Lee Pro 1000 Tip & Tricks

[hobobluz]

I was having problems with crooked primers blocking seating. Every tenth or 15th round would get hung up. I would stop remove the primer and continue. I kept adjusting the timeing to no avail, so I decided to take the machine apart to look for a mechanical problem. The only thing I could see was the bottom of the shell plate was dry as a bone. I could see where it was actually dragging. Now I just greased this thing 3 months ago and I was quite surprised how dry it was. Sooo, I greased it real well, both mating surfaces, and reassembled and retimed. Then I knocked off 100 rounds with no problem. Go figure.

I remember on a post where someone had said that one of the fingers was so tight against the brass that it slowed down the timeing. He readjusted the finger and that cured his problem. This seems to be a similar situation. The shell plate would drag due to lack of lubricant, and cause timeing to retard/advance.

Maybe this could be another reason for crooked primers? By the way, I was using a lithium grease. Next time I take it apart I think I will try lubriplate.

How often do you guys grease your machines and what do you use?

[chrispy]

New here and it seems that threr are alot of priming problems. I was having problems with my Pro and decided to watch Lee's set up videos, that helped set the machine up and got it running just about perfect. except the priming system. So being a tinker, I thought about what I've read. Most of the problems are with bridging. I noticed that the rod that does the shaking didnt do a good job. Seeing that it would be a pain to try and bend or replace I came up with a solution that works very well. I can get primers to feed down to about the last 10-15 in the slide with out trouble of jams.

So here is my solution; get a piece of #10 electrical wire. You'll need about 2", cut the jacket about 1" and pull it of of the wire core. Then just take the jacket piece and slip it over the shaker rod. You will not believe how well this works.

Hope this resolves your priming issues, all but eliminated mine.

[hobobluz]

That is a great and novel idea. I will give it a try.

How do you grease your machine?

[Chucker]

How do you grease your machine?

Hobobluz, for me (since I don't know any better) I try to stay away from most greases and lubricants on the equipment. I started using Hornady One-Shot case lube on the twist rod and a little under the shell plate because I was afraid of grease or oil migration getting onto the cases and possibly deactivating primers or powder. Remote possibility I'm sure but I started thinking about it when I noticed some cases tipping over occasionally and hitting the twist rod or laying on the shell plate.

[hobobluz]

Thanks for the response Chucker. Lee does recommend greasing the rod, shaft and shellplate. I just don't remember what they recomnend.

I got the 10 gauge sleeve on the shaker "rod". I've cycled it a lot and notice it seems to want to back off of the "rod", although after a dozen cycles it didn't come completely off. Does your want to slip off or did you glue it in some way?

[Raymond1975]

Thanks Chrispy,

The tip about the electrical wire jacket over the shaker rod works great no more problem. thumbs up.

[Tomcat104]

Great thread, I am slowly getting my Pro 1000 into shape. I didn't realize that the metal rod sticking through the primer trough was supposed to rub on the support rail! I will have to readjust mine and see how much of a difference it makes.

Craig

Yeah, the pin rubs against that grooved back post and acts as a shaker for the primer tray / trough. Also, I suggest never putting more than 100 primers in the tray at one time (I do not even put that many in). The more weight, the bigger chance of a jamb where the primers enter the trough.

I fill the primer tray, case feeder and bullet feeder with the same number of conponents. Why? Well, when I see the bullet feeder grab the last bullet I know it is time to fill everything up, and check powder level. This prevents me from running out of primers, and that is the last thing you want to happen.

Some feel the priming system, on this press, is flawed / unreliable. I contend that to simply not true. If one allows the primer level to get half way down the trough the system will fail. At that point there is not enough weight to push a primer onto the priming pin. This, in my opinion, is operator error not system faliure. I have loaded as many as 500 rounds without a single priming system faliure.

Reshoot,

I've had my Pro1000 for a couple of months now and reading this forum I think I need some help.

