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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Fibber_Magee

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Everything posted by Fibber_Magee

  1. Much like riding a motorcycle, shooting is more about the journey than the destination. Unless you are about twenty with better that 20-20 vision, increadable eye-hand coordination, and deep pockets for lots of lessons and practice, you are probably not going to win any major matches. If the destination (winning) is your only purpose you'd be better off playing the lotto. On the other hand, if you enjoy the people, the challange, and the shooting then all you have to do is pick the gun YOU like to shoot and have fun! When you open your safe pick the first gun you reach for, the one that "feels" right in your hand. Pick the one you'd select if you were going out shooting for sheer fun rather than to a "match". THAT's the one you will shoot best and enjoy most.
  2. Go with DILLON, a bit pricey but you get what you paid for. The KRAMER holster is well made and you can hand it down to your grandchildren. Their moon clips are actually flat and will survive speed loads and being dropped on the ground. Like the post (above) I started with one of those nylon "slide on the belt" cartridge carriers and liked it so well I've never seen any reason to change. And, for IPSC matches you can carry enough ammunition to get you though those high round-count stages. DILLON also has the metal ones if that's what you want. My 4" 625 has the full underlug so I had to go direct to KRAMER for my holster. But, it is IDPA legal and even works for concealed carry (bad idea...the N frame is too bulky and waaay too heavy to carry around all day!). Go for it! After a match or two you'll wonder why you ever bothered with those "bottom feeder" guns.
  3. I'm facing the same problem. I live outside of Gainesville and the closest range is an hour and twenty minutes away. CCGR has a well run IDPA match every weekend (hwy 380 just east of 75) figure a twenty dollar bill and bring your own drinking water. They run "lost brass" so while you can hang around afterwards and pick up range brass, chances are you will find little if any of yours. CCIDPA has a web-site for more information. Near as I can tell, closest CAS shooting is either way-west of Dallas or way-east (looks to be 2 1/2 or 3 hours drive). Same for IPSC (I'll have to try Wichita Falls) and I've not found ICORE or a pin match anywhere. Just can't bring myself to face Dallas traffic so my experience is limited to north of there. If you come accross any that are worth a long drive please post here or send me an e-mail....
  4. You want changes? Can you spell USPSA? Perhaps video games... cost you a quarter and you get lots of shots without reloading. Without the equipment race in IPSC there wouldn't be an IDPA.. think about it. IDPA is what USPSA once was, which one would you rather have?
  5. Look into the KRAMER holster, good for USPSA, IDPA, and everyday carry. Take a while to break in but you can pass it on to your grandchildren. I think DILLON sells them or you can go to their web-site and order direct. Costs a little more than plastic, but you get your money's worth.
  6. While your problem could be mechanical (take a good gunsmith about 30 seconds to diagnose) or bent/warpped moon clips, I'd agree with the writer above who suggested "dirty". Mark Allison makes a gadget that has six brushes mounted on a plastic handle that allows you to brush out all six chambers at the same time. Every time you come to the line you first scrub out the crud as part of "load and make ready". Last I heard he was selling them through MIDWAY. You'd also want to brush under the ejector star and the face of the recoil shield (takes longer to explain than to do). When loading your moon clips for a match, drop each one into the cylinder, pull the hammer back about 1/4 inch (or until the "bolt" releases allowing the cylinder to spin freely) and spin the cylinder. It should rotate without any binding just as easily as if it were empty. Even with factory ammo you will probably have "rejects" that you can spot by the scuff marks on the primers. I just set those aside for use in my 1911 which is much more forgiving. Your situation is complicated by your bobbed hammer (after all you're dealing with a loaded gun!) and I don't know a safe way to deal with it. Perhaps another writer (or your gunsmith) can offer some suggestions. Other than that, keep the thing squeaky clean and have fun!
  7. The 547 was made in 3" and 4" fixed sight only on the "K" frame. Story I heard was they were made for French police use but were cataloged and sold here in small quanities. Ruger made a similar 9mm revolver (never seen one) that lacked the fancy extractor mechanism and possibly used "moon clips". The drawback to the S&W system was the taper of the 9x19 cartridge. Upon firing the case would "set back" against the recoil shield and impede (or stop) the rotation of the cylinder. This problem was minimized by the use of new factory ammo in a VERY clean gun (note the little plunger located above the firing pin hole, it serves to re-seat the fired case into the cylinder). However, re-loads or aluminium cased ammunition did not work well at all. A 547 in decent shape probably has some collector value (I sold mine for about half-again what I paid for it) but you probably won't take it to more than one or two matches before giving up on the idea. Anyway, buy it and try it! You'll enjoy playing with the thing and showing it off to your friends who refuse to believe that a 9mm revolver exists.
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