Chucker

Same. 18.5". Let's take this to email if you'd like to pursue this further. chucker45(at)att.net In the mean time, still open to suggestions.

Hey guys, I've got an older M1 Super 90 Tactical. It has rifle sights mounted directly on the barrel. The only problem I'm having is that I can't get my face down on the stock get sight alignment. I've got to really force my cheek down onto the comb of the pistol grip stock because the sights are so low. What are my options? I was thinking about trying to get a set of ghost rings mounted up but that would probably mean a new barrel. I tried mounting a Mesa Urbino stock mistakenly thinking that it had a lower drop. Nope. Anyone make a bolt on solution? Thanks.

As for the article, I think a glossary of their offerings AND and explaination of the features would be good (ie: HP - is that 'hollow point' or 'heavy plated'). Explaination of the features would help clarify for example what the concave base was designed for. That stuff aside, I have definitely had a poor lot of bullets from them. Only had this happen once and it drove me batty blaming everything under the sun except for the bullet. This was using 115gr 9mm RN. Never had an issue for years loading 230 gr .45 RN from them. Never! Starting loading 9mm and got into my 2nd batch ordered from them and it went worse than bad, similar to KTKlaus' experience above....maybe a bit worse. I was getting 24" groups at 25 yds. That was a lot of 1500 bullets down the drain.... Fast forward to today, I tried Xtreme's 124 gr HPCB and am getting wonderful (for me) accuracy. I average 3" at 25 yds from my stock FS M&P 9. I suspect something may have changed in the manufacturing process or raw materials during the time I ordered the 115's. This was at the time of the big shortages and everything was out of stock. Cautiously optimistic that they've put the bad batches behind them. I still continue to have good luck with the .45's.

Thanks guys. Never realized that there was enough difference between the two to make a difference. I'll get both then.

Hey guys, what's the difference between the #1 (308 win, etc) and the #45 (45acp) shellplates? Why are there 2 different plates for these? Also, is "Nova Tool" a viable option for Hornady LNL plates or should I just stick with Hornady?

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=176172 I posted this not too long ago. Sort of what you mathed out combined with others chrono results:

Ha! Shows you how much I know. I actually thought the standard deviations looked great!

Hey guys, There seems to be very little data out there on this powder so I'm throwing up my initial results. I've never used this powder before. Observations: I was very surprised how well it metered considering it is a coarse stick type powder (at least compared to TAC which I am more familiar with). For me it metered just as well as TAC. It seems you can get higher velocities out of this powder for a given charge with less pressure. I was using case deformation and primer flattening to determine the pressure observation but I know that's not scientific nor absolute. Also, I was using Wolf's harder 5.56 primers so that may have something to do with it. Samples sizes are small but the SD's were very low from my experience. Other details: 62 gr FMJ Mixed brass Wolf 5.56 primers 2.25" OAL Lee Factory crimp 64 F, 53% RH, partly cloudy 23.0 gr AR Comp, out of 16" bbl: 2826 2869 2845 2842 2849 2831 2810 23.7 gr AR Comp, 16" bbl: 2904 2935 2941 2926 2923 2902 2923 2909 2924 2888 24.4 gr AR Comp, 16" bbl: * 3011 3031 3026 2995 3019 3012 3047 3009 3002 3017 * - I got one flattened primer and a slight bulge at the bottom of my first case (3011 fps reading). I almost decided not to continue but I fired another one and didn't get any bulging or flattening and the rest were the same. Regardless, due to the high velocities and the fact I did see one case with pressure signs, I would probably NOT select 24.4 gr as a go to load. I am not an accuracy guy and I load for bulk practice but the 23.0 gr load gave me the 'best' accuracy out of the three loadings out of my rifle (AR type, 16" midlength). It was interesting to me to see the resulting velocities from such relatively light charges. For reference, I would have to throw 25+ grains of TAC to get around 2800 fps out of the same barrel. This may be a common phenomina for those more experienced but it was interesting to me.