My primers do not "flow" through my primer trough very well. I have cleaned it thoroughly with pipe cleaners and/or Q-Tips and neither seems to help. How do I go about adjusting the primer feeder pin? That may be part of my problem. Do I need to "lubricate" or wax the plastic trough? Is it possible I just got a bad trough? My problem has been the same since I pulled the press out of the box.

I love the forum, I've solved 80% of my problems (mostly set-up) by info from here. Keep up the good work.

Tomcat_104

[Reshoot]

Great thread, I am slowly getting my Pro 1000 into shape. I didn't realize that the metal rod sticking through the primer trough was supposed to rub on the support rail! I will have to readjust mine and see how much of a difference it makes.

Craig

Yeah, the pin rubs against that grooved back post and acts as a shaker for the primer tray / trough. Also, I suggest never putting more than 100 primers in the tray at one time (I do not even put that many in). The more weight, the bigger chance of a jamb where the primers enter the trough.

I fill the primer tray, case feeder and bullet feeder with the same number of conponents. Why? Well, when I see the bullet feeder grab the last bullet I know it is time to fill everything up, and check powder level. This prevents me from running out of primers, and that is the last thing you want to happen.

Some feel the priming system, on this press, is flawed / unreliable. I contend that to simply not true. If one allows the primer level to get half way down the trough the system will fail. At that point there is not enough weight to push a primer onto the priming pin. This, in my opinion, is operator error not system faliure. I have loaded as many as 500 rounds without a single priming system faliure.

Reshoot,

I've had my Pro1000 for a couple of months now and reading this forum I think I need some help.

My primers do not "flow" through my primer trough very well. I have cleaned it thoroughly with pipe cleaners and/or Q-Tips and neither seems to help. How do I go about adjusting the primer feeder pin? That may be part of my problem. Do I need to "lubricate" or wax the plastic trough? Is it possible I just got a bad trough? My problem has been the same since I pulled the press out of the box.

I love the forum, I've solved 80% of my problems (mostly set-up) by info from here. Keep up the good work.

Tomcat_104

I would either (1) remove the trough, seperate the two halves and remove any burrs or rough edges or (2) call Lee and ask them to replace a defective part. I would avoid any type of lubricant, personally. I blow mine out with compressed air occasionally.

[RockinRiley]

So does anyone prime off press? I am considering to use Tula for price and would like to prime off press. If off press do you remove the pin that presses the primer? Seems like the right thing to do just so you do not press it in further. Oh I am talking pro 1000 9mm set up.

Edited January 20, 2013 by RockinRiley

[gerritm]

Thanks Chrispy,

The tip about the electrical wire jacket over the shaker rod works great no more problem. thumbs up.

Can you show a picture or schematic of this part? Not sure what the shaker rod is. I have the same problem with mine hanging up and inserting the primers crooked every 10 or so.

Thanks,gerritm

[Raymond1975]

Gerritm,

The requested photo, its the yellow/green isolation.

[gerritm]

Gerritm,

The requested photo, its the yellow/green isolation.

Thanks,

gerritm

[Chip_E]

WifEy wins....

Came home one day and she'd broken the shell plate holder (I think the powder through walked it's way far enough to start putting uneven pressure on the plate). Lee said they'd repair it....when they got more parts in. With the crazy political environment and everyone buying up everything firearm and reloading related...it's pretty hard to find ANYTHING. A bud told me they might know a dealer with a Dillon 650 in stock...and they did. So I've gone over to the BLUE SIDE. We did find a replacement shell plate holder, and overhauled the old parts on the Lee...and she's working great again. That said, wifEy can easily output twice as much ammo on the 650 as I can on the 1K. Even though I have the bullet feeder and case collator on the Lee, I keep having to clean out powder residue in the priming system to keep it going. The Dillion priming system is a bit more bullet-proof when it comes to powder in the system. Blue and Red are currently living in harmony, but Red isn't getting as much love these days.

