Reloading Bench Top - MDF?

[Graham Smith]

Either the search function is not finding it or there's been nothing in the past couple of years on this.

My basement has too many things going on in too little space, so I'm moving the reloading to a spare room. I've spotted some 3/4" 4 x 2' sections of MFD and wondered if anyone else had used this as a bench top. If I use it, I'll probably cover it with some cheap countertop laminate.

Anyone know of any problems with this?

[CZinSC]

Either the search function is not finding it or there's been nothing in the past couple of years on this.

My basement has too many things going on in too little space, so I'm moving the reloading to a spare room. I've spotted some 3/4" 4 x 2' sections of MFD and wondered if anyone else had used this as a bench top. If I use it, I'll probably cover it with some cheap countertop laminate.

Anyone know of any problems with this?

I thought it was called MSB, as opposed to OSB. Either way, that is what I have on my bench. Been reloading on it for 3 months. No issue with the reloader, only problem is it absorbs water like a sponge. So if I have a bottle of water with me, I reload in the garage so it can get hot, i need to put the bottle on something where the sweat from the bottle doesn't cause a stain on the bench. It's more than a stain, since the surface is paper, it absorbs in and causes a bump. If you cover it with laminate, it might be a good idea. I've experimented in one corner with a sealant, seems to be working, just been too lazy to coat the whole surface.

Here is a picture of my bench.

[Too_Slow]

As I recall reading the suggestion is to use two layers (to make it 1 1/2 inches thick) and to coat it thoroughly with urethane to seal it completely to keep water / liquids from soaking in. The reason for using two layers was to make it last longer because it does break down with age.

Brian

[BMartens]

Double it to 1 1/2", seal it completely and protect the edges and it will be extremely solid and should last a long time. As noted above, it will soak up water and oil like a sponge without protection. It will also soak up a lot of polyurethane so plan on multi-coats.

[Avezorak]

I wouldnt use it as screws wont hold very well. Plywood is much more versatile...

[Graham Smith]

Correction for my dyslexia - MDF (medium density fiberboard).

I'm not sure what MSB is, but OSB is oriented strand board (aka chipboard) and is not what I am looking at.

I was under the impression that MDF was relatively resistant to liquids. In either case the plan was to cover it with Masonite or something.

As to screws, I use bolts now that go through an old countertop and thru a 1x3 underneath which spreads out the load.

I'm not overly keen on MSB for a work bench because it would take too much abuse, but I thought it might work for a reloading bench that's not going to get hammered on, gouged, drilled, sawed, burned, or otherwise abused.

[kbeck76]

My bench (reloading, woodworking, etc.) uses 2 layers of MDF and has been in service for 4-5 years without any problem. I covered mine with 1/4" tempered hardboard (screwed down) so that I could replace the top when it becomes too nasty. If you plan on cutting the MDF with a saw I'd recommend doing it outdoors if possible. The biggest problem with MDF in my experience is the incredible amount of dust it produces when cut.

Kevin

[John Heiter]

Random question but if MDF is "Medium Density" has anyone ever seen "High Density"? I've worked with sheets of 3/4" MDF and that's some heavy stuff.

I agree with everyone saying double the thickness. I would laminate the two layers together with glue to really increase the strength. Avezorak is right that screws won't hold as well in it, but if you use through bolts and washers you'll never have any problems out of it. You can spray it with a good lacquer paint to seal it but I would lean more to a formica or masonite top.

[Graham Smith]

Random question but if MDF is "Medium Density" has anyone ever seen "High Density"?

Also known as hardboard. Often found in 1/4" thickness with one side smooth and the other side rough (dark brown). That's what I think Kevin is referring to as a top material. Good idea that.

[Jim Norman]

Check your local Costco. They have (had) 24" x 96" 1-1/2" thick laminated bench tops with steel legs for about $200.00

I put one in my loading room in the basement and took my presses off the 3-0 deep work bench I had been using in order to get more usable space.

I would go this route before I'd use MDO or other. If I were to build a bench, I would probably use 2 x 4's for the top and cover them with a sheet of 1/4" tempered hardboard.

Jim

[Jeff Matzka]

You could drive screws down through it into the the support structure of the table (2x4 or 2x6, whatever), then cover the surface with laminate and you'll never see the screws. Just make sure to counter-sink the screw heads slightly below the surface of the tabletop, so that there are no bumps in the laminate. I would definitely use two layers of the MDF though - for strength, as others have said.

Just a thought - when I made my bench, I used a solid core door for the top. It worked great. I made it 12 years ago, and it's survived 4 moves. I'm sure it's less expensive to go with the MDF, though. Plus, you wouldn't have to cut it down much to fit your space.

