Field test of the Mod 10 Snubbie

[Forrest Halley]

I decided to venture out to a local IDPA match and try out my newest tinkerage: a S&W Model 10 snubnose. I bobbed the hammer polished the action and tuned the mainspring to the ammo...almost. The first stage which was 3 strings of 5 static steel should have been a cake walk with the longest shot being at about 15 yds. After a six miss zeroing session (on the clock directed at the first target) I was off to the races with a reload and my first hit and four more to complete the string. I must have been staring at the target that first cylinder as all but one or two shots subsequently were center punches. I was also plagued by a series of light strikes (due to primer seating)until I switched back to a factory length strain screw. The match then went on with great ease as the gun functioned flawlessly and was easy to shoot freestyle and SHO. Everything was going well until the long shots came at about 20yds on paper which felt like 100 with the small sight radius...no it wasn't pretty. This gun proved to be very accurate today and I was grateful for challenge and the lessons in attention to detail. I can hardly wait to exorcise the gremlins, get in some practice and redeem myself on the scoresheet that I somehow escaped the bottom of. I attached a picture to prove existance.

[westczek]

Forrest,

Soundslike an interesting project. The bob-job looks very agressive. I like the idea of a light k-frame, even for USPSA, maybe a longer barrel though. Shot North Mountain today, three revo shooters.

Westczek

[Carmoney]

The bob-job looks very agressive.

Looks to me like it's been "Faux-monized."

[Forrest Halley]

The bob-job looks very agressive.

Looks to me like it's been "Faux-monized."

Let's just say I'm not afraid to take up a great idea when I see one. Thanks for the inspiration! Although I'm very sure you do a better job. This was a learning experience and just plain fun. If I ever get to a big time match I'd welcome your critique.

Yes it's aggressive enough alright. Sorry I could not make North Mountain this time. Failure to plan ahead on primer supply led to an ammo crunch on the .45 side and as my project is not yet cut for clips...I wasn't about to donate brass to the grass.

The beauty of this gun is the transition speed and smooth trigger. Long range accuracy...coming soon. I'm thinking about sighting in for 125's but would love the peanut gallery's take on suggested loads. IDPA says it can make power factor in the longest barrel length allowable for the division (4" bbl) how about USPSA? Does it have to make it in your gun?

[Carmoney]

Let's just say I'm not afraid to take up a great idea when I see one.

Same here! I have an old book at home that has photos of a custom PPC revolver from the '70s with the exact same hammer cut. That's how I stole re-discovered the concept!

[High Lord Gomer]

IDPA says it can make power factor in the longest barrel length allowable for the division (4" bbl) how about USPSA? Does it have to make it in your gun?

Yes.

[Forrest Halley]

Yes.

So I am limited to whatever I can do out of a 2" bbl? After reading the rule on this it's not so bad they'll still let me shoot the match through even if I don't make minor.

[High Lord Gomer]

Yes, if you shoot sub-minor you can shoot the match but your score will not be calcuated nor displayed.

All of that assumes a match that chronos competitors loads. Most local matches honor your declared Power Factor without checking to see if you make it or not.

If you shoot a local USPSA match with a 2" barrel, I don't see anyone challenging you to verify you made PF.

[usmc1974]

Well, who do you think you are, Dick Tracy?

[Forrest Halley]

Well, who do you think you are, Dick Tracy?

I was going for more of Cody Jarrett....from White Heat and of no relation to his illustrious fortyship I thought about wearing a 3 piece suit and hat to match but then found out the targets don't care about a sharp dressed man.

What's the consensus on rechambering to shoot .38 super in brass at least? It's only a .005 larger on case and neck diameter and I don't think I'd be looking for major in a K frame.

[Bubber]

Well, who do you think you are, Dick Tracy?

I was going for more of Cody Jarrett....from White Heat and of no relation to his illustrious fortyship I thought about wearing a 3 piece suit and hat to match but then found out the targets don't care about a sharp dressed man.

What's the consensus on rechambering to shoot .38 super in brass at least? It's only a .005 larger on case and neck diameter and I don't think I'd be looking for major in a K frame.

There has been much discussion on the matter. Consensus was that a K frame cylinder is mighty thin, especially at the cylinder notch and cylinder. May be more advantageous to go with either Short colt or Long colt brass. I did my L frame and it works great but not close enough velocities on the same loading data as my open 627, but doable. later rdd

[Tom E]

Well, who do you think you are, Dick Tracy?

I was going for more of Cody Jarrett....from White Heat and of no relation to his illustrious fortyship I thought about wearing a 3 piece suit and hat to match but then found out the targets don't care about a sharp dressed man.

What's the consensus on rechambering to shoot .38 super in brass at least? It's only a .005 larger on case and neck diameter and I don't think I'd be looking for major in a K frame.

