Swarovski Ballistic BRT Software Question

[DMAC]

I just ordered a Z6i 1-6X and I was reviewing the BRT Software on Swarovski's Website.

Normally I use Ballstic:FTE Software on my iTouch to calculate holders in MOA at various distances and that has worked well with my K-Dot.

I like the BRT Software because it will tell you exactly what range the POI wil be for the horizontal stadia in the reticle for your given load, magnification, etc and you print a copy and keep it with you.

I normally zero my rifle at 50 yards with my current load, rifle, and scope because the bullet drops back down to the point of aim again at about 225 yards ( I think many people do this for the advantage of not really needing to do any holdovers until you stretch out to 250-300 yards or so.

Well the Swaro BRT Software won't let you set a zero range less than 100 yards.

So here is my question. For those of you who used to set your zero at 50 yards and then switched the Z6i, did you change your zero height?

Perhaps you just kept your zero height at 50 yards and then just used other software to calculate your holdovers in mils with the Z6i and didn't use the BRT software.

Any feedback would be much appreciated!

I hope this makes sense. I'm not a long range shooter and I've attempted to learn this on my own with only the help of the internet.

Edited November 29, 2010 by DMAC

[boomfab]

Use your ballistic program to see where your zeros are the same. 50/200 is pretty common but check your own loads to make sure of course. Then use the number above 100 for the swarovski calculator.

[DMAC]

Use your ballistic program to see where your zeros are the same. 50/200 is pretty common but check your own loads to make sure of course. Then use the number above 100 for the swarovski calculator.

I thought about that, but won't the calculator assume that the bullet will still elevating upwards on it's flight path if I enter 200, when it will really be coming down at 200 yards if it is sighted in for 50?

[mpeltier]

At 200 the bullet is coming down. At 50 its going up. Bullet always intersects line of sight twice. Hence the term 50/200 zero. The farther the confirmed zero the better. That is why its best to get it close at 50, then reconfirm (and usually make minor adjustment) at 200.

[caspian guy]

Use your ballistic program to see where your zeros are the same. 50/200 is pretty common but check your own loads to make sure of course. Then use the number above 100 for the swarovski calculator.

OP

I thought about that, but won't the calculator assume that the bullet will still elevating upwards on it's flight path if I enter 200, when it will really be coming down at 200 yards if it is sighted in for 50?

Maybe you could plug in 225 for the zero and see what it tells you for the other distances and see if they make sense?

[boomfab]

You can just skip the swarovski calculator. Use 0.75 mil for each drop in the reticle. It'll put you right on with your iphone.

Edited November 29, 2010 by boomfab

[Doug H.]

You want to use the second zero, 200, and it will work fine. I am starting with a 150 yard zero so that the stadia lines match up around 300,

400, 500, 550 and 625 with my 68gr load to see how it works. Puts point of impact within 1.5" of the center of the dot from 25 yards to 200.

Doug

[DMAC]

Use your ballistic program to see where your zeros are the same. 50/200 is pretty common but check your own loads to make sure of course. Then use the number above 100 for the swarovski calculator.

OP

I thought about that, but won't the calculator assume that the bullet will still elevating upwards on it's flight path if I enter 200, when it will really be coming down at 200 yards if it is sighted in for 50?

Maybe you could plug in 225 for the zero and see what it tells you for the other distances and see if they make sense?

Thanks. I actually compared my Ballistic FTE to the Swaro calculator. I could tell that even when I programmed in a zero distance of 200 yards into the the Swaro calc that it was calculating this as the the zero for when the bullet was descending. I didn't look carefully enought but there was addition info in the page that told how high the bullet would be at 100 yards.

My local range only goes out to 100 yards, so I rely on my 50 yard zero and check to see how high it hits at a 100 to confirm that the ballistic calc are at least in the ballpark.

Now as long as my scope gets here by Wednesday, I'll be all set with some new glass for FB3G!

[DMAC]

Thanks for the 0.75 mil info! This is helpful.

I also played around with the swaro calculator. I think that I am going to bring two loads: 110gr @ 3150 fps for long range stages and 147 gr @ 2800 for hoser and everything pretty much inside 200 yards.

We'll see how it goes once I get them chronographed, but I think a 150-200 yard zero will work well. I also don't know how my 1:11.25" twist will like the 110 grain bullets. Much to learn in the next 2 days!

[Doug H.]

You can just skip the swarovski calculator. Use 0.75 mil for each drop in the reticle. It'll put you right on with your iphone.

Just checked my BRT reticle booklet that came with the scope and it says the marks in the reticle are 1 mil each. Here is a photo of the info from page 1.