[Flexmoney]

I used MDF. It is OK. I'd probably look for a different material if doing it again.

[PBA2]

Two layers for sure. Laminate would be a nice bonus. Reloader will have to be bolted all the way through with washers underneath.

[raz-0]

I personally like 3/4" mdf, 3 layers glued and screwed to each other being sure to leave space  for drilling mounting holes. Then I bolt stuff to it through the whole thickness.  

MDF and water aren't too friendly, but reloading isn't exactly something you do wet.  MDF and oil seem to be less of a problem, it just discolors the MDF as far as I can tell. 

[rvb]

I used 2 layers of 3/4" melamine.

quite stain resistant, doesn't chip easily, oil/powder/etc cleans up easily.

Bottom layer is screwed to bench, top layer is glued/screwed from the bottom side (smooth top surface, no screws).

pics:

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=106768&st=0&p=1214231&hl=room&fromsearch=1entry1214231

-rvb

Edited August 10, 2010 by rvb

[Chills1994]

it seems like all of our reconstituted wood products (basically just saw dust mixed with glue) like to creep or sag under load, so you need at least a ledger board on the front edge to keep the top from bowing over time.

iirc, a sheet of MDF is actually 49"X97" and weighs over 110 pounds.

if you went with the three layers idea, you could have the guys at lowe's or home depot rip the full sheet down on their panel saw into 3, 16" wide pieces. it would make it a lot easier to get home in a car if you don't have a truck....and you won't strain your back lifting and moving the heavy unwieldey full sheet.

the other nice thing about the panel saws at lowe's or home depot is that they are already equipped with dust collection.

+1 to the advice of coating it with polyurethane. normally on case pieces made out of plywood, I will take a lambswool applicator normally meant for wooden floors to a full sheet set across a pair of saw horses....then I rip it down after the 3rd coat of poly has dried on each side. I just pour the poly 50/50 with mineral spirits for the first two coats into a paint pan/tray, and dip the lambswool applicator into that.

[Graham Smith]

I didn't want to get a whole new workbench topic going, but thanks for the ideas. Only reason this came up is someone I know has a couple 2x4' 3/4 MDF pieces left over from a project. I figured I could build a 2x8' frame with some horizontal supports out of some 2x3' stock I have and use some 1x4' slats for a bottom shelf. But, if I need to double the thickness of MDF, then I might as well get a sheet of 3/4" plywood because it'll end up being about the same cost.

[Avezorak]

If you already have access to the material, plan on laminating it and will thru-bolt your accessories down. I say do it! I just wouldnt purchase it instead of plywood...

[Chills1994]

I am ASSuming that whatever bench you are building that it will at least have two legs in the front. that horizontal piece of wood at the top of the two legs...the apron...or the ledger ...that joins the two legs together up top....

well...if that is close enough to the edge of your single layer of MDF top and your press bolts are far enough back to be on the inside of the frame (or the backside of the apron) ....then yeah a single layer of MDF will be just fine.

all the weight of the press and the force applied to working the press gets transferred directly to that apron and then directly to the legs.

[Graham Smith]

I am ASSuming that whatever bench you are building that it will at least have two legs in the front. that horizontal piece of wood at the top of the two legs...the apron...or the ledger ...that joins the two legs together up top....

Pretty much. The layout I'm going to use regardless of the top material is a 2x3 frame with 2x4 corner legs plus a couple legs along the front and the whole frame lag screwed to the wall studs for the back support. The top will sit flush with the outside edge of the 2x3 so that the front end of the press can be lag screwed directly into the 2x3 and the rear bolted to a piece of 1x2 underneath the top. Ugly but functional.

What the heck, I can try it and if it doesn't work out I can always replace it with something else. But I've got to get this stuff out of the basement.

Edited August 10, 2010 by Graham Smith

[BMartens]

You'll be fine with just 3/4" top. Of course 1 1/2" is better but, your frame will make the difference. MDF is hard and solid and as long as you don't have more than 2" of overhang it will do anything you want it to do. I use the 2x3 stuff all the time for benches, shelving and braces and like it better than 2x4's.

[rkjeepxj]

I used 2x4's to build a perimeter frame and then put cross braces every 24" on center. Then I topped it with 2x10's. Makes one hell of a sturdy bench and there's plenty of meat there to bolt, screw, clamp anything you ever wanted to the bench.

I've got a RCBS Rockchucker, Dillon 550, bolted down and 4 holes with star nuts in them to bolt down the MEC loaders (12 or 20ga) when I need one, but when I don't I simply unscrew it and they slide it out of the way.