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Reuse of cleaning material


burket

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I am a newfer to reloading. I intend to use crushed walnut (PetSmart) for brass cleaning, currently with no additives. Can the cleaning material (crushed walnut) be re-used, and if so, what do I look for to decide to NOT re-use the cleaning material?

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I only used nut media a couple times, for me it generates alot more dust than corncob media, I use corncob and dillons polish, The walnut is courser and will clean dirt faster but it doesnt polish as well, If you just run the corncob a little longer you can clean and get a decent polish. Media lasts quite a while, you'll notice it getting darker and not working as well,

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Crushed walnut from Petsmart works great...use it until it takes noticeably longer for the brass to be clean. Add a strip of dryer static sheet (I cut them in a couple of pieces) and it will cut down on the dust....I usually put a new piece in with each batch of brass.

As a safety note, once the media has been used, it's contaminated with lead. Don't inhale the dust when you dump it from vibrator to separator and vice-versa....I actually hold my breath, dump it, quickly step away...wait a few seconds, then go back. You don't want to have it inside your house (garage is okay) not in the basement, spare room, etc....and wash your hands immediately after handling it. It's the number 2 biggest exposure risk most of use deal with since the compound in the primers we use is lead styphnate. As someone with a high lead count, believe me, it's no joke, and if you have children around, it's even more important. R,

Edited by G-ManBart
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I use the Lyman Turbo Media treated crushed walnut. It's reddish from all the jewlers rouge they put on it. As Bart said, I notice alot more dust and having to tumble alot longer after several uses. That's my queue to switch it out. This media works so great I can't stop using it, but the red dust is a nightmare so I'm going to try Bart's dryer sheet suggestion myself and see if it works. It's the dust all over the garage that I can't stand, I still tumble briefly a second time in plain corncob to clean the dust off the brass itself and only takes about 30min till they're shiny as can be.

I need another 3 tumblers :roflol:

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We save all the (used) dryer sheets to put in the tumbler. I have the large Dillon = so it has a lot of media in it, and I will use it for more than a few years. What works good is to put some 'low Odor' mineral spirits in the media with three or four used dryer sheets.

the mineral spirits will cause most of the dust to stick to the dryer sheets . The used ones are louse nit and no need to tear into strips like the new ones.

I have to be around dusty conditions in much of my work, so I don't risk the -hold my breath- trick any more. I will always use something like a tee shirt rag over my face .

The mineral spirits will help you clean out the 'ring' that forms in the tumbler. If you don't have a ring in it yet , that just because you haven't used it that much yet.

I am way too cheep to use a new dryer sheet.

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I've used the lizard litter for a few years, normally with a squirt of Lemon Soft Scrub (need to break the clumps up before putting in the brass) and then a cut up dryer sheet. I find that walnut cleans the inside of the cases better for me than corn cob, but corn cob puts a finer polish on. When I clean rifle brass I use walnut before sizing, then corn cob before priming and finishing the rounds. Brass comes out very shiny that way. :)

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+1 on the other excellent posts. I use 3 used sheets in my CV 750 and don't change the walnut out until it is dark blackish green which is over 12,000 rounds of pistol brass. I think some brass expert was on here recently and he washes his walnut off in a tightnit mesh bag. A 5 gallon paint strainer from a paint store would work perfectly. Then use the water on your vegetable garden. :devil:

Just kidding on the last sentence. :roflol:

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+1 on the other excellent posts. I use 3 used sheets in my CV 750 and don't change the walnut out until it is dark blackish green which is over 12,000 rounds of pistol brass. I think some brass expert was on here recently and he washes his walnut off in a tightnit mesh bag. A 5 gallon paint strainer from a paint store would work perfectly. Then use the water on your vegetable garden. :devil:

Just kidding on the last sentence. :roflol:

You forgot to add few words to your last sentence...it should read:

"Then use the water on your neighbor with the loud dog's vegetable garden." :roflol::roflol::roflol:

*only kidding of course

Edited by Erik S.
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I am a newfer to reloading. I intend to use crushed walnut (PetSmart) for brass cleaning, currently with no additives. Can the cleaning material (crushed walnut) be re-used, and if so, what do I look for to decide to NOT re-use the cleaning material?

When the material begins to look or dusty I discard and replace with new material - that's lead in the dust and you do not want to play with it.

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I seriously doubt there is that much lead in the media, You ever polished brass insignia ? It turns the cloth black with no help from lead. You have some powder residue in the cases. The lead from the bullets and the extremely small amount of lead in the priming compound is down range somewhere not left in the brass.

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I seriously doubt there is that much lead in the media, You ever polished brass insignia ? It turns the cloth black with no help from lead. You have some powder residue in the cases. The lead from the bullets and the extremely small amount of lead in the priming compound is down range somewhere not left in the brass.

Really? Any chance you happen to be an environmental safety expert in this area?

Even if it were only an "extremely small amount" it's not good, so that kind of makes it irresponsible to suggest it isn't worth taking precautionary measures.