RCBS Rock Chucker for resizing/decapping. All remaining steps are performed on a progressive.

FOUND ROOT CAUSE! It was NOT the crimp. I tried backing out the resizing die until I got another .001" clearance on the OD of the empty cases. I can get roughly 5" groups with 115 gr plated now (as opposed to 24" groups) at 25 yds. Essentially the resized taper was squeezing the bullets down and affecting accuracy just like a final crimp would. I had forgotten that 9mm is a TAPERED cartridge. Through all this I'd found that you can destroy a plated bullet even without cutting through the plating.

.378" crimp Sorry guys. Typo. Justsomeguy got me thinking. While it's probably not the crimp itself, it might be the full length resizing die adjusted down too far giving me too much taper. The pulled bullets looked visually brand new and don't show any crimp lines. However, I measured them and came up with .354". Originally they measured .355" so I am squeezing them down but not from crimping (at .378"). Some of my loaded rounds exhibit a bulge where the seated bullet pushed the casing wall out.

SOLVED! I kept everything the same but I replaced the plated with 124 gr FMJ from Precision Delta. I also verified that my crimp was actually .368", not .380" as stated orginially. RESULTS: Groups went from 24+ inches at 25 yds down to about 5" ave. Accuracy went from 'catastrophic' to 'acceptable'. Final Notes: I probably got a bad batch of 115's HOWEVER, I tried a small sample of Xtreme 124 gr RN from a friend and they flung all over the place also. Bad batch, finicky, or whatever, I can't waste any more time with this. I am still open to the idea that there may be one subtle variable that I am not accounting for but I haven't been able to figure it out. But why should I if jacketed is so much more robust? That's it. Thanks for all of the suggestions and ideas guys. For those running plated successfully - My tip 'o the hat to you. (Actually Xtreme 230 gr RN has been running fine for years for me....go figure......).

Guys, thanks for the responses so far. I've got a bit of this 115 gr plated on hand so ideally I would like to solve this. My accuracy standards are relatively low but I just don't want 'catastrophic' accuracy like I'm experiencing. I did notice some tumbling/yaw from my original load by looking closely at the holes in the paper so that's why I decided to decrease the powder charge. I'm not cutting the plating with crimping so I assumed I must have been driving the bullets too fast. I'm going to try a couple of ideas from this thread. Please keep the info coming. At this point I have to start trying things a little 'outside the box' for me.

Are you using Bullseye as well? How fast are you pushing these loads? What pistol are these coming out of? Interesting. So you've found that OAL is a major contributor to accuracy? How fast are you pushing those 115's?

I need some help guys. I'm trying to get a load that will at least hit paper at 25 yds. I'm getting WILD accuracy from my reloads out of a stock Gen 2 G 19 (like 2 FOOT groups, yes that's feet and not inches at 25 yards). Shot spread is all over; high, low, left, and right. Here is what I started out with: 115 gr Xtreme plated 4.7 gr Bullseye (yeah, I know) 1.135" OAL 0.380" taper 'crimp' Mixed brass CCI SPP 1130 fps ave Here is what I tried so far in chronological order: 1) Powder sloshing out of the cases during reloading (on a progressive) - I slowed down the shell plate by hand and made sure there was no grain spillage. Still bad accuracy. 2) Inpsect for over crimp - I pulled 20 bullets. There is not even a witness line let alone cutting marks into the plating. ALL bullets look brand new and can be loaded again. 3) Cleaned barrel - Used copper solvent. Barrel wasn't that dirty to begin with. Still bad accuraccy. 4) Installed new barrel - I bought a brand new KKM drop in barrel since I read that plated bullets and polygonal rifling don't play together well sometimes. Acts just like the stock barrel. Bad accuracy. 5) Changed powder charge - Since Bullseye is fast on the burn chart, I tried 4.1 gr and 4.4 gr Bullseye. 4.1 works o.k. but I get the occasional 8" flyer. Brass just barely gets tossed out of the ejection port. 4.4 gr has horrible accuracy. 6) Changed powder - I tried throwing 4.5 gr W231 since I heard so many people having good luck with it. Worse than wild accuracy. A couple of rounds wouldn't even hit the paper (NRA B-25 target, 25 yds). At this point I think it's the projectile. Any recommendations? I'd be happy with 5" groups at 25. Any chance of staying with plated? Maybe another manufacturer? Thanks!