[sfo6jxd]

I just recieved and setup my Lee Pro 1000 and had a problem right away. I searched this board and did not see a solution. I installed the case feeder plate as instructed, hooked up the z bar, installed the 4 tubes and collater. problem is, the cases don't drop down into the case feeder base like they are supposed to unless I slam the lever down very hard. If I don't, the lip of the head stickes on the case feeder onb the upstroke. It is adjusted as close to the turret ring as possible, and about a dimes clearance between the case the the top af a dropped cartridge. This, from what I see is the first of many problems. One at a time, I guess. Any help is much appreciated. Thx

[RePete]

Check the position of the casefeeder base, it needs to be almost touching the shell plate carrier.

[ahamay79]

Where do you get the spring to replace the chain? I keep seeing chains being used but no one gives the length and/or tension of the spring.

Edited July 11, 2013 by ahamay79

[Chuckie45]

My small pistol primers feed flawlessly, but when I change over to my large primer set up for .45 I have serious problems. What I've discovered, is that the primer is jumping on to the seating post as the tray is jasseled on the way up. Then the primer sometimes gets flipped or caught on the shell plate when the shell plate spins on the way down. I assess that the seating post needs to set higher until trigger by the next round. Anyone having this issue, or know a reliable way to fix?

[AlphaShot]

Calls Shots, your last post sounds like a good fix. I have a Dillon 650 setup for 9mm and S7W 40 but wanted something to pound out 45 ACP and found the Lee Pro 650 cost less than the parts to load 45 ACP on my Dillon so I bought one. Although I did have learning curve with the Dillon Press I have not had any luck with the Lee. THe primer issue has just got the best of me.

HAS ANYONE OUT THERE FOUND A SPECIFIC BRAND OF LARGE PISTOL PRIMER THAT WORKS BETTER THAN THE OTHERS?

[RammerJammer]

Ok, i read the thread and bought one. I used all the tips setting her up and it runs great, unless you want powder in every round. Every 15th rd or so I get a 1.2gn charge. I'm using titegroup and it will drop consitantly for several rounds and for the next round. I can't figure this out.

[Chuckie45]

RammerJammer, Do you have the older powder measure with the return chain connected to the shell plate area, or the newer one with the return spring on the powder measure? I found that with the new one it won't return properly if the screws where too tight. Good luck.

[tbrtt1]

So I am a relatively new member of the Lee Pro 1000 club. I thought I would share my experience as well. I load only 9mm with it and shoot it out of a Glock 34 for IDPA and related activities.

IMHO there are 3 things that anyone who owns this press must do:

1-Go to the Lee website and watch the Pro 1000 help videos. There is no substitute for going to the actual source. I actually watched the vids (about a minute each) as I set up the press.

2-Read this entire thread. It may take a couple of hours but it is well worth reading. I have seen a couple of questions that are actually answered in this thread. Many thanks to Reshoot for starting this thread and making major contributions to it.

3-Zip ties!!!! This has been the single best mod I have done and it costs next to nothing. As I see it the biggest problem is the primer feed system and the reason is that it needs to be shaken to ensure proper flow. That is why there are indentations in the post for the thin rod on the primer shoot to rub against. However, it just isn't enough. So, put a small zip tie on the post and you will get more shake and shimmy to the primer feed mechanism. Got that tip from online research and it is here in this thread as well. Believe it or not, primer feeding is the least problematic aspect of my press. Winchester, CCI, Remington, all feed well.

A few other things that will help (and they have all been mentioned here, so I am just reiterating and validating them):

*A couple zip ties to keep the primer feed shoot clamped together is useful.

*Q-tips and pipe cleaners are very useful tools. The Q-tip trick is in this thread. Easily clears the primer shoot. Pipe cleaners can be used for clearing dust and debris from the shoot.

*Breaking it down and cleaning it made a big difference. I started loading on it and after several hundred rounds decided to learn how to break it down and clean it. For whatever reason, she ran like a champ after that. Good vids on youtube by CowboyT on the full breakdown. Really easy to do once you do it once.

