Used Open Gun

[JT Johnson]

Hi,

This weekend I may be looking at a used open. From a previous post i know the ideal price range of an open gun, mags, accessories is anywhere from 1500-1750.

Burkett's website recommend checking for comp errosion in the first port and to be sure the slide is not hitting the comp.

The gun I'm looking at has 50,000 on the frame and 5000 on the barrel/slide. I heard SV frames last a LONG time an average barrel life should be about 50k rounds.

I know I need to see how the brass is ejecting from the gun, test for accuracy, and I know basic functions check. Any other tips/trick for open guns that would be helpful?

Thanks!

Josh

[shred]

Check scope-mount tightness (try and wiggle it back and forth-- put a bit of pressure onto it), dot brightness (could be batteries, could be gook) and roundness.

Shoot weak-handed, limp-wristed and such to see what it does. See if you can get an idea of it's operational history (breakage, jamming) from third-parties.

[L9X25]

In addition to what Shred said, you can check the barrel to slide and slide to frame fit for slop. There is crude way to check both the slide and barrel fit by trying to wiggle the comp up and down (and side to side) with one hand while holing the frame in the usual shooting grip. Any looseness is an indication of wear or poorly fitted parts. A gun can still be accurate while loose (if it cycles consistently) but a recently rebuilt gun should be tight if properly fit.

If all else fails have a local gunsmith or experienced buddy have a look at it ... 4 or 6 eyes (and hands) are usually better than 2.

Leo

[Loves2Shoot]

I would highly recommend having a gunsmith check it out. I have a friend who know how a gun should be fit and it is worth the time and $ to make sure you aren't getting something you'll regret later. The slide frame to fit is more important on an open gun since the sight is mounted to the frame not the slide. If it moves much at all it could have problems at long distances. Matt Burkett has a list of tips on his website to I think. Good luck and welcome to the "dark side."

[warpspeed]

Josh,

I once bought a used open gun. I am fortunate to shoot with a GM who knows a thing or two about how an IPSC gun should be. The particular gun I looked at, a subsequently bought, had a few issues but I bought it knowing what they were.

Loves2shoot is dead on about having a qualified 'smith look at it. If the seller isn't willing to let you have someone check it out, he probably has something to hide.

[JT Johnson]

Thanks for all the replies. I wish there was a IPSC/1911 gunsmith in champaign il.

I'll be sure to check tight barrel lockup and frame-to-slide fit.

Josh

[warpspeed]

One thing I do remember about checking out a used pistol:

Rack the slide so the hammer is cocked, engage the thumb safety, pull the trigger. The hammer should not fall. (duh?) Now disengage the thumb safety. The hammer should not fall. If it does either time, something is wrong.

[blkbrd]

JT- First Take a look at Wil Schuemann's websight, he has alot of great information on pistol timing, the books on 1911's vol. one and "two" by Jerry Kuhnhausen will supply you with a great base for 1911 fit and function.

If you can find a nice S-I open gun package for 15-17 you are doing great, don't forget the USPSA forums or any large matches in the near future.

Don't rush, find exactly what you want or have someone like Benny Hill build it for you.

[sfinney]

My best advice for buying a used open gun is to buy one from a GM or M that used it last season..... if they are shooting at that level, you can be pretty sure the gun runs fairly decent. And buying from someone you know always helps.... who put the gun together intially can be important as well.

I've had good luck with my used IPSC guns, but you have to be very picky.... there is a LOT of junk out there.

[eric nielsen]

My pet peeve is how the comp attaches to the barrel and how long will it stay there where it belongs. My dream barrel/comp is an sti competitor tru-bor: all one piece.

2nd place in staying on right is a 5.5 inch bull barrel with screw threads on the last .5 inch. My nightmare barrel is 3 or more pieces: barrel, cone, and comp - all glued, no setscrews/recesses to back them up.

I've had like 5 tournaments with 3 compguns, where one of my comps started to move & deflect the bullets - and miss targets altogether beyond 20 yards - AT the match.

Like they said, bore & comp erosion is something to look at. While you have the barrel/comp OUT of the slide, hold it up and look thru the muzzle, breech up to the light. Does everything look nice & concentric to your eyes?? What about to those other pairs of eyes that are helping you??

If you can have a smith or knowledgeable shooter do the Schueman Timing Test on that gun, do it. If it fails, it means a link or locking lug is going to break off your gun eventually. And jam a lot until then. If it passes the test -

[joshua]

Once all the parts fit test and function test is done my advice is to actually strip the gun down, I mean all the way down. Take out all the parts, this is the only way you can tell how worn the parts are and you can actually try to pick up hair line cracks on the frame, slide and barrel. That's is if the owner will let you now. During the era of heavy red dot scopes, I've seen dust covers on frames having cracks where the screw holes are. The are just too much to mention on what to check. I suppose it's like buying a used car. Goodluck buddy. josh

[Andrew B]

http://usgi1911.tripod.com/function/

http://usgi1911.tripod.com/used1911/

These may be of help