Why does my gun move after pulling the trigger(dry fire)

[B_RAD]

I have a G17RTF2 that have the following mods:

0.25 trigger job

Scherer "-" connector

Wolf competition spring pack.(6lb trigger spring, 4lb reduced power striker spring and reduced power firing pin block spring)

The rest of the gun is stock.

When I dry fire I notice that after the trigger breaks the front of the gun twithces to the right a little. I don't really know how else to explain this. It's not much but I do notice it and it drives me crazy! I don't notice this when using the stock connector in this gun or any of my other Glocks all of which are stock. Also, I did this same mod a while back to another G17 that I had and it did not do this. Also, I can dry fire all my other pistols (1911, S&W 629 etc..) without this happening. I thought this was due to the striker slamming forward but now I'm thinking it's the trigger bar breaking over the connector. I guess my question or questions are:

1)Has anyone else noticed this with a similar set up?

2)Do you think this is due to the "-" connector?

3)Could it be that it didn't do this on my other G17 because no two are alike.

4)Do you think this could affect accuracy no matter how small? I want all the accuracy I can get. I've always thought that any movement could affect accuracy.

5)Finally, If you've noticed this same issue do you know of a solution?

Please refrain from posting any negative comments if you do not agree with these mods. Just looking for helpful insight.

Thanks,

B_RAD

Edited October 17, 2010 by B_RAD

[sigsauerfan]

assuming you dont suffer from this with any other guns owned, questions are ´:

1- is he doing this since day 1 of the mods, or it poped along the break-in ??

2-do you feel something loose/rocking/backlashing next to the trigger break??

...answers to this might provide possible tracks of solutions.

i hope the best for your gun.

[atmar]

afaik this is normal in all glocks.

[JBP55]

Have you considered using a over travel stop to see if it will help?

[B_RAD]

Have you considered using a over travel stop to see if it will help?

I haven't. Do you have any experience with them?

[glockwerkes]

How much play do you have in the slide to frame fit? Check it both side to side and up and down. 99% of the Glocks I've seen exhibit the pre-break "dip". If you carefully watch the rear of the slide, it will actually dip right before the trigger breaks. I believe it is due to the loose fit at the rear frame rails. It's not a fitted and filed 1911. There's a bit a slop, some guns have more than others.

[Greg Bell]

My glocks have a very very subtle "quiver" during dryfire with an empty chamber. If I put a snap cap in they don't do that. Give it a try and let us know.

[Philo_Beddoe]

My M&P also did this. I put the apex parts that reduced the trigger pull to 2.5 pounds and it noticably reduced it.

It seems to be caused by to much over travel and a heavier trigger pull on stock guns makes it worse since you must exert more force to release the striker hence you then push the trigger harder into the frame causing a slight sight disrpution.

watch this video, it explains it pretty good

[SPDGG]

IMHO: As mentioned above;

- Install some sought of "Overtravel" mod/hardware & let us know

fwiw: If you run it "as is", just dry fire/practice.

Edited October 18, 2010 by SPDGG

[kevin c]

My glocks have a very very subtle "quiver" during dryfire with an empty chamber. If I put a snap cap in they don't do that. Give it a try and let us know.

I have noticed the exact same difference, empty chamber vs snap cap or dead primered inert round.

[Lumpy McSoo]

Snap caps and/or letting the action close the last 1/4 inch or so with a little more force seem to work for me. I don't recommend letting the slide completely go free from slide lock without a snap cap (or live round for live fire).

M&Ps and Glocks do this for me. Snap cap solved the problem.

Later, Lumpy.

[jmich]

My glock does the same lighter striker spring snap caps fixed it

[Flexmoney]

When I dryfire...once I had been through the process of learning trigger control (balance a dime on the front sight?)...after that, I would crush on the trigger pretty good. I'd see wobble in my front sight, but I'd challenge my weak hand grip to keep the sight aligned and on target.

[B_RAD]

I bought a G34 and started trading out springs and now I've got a Scherer "-" connector, stock(polished) striker, stock striker spring, stock stiker saftey(un-polished) plunger and spring and stock trigger spring. So the only thing that's not stock is the connector. Problem is gone. I put all the wolf competition springs in my new G34 except the 6# trigger spring(makes for to weak of a reset in this particular gun). Neither gun has does this now. I'm guessing it was the extra tension on the trigger from the 6# spring and that momentum coming back was what was causing this problem. At least for me. I'm thiking that every gun has subtle differences? After all there are mass produced.

By the way, I'm loving the G34 but it feels like it's made out glass now that I'm used to the RTF2 texture on my G17. I've already ordered some grips.

Happy shooting!

B_RAD