*I never had luck with the micro adjustable charge bar. The discs throw great. The thing I like about the discs is once you find a load that works, it literally takes less than 2 minutes to get your powder throws going. For each load recipe I notate which disc hole size is used and I go right to it, throw 5 or so charges to be sure she is metering well and off I go. I am getting good consistency with the discs =/- .1 grain for most everything except larger flake stuff like 700X. One mod for the discs that I have seen somewhere online is to thread a screw through the outside of the disc hole and screw in the screw to take some of the volume out of the hole so you can make smaller adjustments as needed. I haven't done this as I have been able to find good loads with the discs as they are, sometimes making small adjustments in my OAL if the charge seems light when I shoot. I load long on the OALs to start so I have wiggle room if needed there.

*I have a small ShopVac in my loading work area that I use with some small attachments that allow me to suck out loose stray powder around the press. I have even had a case not get the primer fed and thrown the powder charge with powder ending up all over the primer feed area and shell plate

which usually means major stoppage to clean it up so it doesn't clog and screw up the primer feeding. I vac that stuff right up with the primers still in the shoot and in seconds I am cranking out ammo again.

*Lube the cases! There really is no reason not to do so. Carbide or otherwise, it makes it a lot easier. Hornady 1-Shot is great stuff and I don't wipe it off after loading. This process is just too easy not to do and makes everything run smoother. Much smoother. Never had a stuck case and it helps by not shaking the press so much which I find can cause case feeding problems.

And just a couple of basic stats I recently put together time-wise with this press. I plan to do a few more next time I remember to time myself when loading a large amount.

*From bare press to loading ammo is about 9 mins. Thats adjusting OAL, which I do first, setting up the powder charge (again knowing which disc to use makes this process very quick and easy-the charge bar has to be adjusted for each recipe which is PITA IMHO), Filling primer tray and and shoot, lubing the cases and putting them in the collator.

*I've timed 100 round sessions and average 8-10 mins after setup as mentioned above. I don't expect this to extrapolate linearly as there will need to be refilling of primers and cases, etc. I haven't timed a large batch but I plan to. I take my time but I imaging being able to crank out adequate amounts of ammo with this press.

*I have been shooting groups with various load recipes with various powders, primers and bullet combinations using a Pistolero and shooting at 25 feet. I am getting good sub 2 inch groups from most of my bullet/powder combinations (I realize this is not adequate for Bullseye competition but for my purposes at this time is sufficient). In other words, this press seems capable of making relatively accurate ammo for IDPA/USPSA type practical shooting. I find there is also a learning curve to shooting off of a rest. I highly recommend this (I know BE does too) for assessing your trigger control and other aspects of your shooting technique. It has helped my off hand shooting.

Overall, for the money the Pro1000 is an extremely feature-rich press. It may not be for everyone but if you don't mind a little tinkering it is a good bargain.

[Reshoot]

So I am a relatively new member of the Lee Pro 1000 club. I thought I would share my experience as well. I load only 9mm with it and shoot it out of a Glock 34 for IDPA and related activities.

IMHO there are 3 things that anyone who owns this press must do:

1-Go to the Lee website and watch the Pro 1000 help videos. There is no substitute for going to the actual source. I actually watched the vids (about a minute each) as I set up the press.

2-Read this entire thread. It may take a couple of hours but it is well worth reading. I have seen a couple of questions that are actually answered in this thread. Many thanks to Reshoot for starting this thread and making major contributions to it.

3-Zip ties!!!! This has been the single best mod I have done and it costs next to nothing. As I see it the biggest problem is the primer feed system and the reason is that it needs to be shaken to ensure proper flow. That is why there are indentations in the post for the thin rod on the primer shoot to rub against. However, it just isn't enough. So, put a small zip tie on the post and you will get more shake and shimmy to the primer feed mechanism. Got that tip from online research and it is here in this thread as well. Believe it or not, primer feeding is the least problematic aspect of my press. Winchester, CCI, Remington, all feed well.