As someone with a high lead count, I've had to do more than a little bit of studying on the matter, and spoken to experts at the state environmental office and our environmental safety folks in DC.

When the primer detonates, it coats everything the resulting gas contacts with a trace of the lead...and it's about the worst kind because it's been atomized, which makes it easier for your body to absorb.

I doubt these folks are just giving an opinion:

http://www.speer-bullets.com/getstarted/safety/reloading_safety.aspx

"Avoid breathing dust in the loading area. Have your loading room properly ventilated. If you use dry case-cleaning media, wear a dust mask when charging and emptying your case cleaner. The media can become charged with lead from fired cases."

http://www.health.state.ny.us/environmental/lead/target_shooting/

* Do you use indoor firing ranges?

* Do you cast bullets or tumble casings?

* Do you reload ammunition?

* If so, you are probably exposed to lead.

Our own MarkCO did a bunch of research:

http://dfuse.us/lead.html

And all sorts of other organizations recognize the risk...and it's not handling lead bullets that's the problem. That only leaves lead in the primers, and lead vapors for folks who cast bullets.

http://www.cdphe.state.co.us/dc/OH/shooting.html

http://www.doh.wa.gov/topics/lead.htm

http://www.epi.state.nc.us/epi/oii/leadfactsprevent.pdf

http://www.epi.alaska.gov/eh/lead/default.htm

There are lots more, but that should make the point pretty clear....cases are contaminated, and if you tumble them, the media will be contaminated. If my hands, that were entirely outside the gun, will show positive with a lead test wipe, the case that the burning powder had to pass through will surely show positive. R,

Edited by G-ManBart
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Bart, thanks for the info. I for one need to change some of the things I've been doing lately.

Does anyone know how to get your lead level tested? Do you just ask your regular doctor, or do you need to go to a specialist? I'd like to get a test done to establish a baseline so I can monitor it going forward.

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Bart, thanks for the info. I for one need to change some of the things I've been doing lately.

Does anyone know how to get your lead level tested? Do you just ask your regular doctor, or do you need to go to a specialist? I'd like to get a test done to establish a baseline so I can monitor it going forward.

Just ask your regular doc and they can either do it there, or order the test at a local lab. It's not expensive (think my copay was $20 or something). There's a lead safety thread in the misc. forum. R,

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FWIW, I probably go overboard on this but... I only shoot .40 and .223 in any volume and "pre-process" the brass in bulk when I have time.

I start by soaking the brass in hot water and Simple Green for half an hour. This starts to get off any dirt and loosens the residue. Then agitate it for a few minutes then rinse, rinse, rinse. Dump off the water and spread the brass out on a big towel to dry overnight. Then sort through the brass and pull out anything that doesn't belong or looks bad. Then it's into the tumbler with walnut with some mineral spirits and a dryer sheet for 30-60 min to get rid of any remaining gunk. Like others have said, be careful here because there's some nasty stuff in there. Gloves and a dust mask are a good idea.

I've read you can wash walnut but I can get it locally and it's cheap - doesn't seem worth the bother and I'm not sure of the efficacy of that either. As to adding Soft Scrub, I'd be concerned about it leaving a residue on the cases that might wear a sizing die. But I'm not worried with polishing the cases at this point, just getting them clean enough to resize.

From that point on, .40 cases get lubed and run through a EGW U die on my old Lee Pro press. That goes very fast. The .223 cases get run through my Dillon 550 fitted with a full length sizing die and a Dillon trimmer. Then any military primed cases get run through a Dillon swager. That's a PITA but can't be avoided.

Resized cases go back in the tumbler with corn cob and polish for an hour, then, it's time for one last inspection for anything that looks wonky. I can't find proper sized corncob that I like locally so I buy a couple 10lb boxes and some polish from Grafs from time to time. Someone suggested Nu Finish car wax works well so I might try that. I keep reusing the same batch of corncob till it looks bad and isn't working as well then toss it.

This seems like a lot of work but it's mindless work - good for cold and/or rainy days when your brain needs some time off :cheers:.

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Take the lead level serious, mine rose to 19 from an indoor weekly match. I have used Mineral oil to hold the dust down in corn cob media before but have stopped in the last few years. Think it's time to start back and will try the dryer sheets on the next cleaning session. Good idea.

I don't reuse corn cob media when it dark green just replace it.

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....and will try the dryer sheets on the next cleaning session. Good idea.

It works well for me.

*When I take the lid off of the tumbler, I use a pair of pliers or some other device to gently lift that now-nasty sheet out and put it in the trash. I don't want to dislodge any more of the residue than necessary during this step.

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Lot's of good info thus far.

I'll just add...

Here's a good deal on corn cob media.

Econoline 20/40 Blasting Media 40 lbs. $22.01 Delivered

I've got a sack but I ain't cracked it open yet. I still need to use up some other stuff first.

Anyway, from what I've read on the different gun forums this 20/40 size is small enough that it doesn't get stuck in flash holes.

One thing is for sure, it's priced right.

Seedtick

:)

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