Benelli Carrier Latch

[Brian Payne]

I did a search and was not able to get the information I was looking for. I thought that I had read something about this quite some time ago.

I have a Benelli M2 12ga. I also had a Benelli M1 prior to this. I know the M1 loaded much easier (using the same type and length mag spring) than the M2. I thought someone had said that the M1 carrier latch was different than the one found in the M2. By "loading harder" I mean that the shell takes more force to push past the latch going into the mag tube. I call that latch the carrier latch because that is what Benelli calls it in the parts schematic on Brownell's web site.

Could anyone in the know shed any light on this? I have polished the M2 carrier but it still loads harder than the M1. Is the difference in the carrier latch? the carrier latch spring? or what.

Thanks for any help.

[abn-rgr]

Call Benny, but you already knew that!!!

[TMC]

The only spring the touches that latch is one on the back side between it and the reciever and it actually moves it out of the way so the shell can pass by when the latch is released by the trigger mechanism. The latch/shell stop is made of spring steel and what manages the tension are two u-shaped notches, one on the top and one on the bottom. If you lengthen those notches it lessens the amount of force it will take to get a shell to pass by.

Edited March 18, 2010 by TMC

[slowsure]

Brian,

I have been wondering the same. I have polished the "carrier latch" also and the effort to push the rim of the shotgun shell did'nt really reduce much.

TMC,

The "u shaped notch" top and bottom is this notch at the front (muzzle end) of the reciever? Right at the area where the spring steel carrier latch ends? By "lengthen notches" do you mean make them deeper in the receiver?

[mike.45]

You simply need to polish it more, read grind rather than polish and you are about there - dont take too much off the front though as you will weaken the angle of the bend too much and the curved side will snap off.

If you look at the dynamics of a shell being loaded into the gun its the bottom 1/3 of the carrier latch that it fights against, once in the magazine its the top 2/3rds that retain it. So grind away at that bottom 1/3rd and try and leave the top 2/3 un-changed.

That theory has worked for me many times

[slowsure]

aaaaahhhhhh.....I get it now. I'm off to kick start the dremel....and order a spare

Thanks mike.45

[havotec1]

good info thanks!!

[kz45]

This is just what I needed, I did both and what a difference, it will save me a ton of time

[TMC]

NO, no.. not the receiver, the notches in the shell stop/latch. Its made of steel and flexes at those notches when you insert a shell. By making the notches slightly longer it will bend easier.

TMC,

The "u shaped notch" top and bottom is this notch at the front (muzzle end) of the reciever? Right at the area where the spring steel carrier latch ends? By "lengthen notches" do you mean make them deeper in the receiver?

[kurtm]

I am bringing this forward for JoshF, and I also have a question for TMC.

When you grind the "U" are you doing it at the front or just after the retainer pin holes? Thanks. KurtM

[dchang0]

Somebody say something about a picture being worth a thousand words?

I took apart mine to try this mod and took a photo of the part with the U-shaped notches.

Turns out I didn't grind enough out to make a whole lot of difference. It's noticeable, but just barely. I took off 1mm from both notches using a round needle file. It's so much trouble to remove this piece that it's not worth taking it back out to grind some more.

Hope this helps, bros.

Please note, this bolt release/shell catch has been drilled and tapped for an Arredondo extended bolt release.

Edited June 14, 2010 by dchang0

[Dan Sierpina]

Somebody say something about a picture being worth a thousand words?

I took apart mine to try this mod and took a photo of the part with the U-shaped notches.

Turns out I didn't grind enough out to make a whole lot of difference. It's noticeable, but just barely. I took off 1mm from both notches using a round needle file. It's so much trouble to remove this piece that it's not worth taking it back out to grind some more.

Hope this helps, bros.

Please note, this bolt release/shell catch has been drilled and tapped for an Arredondo extended bolt release.

After reading this thread, I tried TMC's modification. I deepened the notches about 20%, and widened them back towards the pivot by about 50%. The results is startling. I had previously polished the heck out of the latch, using a ScotchBrite wheel, which helped only minimally.

[JoshF]

Thanks Kurt!

I did the bend/tweak method and was amazed with how easy it was and sensitive the latch is to a small tweak. After I'm confident with the function of this one I might mill my spare and see how light I can get it

[cas]

Well now... apparently I've been misunderstanding just what and where everyone's been talking about grinding on. Jeeeze I was way off.

I'm almost afraid to do the right thing now in conjunction with my wrong things.

[mpeltier]

I understand that this modification is by design to reduce the effort needed to load each shell into the mag tube. Do the shells subsequently come out of the tube easier from this mod when the action is working? I'm not really sure of what the action does to release each shell when the gun is fired.

[Dan Sierpina]

I understand that this modification is by design to reduce the effort needed to load each shell into the mag tube. Do the shells subsequently come out of the tube easier from this mod when the action is working? I'm not really sure of what the action does to release each shell when the gun is fired.

It looks like that the cartridge drop lever moves out of the way, the carrier latch pivots and allows the shell to move out of the magazine. The latch doesn't need to flex when releasing the shell.

Looking at the parts schematic might help clear things up.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=0/sid=682/schematicsdetail/Super_90_M1_Field

[ledavatar]

Well now... apparently I've been misunderstanding just what and where everyone's been talking about grinding on. Jeeeze I was way off.

I'm almost afraid to do the right thing now in conjunction with my wrong things.

Cas, remind me to ask you about the latch mod this Saturday night at dinner in PA. I'm intrigued as well. I'm driving up there w/ Perry and we're staying at the same hotel.

[eringobragh]

Can anyone post a pic of an actual properly modified latch?

[mike.45]

I took out my already sweet loading carrier latch today and widened and elongated both 'U' cuts and I can now easily unload the gun by pinching the shell stop end of the carrier latch and popping the shells out of the mag, and it does seem to load smoother, I wanted to cut out the 'U's more but thought I would ask advice first!!

I have probably elongated the 'U' by 80% and slightly widened it. How far can you go opening up these 'U' cuts and how deep down the latch is just about right, without ruining the thing ??

Cheers

Edited June 23, 2010 by mike.45

[Dan Sierpina]

I took out my already sweet loading carrier latch today and widened and elongated both 'U' cuts and I can now easily unload the gun by pinching the shell stop end of the carrier latch and popping the shells out of the mag, and it does seem to load smoother, I wanted to cut out the 'U's more but thought I would ask advice first!!

I have probably elongated the 'U' by 80% and slightly widened it. How far can you go opening up these 'U' cuts and how deep down the latch is just about right, without ruining the thing ??

Cheers

The only way to know for sure is, keep grinding, when it breaks in a match, don't do the next one so deep.

After I modified mine, I found I could unload from the tube much easier also. Did you grind it more deep than wide? I think widening it would be better, more leverage for the spring action.

[FB3GDQ]

I don't understand at all what any of you are trying to do. All of my stuff is still stock and runs fine, but what so these mods do for loading?

[Dan Sierpina]

I don't understand at all what any of you are trying to do. All of my stuff is still stock and runs fine, but what so these mods do for loading?

The modifications ease entry of shells into the magazine tube. Have you ever not put quite enough pressure on the shell when loading, and have it pop out? I've had it happen a couple time when practicing.