A few other things that will help (and they have all been mentioned here, so I am just reiterating and validating them):

*A couple zip ties to keep the primer feed shoot clamped together is useful.

*Q-tips and pipe cleaners are very useful tools. The Q-tip trick is in this thread. Easily clears the primer shoot. Pipe cleaners can be used for clearing dust and debris from the shoot.

*Breaking it down and cleaning it made a big difference. I started loading on it and after several hundred rounds decided to learn how to break it down and clean it. For whatever reason, she ran like a champ after that. Good vids on youtube by CowboyT on the full breakdown. Really easy to do once you do it once.

*I never had luck with the micro adjustable charge bar. The discs throw great. The thing I like about the discs is once you find a load that works, it literally takes less than 2 minutes to get your powder throws going. For each load recipe I notate which disc hole size is used and I go right to it, throw 5 or so charges to be sure she is metering well and off I go. I am getting good consistency with the discs =/- .1 grain for most everything except larger flake stuff like 700X. One mod for the discs that I have seen somewhere online is to thread a screw through the outside of the disc hole and screw in the screw to take some of the volume out of the hole so you can make smaller adjustments as needed. I haven't done this as I have been able to find good loads with the discs as they are, sometimes making small adjustments in my OAL if the charge seems light when I shoot. I load long on the OALs to start so I have wiggle room if needed there.

*I have a small ShopVac in my loading work area that I use with some small attachments that allow me to suck out loose stray powder around the press. I have even had a case not get the primer fed and thrown the powder charge with powder ending up all over the primer feed area and shell plate

which usually means major stoppage to clean it up so it doesn't clog and screw up the primer feeding. I vac that stuff right up with the primers still in the shoot and in seconds I am cranking out ammo again.

*Lube the cases! There really is no reason not to do so. Carbide or otherwise, it makes it a lot easier. Hornady 1-Shot is great stuff and I don't wipe it off after loading. This process is just too easy not to do and makes everything run smoother. Much smoother. Never had a stuck case and it helps by not shaking the press so much which I find can cause case feeding problems.

And just a couple of basic stats I recently put together time-wise with this press. I plan to do a few more next time I remember to time myself when loading a large amount.

*From bare press to loading ammo is about 9 mins. Thats adjusting OAL, which I do first, setting up the powder charge (again knowing which disc to use makes this process very quick and easy-the charge bar has to be adjusted for each recipe which is PITA IMHO), Filling primer tray and and shoot, lubing the cases and putting them in the collator.

*I've timed 100 round sessions and average 8-10 mins after setup as mentioned above. I don't expect this to extrapolate linearly as there will need to be refilling of primers and cases, etc. I haven't timed a large batch but I plan to. I take my time but I imaging being able to crank out adequate amounts of ammo with this press.

*I have been shooting groups with various load recipes with various powders, primers and bullet combinations using a Pistolero and shooting at 25 feet. I am getting good sub 2 inch groups from most of my bullet/powder combinations (I realize this is not adequate for Bullseye competition but for my purposes at this time is sufficient). In other words, this press seems capable of making relatively accurate ammo for IDPA/USPSA type practical shooting. I find there is also a learning curve to shooting off of a rest. I highly recommend this (I know BE does too) for assessing your trigger control and other aspects of your shooting technique. It has helped my off hand shooting.

Overall, for the money the Pro1000 is an extremely feature-rich press. It may not be for everyone but if you don't mind a little tinkering it is a good bargain.

Like you, the priming systems on my Pro 1000's are the most trouble free part of the press. On the rare occasion when I have a priming issue, it has always turned out to be my fault.

[wamcei]

Great info here just got the press

[sigep1967]

Does anyone else have this problem? I load 45 and 9 on y press the 9mm case feed is great have no problems but on the 45 when a tube gets close to empty the case will jump out just far enough to catch on the top plate on up stroke. I have adjusted it up and down but have never got it not do this.

[copecowboy22]

Mine did that. I just watched it and put my finger to block it from doing that.

Then I got a 650!