Doug

[boomfab]

You can just skip the swarovski calculator. Use 0.75 mil for each drop in the reticle. It'll put you right on with your iphone.

Just checked my BRT reticle booklet that came with the scope and it says the marks in the reticle are 1 mil each. Here is a photo of the info from page 1.

Doug

When I tried working with mine at first, I zeroed at 200 with 69SMKs at ~2900 fps and assumed 1 mil drops. Nothing hit where it was supposed to on my flash targets set out to 400 yards. I'm using the G5 drag profile for the SMK.

Maybe I'm wrong.

[Alaskapopo]

You can just skip the swarovski calculator. Use 0.75 mil for each drop in the reticle. It'll put you right on with your iphone.

Just checked my BRT reticle booklet that came with the scope and it says the marks in the reticle are 1 mil each. Here is a photo of the info from page 1.

Doug

When I tried working with mine at first, I zeroed at 200 with 69SMKs at ~2900 fps and assumed 1 mil drops. Nothing hit where it was supposed to on my flash targets set out to 400 yards. I'm using the G5 drag profile for the SMK.

Maybe I'm wrong.

Did you use the program. Assuming you chronoed your load and it was 2900 fps this is what your chart should look like.

http://ballisticprograms.swarovskioptik.com/BRT_us.html

2900 seems fast for that bullet weight. I would be lucky to get 2750 which would change things a bit. I guess the main question is did you chrono or are you going by the reloading book?

Pat

Edited November 30, 2010 by Alaskapopo

[boomfab]

I have a chrono. You can hit 2900 with TAC or 8208 XBR pretty easily.

I'll shoot at 100/200/300/400 again today.

[Doug H.]

Trajectory charts and programs are all fine, but you need to verify to make sure everything is correct. What I like to do is get verification at the longest range I can find. A friend knows a tree farmer that has targets set out to 1100 yards. I set my scope to hit at the required distance, usually 300 yards but I did it for 600 yards before the Rocky Mountain match, and then check my holds going back in to 100 to see if it matches the chart.

Doug

[Alaskapopo]

Trajectory charts and programs are all fine, but you need to verify to make sure everything is correct. What I like to do is get verification at the longest range I can find. A friend knows a tree farmer that has targets set out to 1100 yards. I set my scope to hit at the required distance, usually 300 yards but I did it for 600 yards before the Rocky Mountain match, and then check my holds going back in to 100 to see if it matches the chart.

Doug

I zeroed mine in at 200 and shot steel at 300, 400 and 500.

Pat

[Alaskapopo]

I have a chrono. You can hit 2900 with TAC or 8208 XBR pretty easily.

I'll shoot at 100/200/300/400 again today.

Cool. Personally I have never got Tac to group like I wanted. Never tried 8208 XBR what brand is that powder?

Pat

[boomfab]

I have a chrono. You can hit 2900 with TAC or 8208 XBR pretty easily.

I'll shoot at 100/200/300/400 again today.

Cool. Personally I have never got Tac to group like I wanted. Never tried 8208 XBR what brand is that powder?

Pat

It's an IMR powder. Not the tightest groups I've ever seen with 69's but high velocity is a cinch.

[TruePunisher]

Am I missing something or does the software no longer allow you to choose the 1-6...?

[DBTN]

Am I missing something or does the software no longer allow you to choose the 1-6...?

I also noticed that it is not listed. I looked at the program a couple of weeks ago and it was there. But I have not been able to find the 1-6 listed since then. I would like to know what happened since I have a Z6i ordered.

[caz41]

It has not been there for at least a week. I sent them an email asking about it, but have not received a response yet.

[manderson2228]

Figures that it's not listed anymore, i just ordered mine.. Also anyone else notice the price increase??

[DMAC]

Figures that it's not listed anymore, i just ordered mine.. Also anyone else notice the price increase??

Well that sucks. I'm going to put the Z6 on my 556 for the BRM3G match and I guess I will do without the printout from Swaro and just know my holdovers in mils at 6x.

[rcollier]

I downloaded the program onto my desktop rather than going to the Swaro site every time. It is for the 1-6 BRT, I may be able to email the file if someone is interested. I can try.

[DBTN]

I called technical support two days ago and the guy I spoke with claimed that the program was never up and running for the 1-6x24. He told me this even thought I told him I had seen it on the web site a few weeks ago. He stated that it should be up and running in a few weeks. I am not overly optimistic.

[Alaskapopo]

I downloaded the program onto my desktop rather than going to the Swaro site every time. It is for the 1-6 BRT, I may be able to email the file if someone is interested. I can try.

yes please if you have the program I need it.

Pat