There has been much discussion on the matter. Consensus was that a K frame cylinder is mighty thin, especially at the cylinder notch and cylinder. May be more advantageous to go with either Short colt or Long colt brass. I did my L frame and it works great but not close enough velocities on the same loading data as my open 627, but doable. later rdd

All the "newer" 38's are, according to S&W, good for .38 +p. There are .357 magnum K frames (13, 19 & 66 come to mind) and .357 mag makes pressures similar to .38 super. Anyone KNOW if model 10, 13, 14 and 19 cylinders are different material and/or heat treat or if they're all the same? If they are the same, a .38 special K frame loaded to .357 mag pressures woud be no big deal except the light bullet forcing cone cracking issue. I've been wondering in relation to a 14-7 I have. I had an early 640 (38 special) loaded up to throw 158 gr hollow points 1,000 fps from it's 1 7/8" barrel with no ill effects (except recoil and muzzle blast) and no case sticking.

Edited May 18, 2010 by Tom E

[Cherryriver]

Don't you find that the Model 10 is kind of oversized for that kind of use?

(That was 18-A, 5-C, 1-D, and those were 18-yard shots in back there.)

Edited May 19, 2010 by Cherryriver

[Forrest Halley]

I don't find it over sized at all. I find it points very naturally and my only complaint is the super short ejection rod. Now if I could just get it to reload a little quicker...

Edited May 21, 2010 by Forrest Halley

[Boats]

Cherryriver,

Nice Colt, tell me about the rubber over the Tyler, Is is purpose made or bike inner tube. Looks useful for Retro Revolvers.

Boats

[Cherryriver]

Boats... equally nice gun you have there.

The grip wrap in the picture is a commercially available tool handle wrap called "Airgrip". I bought a bunch locally for hammer handle covers. I'm an old carpenter and I still prefer hickory-handled hammers. This Airgrip is an absolute wonder, just the right degree of tackiness and it doesn't get slippery even when it gets wet. The cushion factor is considerable, far beyond what you'd expect from such a thin sleeve.

It is sold as a "cold shrink" wrap, with a plastic, spiral coil up the middle that you pull to strip out of the inside so that the cylinder of rubber collapses onto the tool handle.

I got mine at Berland's House of Tools in Palatine, Illinois.

The bad news is, I haven't found any for sale lately. Amazon used to sell it, too, but discontinued it. I haven't found a substitute yet, and I need some since I swiped some off of the tools for the guns.

This Aigrip worked wonders on the Glock I used to have, too, made it almost nice to shoot, if you like ugly black guns with weirdo triggers and awkward grip shapes.

It really helps the Miculek grips I like on Smiths, especially on hot days. My 586/IDPA shooter got a lot better with just a short piece of this stuff.

It's a huge improvement over the electrical friction tape that was so standard back in my father-in-law's days on the Chicago PD, where many a holster showed a taped Official Police handle poking out.

[eric4069]

I have a similar grip sleeve I am using which is made for tennis raquet handles and is available at Walmart in the tennis section.

Called "what a grip". Cost about 2.50

Eric

Edited May 21, 2010 by eric4069

[oldfrank]

I have a similar grip sleeve I am using which is made for tennis raquet handles and is available at Walmart in the tennis section.

Called "what a grip". Cost about 2.50

Eric

Interesting grip. I did a little searching and found if you "Google" Stiletto Airgrip a lot of places seem to carry it.

[HeadHunter]

I have a lot of fun with my 2" Model 10.

.

[Boats]

Good tip am going to look for one. I have a weak spot for old Smiths with Grip adapters, some like the Tyler's work good others need a bit of tightening up. Have a Victory with a Meashon plastic adapter that could use the extra grip and support.

Boats

[20nickels]

I have lots O fun with a 4" model 10 and standard .38 SPL. length cases. 158 gr boolits hit to POA and put down steel well enough over a helping of WST. Probably more powder than I'm comfortable printing here, but it shoots clean and the M-10 eats them just fine.

[HeadHunter]

Boats... equally nice gun you have there.

The grip wrap in the picture is a commercially available tool handle wrap called "Airgrip". I bought a bunch locally for hammer handle covers. I'm an old carpenter and I still prefer hickory-handled hammers. This Airgrip is an absolute wonder, just the right degree of tackiness and it doesn't get slippery even when it gets wet. The cushion factor is considerable, far beyond what you'd expect from such a thin sleeve.

Is this it? 18" AirGrip™ Cold-Shrink Handle Wrap

[Cherryriver]

That's the stuff, but that price is double what I paid, and I thought even that was steep.

[HeadHunter]

That's the stuff, but that price is double what I paid, and I thought even that was steep.

Speedloaders cost close to $20, with the new importer of SLV charging almost $30, I believe. Keeping a good grip on the gun; priceless, don't go to the range without it. I may have to try some of this stuff. An 18" piece should do ~6 heaters; that's only $3+ each.