoughts of unburnt powder under the star. How much unburnt powder is left in the empty cases? To check end shake I always just tried to move the cylinder back and forth with the trigeer pulled on a completely empty revo. You can stretch the crane or get some end shake bearings ( which are just thin shims) I wear a few of the shims out from time to time.

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Nelson.

One other item. You stated that you have a ball detent set up. Is that in lieu of the factory lock up or in addition to? The thing being that if it still has the factory lock up on the extractor rod the rod can become loose and cause some problems but it will make it a bear to open the cylinder too.

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While your problem could be mechanical (take a good gunsmith about 30 seconds to diagnose) or bent/warpped moon clips, I'd agree with the writer above who suggested "dirty".

Mark Allison makes a gadget that has six brushes mounted on a plastic handle that allows you to brush out all six chambers at the same time. Every time you come to the line you first scrub out the crud as part of "load and make ready". Last I heard he was selling them through MIDWAY. You'd also want to brush under the ejector star and the face of the recoil shield (takes longer to explain than to do).

When loading your moon clips for a match, drop each one into the cylinder, pull the hammer back about 1/4 inch (or until the "bolt" releases allowing the cylinder to spin freely) and spin the cylinder. It should rotate without any binding just as easily as if it were empty. Even with factory ammo you will probably have "rejects" that you can spot by the scuff marks on the primers. I just set those aside for use in my 1911 which is much more forgiving.

Your situation is complicated by your bobbed hammer (after all you're dealing with a loaded gun!) and I don't know a safe way to deal with it. Perhaps another writer (or your gunsmith) can offer some suggestions. Other than that, keep the thing squeaky clean and have fun!

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Nelson,

Sorry for the delay. S&W Will work on the gun but make sure you advise them it is a competition gun and request they leave springs as is.

As far as the "Dirty" response. That is a very good diagnosis.

You asked about testing for end shake, cylinder closed (and unloaded) hold the yoke tight to the frame with one hand and see how much movement you have front to back with the cylinder. A little bit is OK but enough to hit the forcing cone is not. Check on all cylinders. Then check front to back movement of the yoke. I like the cylinder a little loose and the yoke tight.

Regards,

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Nelson,

Make a quick check of the screw that secures the crane yoke. I have had that screw loosen and let the cylinder move forward just enough to cause it to bind in the way you describe (it would be dragging on the forcing cone). I have also had the same symptoms from a dirty gun as well.

FWIW

dj

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WOW!! It's amazing the amount of help one can get in this place. Thank you very much again guys!

Just got back from Puerto Rico and haven't had the chance to make it to the range. But, rest assured that I've printed out all the responses and am taking them with me for the final check up.

Again, will let you know how it goes.

Cheers!

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