How do you grease your machine? Hobobluz, for me (since I don't know any better) I try to stay away from most greases and lubricants on the equipment. I started using Hornady One-Shot case lube on the twist rod and a little under the shell plate because I was afraid of grease or oil migration getting onto the cases and possibly deactivating primers or powder. Remote possibility I'm sure but I started thinking about it when I noticed some cases tipping over occasionally and hitting the twist rod or laying on the shell plate.

Update on powder leakage (Ramshot TAC): Got it fixed. When looking at the disks sliding back and forth underneath the wiper on the hopper I noticed that I could actually see daylight between the top disk and the wiper. The wiper really wasn't touching the top disk surface at all like it was supposed to. In other words, the wiper wasn't 'wiping'. I took the hopper apart and sanded the base down about 0.010". After loading a few hundred rounds, I only get some scattering of granules on the shell plate and none on my bench. Before, the area around my bench and the shell plate would be peppered with TAC after only 40 rounds. The other thing I did was change my reloading technique. I am now slowing down the shell plate by hand before it snaps into place. This prevents any powder from sloshing out of the case when it arrives at the bullet seating station. DinoR: You can just use a razor blade and keep taking thin slices off the corners until you get it working better.

Someone suggested a PVC t-fitting to me a while back. It's supposed to slip over the threads of the trim die between the lock nuts.

How about a .223 case gage?

Hey guys, I've recently converted my Pro 1000 to load .223 Rem. I'm having a problem with the fine spherical ball powder leaking and dropping powder onto the shell carrier and my work bench. Here are my specifics: Ramshot Tac Double Disk Kit 'New Style' red Powder Hopper with wiper Powder drop actuated by spring (not the bead chain) I have everything tight. After about 40 rounds, I have about 10 particles of powder in a dime sized area all over the press and on my bench. Charge weights are very consistent but the mess is bothering me a little. Is this 'normal' for the Auto Disk mechanism and fine ball powder or is there a fix for this? I'm thinking about shortening the double disk stand off plates so the powder hopper wiper is tighter against the disks.

All in good fun, Brother, taken with all the Peace and Love intended (thanks). Besides, I was only being critical of the unreliable ones! (See question above about seeking a 'good, reliable hippie company')

I did and I found that site as well. The question is more about BE Forum members having actual, positive experience with a specific vendor.

Hey guys, None of the local health food or vitamin stores carries lanolin oil. Most of the online vendors are flaky hippie companies that don't track stock and/or have really slow shipping. I have a batch coming from Web Vitamins via Amazon. It took three (3) days for my order to leave their dock! Anyone have a recommendation for a good, reliable hippie company with actual stock on hand and fast shipping? Thanks.

Pretty much what Terry said. Split the trough and move the primers up with a paper clip or tweezers. With 45 ACP, if the primer is driven in sideways I'll take a small pair of needle nose pliers and GENTLY rotate it out using an unscrewing motion. I don't grip the primer and just use the pliers like a fork to twist it. Don't know if it will work with 9mm and small primers. This is with an empty case by the way (no powder or bullet). Obviously, this won't work with a fully flipped primer. Terry and others have brought up another important point about making sure the trough is full. I have almost no problems if I remember to keep the primer trough is full by shaking the tray.

I'm not sure what you mean about a cocked primer though. I think what he means is 'how do you remove a primer that got forced into the primer hole sideways/backwards'. I always save those until I'm done with the batch or come to a good stopping point. Make sure the primer trough is empty then raise the ram enough so you can introduce the bad case on or near the seating station. After that, with the ram partially raised, you can back the shell plate all the way around (clockwise) until the bad case is at the depriming station.