new Super 1050 owner questions

[MoNsTeR]

I bought a secondhand Super 1050 and just got a bench built and the press mounted today, and have a couple of questions before I start using it.

1. The press came to me without the station 3 expander/swager support die. Can I live without it? If so, do I need to remove the swage rod?

2. I noticed the powder funnel does not have the same shape as the ones for the 550, which I assume is related to the expander function of the special station 3 die. Again, can I live without that die? If so, should I swap in a 550-style powder funnel?

3. Is the powder measure the same as the 550 powder measure? The press came with the new style (2pc crank) and all my current powder measures are old style (1pc crank). I had planned to set up 2 powder measures with different loads, so if I can use the ones I already have that would save me some money.

[D.Hayden]

I'd remove the swage, since you won't be supporting the shell plate any longer - just me

Not sure about the powder funnel, I only use the ones form the 1050 conversions

The powder measures are interchangeable. I think Dillon said the one that comes with the 1050's (has black parts), is stronger metal for commercial reloading, but for us.. no difference.

[dillon]

What caliber is the machine in? That will allow us to answer better.

[MoNsTeR]

9mm

[MoNsTeR]

I ended up just ordering the expander/swage support die, which I received and installed yesterday. Is there a trick to adjusting it? The instructions say that the support rod should contact the inside of the case, but it's a little tough to tell when that's happening. At some point you can definitely tell that it's holding the case against the swage rod and work is being done on the primer pocket, but I'm not sure how much resistance I should be feeling.

[al503]

I ended up just ordering the expander/swage support die, which I received and installed yesterday. Is there a trick to adjusting it? The instructions say that the support rod should contact the inside of the case, but it's a little tough to tell when that's happening. At some point you can definitely tell that it's holding the case against the swage rod and work is being done on the primer pocket, but I'm not sure how much resistance I should be feeling.

Put an unsized case in station 2. Sometimes it is big enough to allow the swage rod to go in with little resistance and you can feel it bottom out as you screw the die down.

If not, then without a case in station 2, screw down the die with the tool head lowered to where you think the bottom of the case will be. Put in a case and lower the toolhead. Keep doing this until you can see the die push the case and the shell plate down slightly, then back it out a quarter turn or so.

Not sure if this is the correct way but that's what I did (when I used it the die and swage rod, which I don't anymore for no particular reason.)

[MoNsTeR]

I tried loading a few rounds and am having serious trouble with inconsistent primer seating depth. One case will prime just fine, and the next will have a visibly protruding primer, seemingly at random. Anyone have troubleshooting tips for this beyond what's in the manual?

[Sherwyn]

If your primer seating has any variation, it almost has to be in the shell plate not being tight enough. The only other way to have high primers is to short stroke it, and that is noticable at other stations as in changing OAL etc.

I normally run the shell plate as tight as I can and still have the detent ball keep it aligned.

Sherwyn

I tried loading a few rounds and am having serious trouble with inconsistent primer seating depth. One case will prime just fine, and the next will have a visibly protruding primer, seemingly at random. Anyone have troubleshooting tips for this beyond what's in the manual?

[Canuck223]

I recommend that you get the support die for this caliber. The 1050 was designed to open the case mouth at this station. 9mm so regularly come with crimped primers that running the presss without the swager just seems wrong. Eventually you'll look at getting a Mr.BulletFeeder, which will require the station 3 belling.

As for priming, back the plastic tabs securing the nut that holds the shellplate down off a bit. Tighten the plate until it won't budge, then back off 1/6th a turn and test it. If it turns freely, secure the tabs.

Edited February 24, 2010 by Canuck223

[acowboy]

i cut a case side out with a dremel, then use it to adjust the stem...then you can see what youre doing.

[DougCarden]

Sherwyn is right on about the shellplate adjustment. Next thing is the bolt that holds on the toolhead assy. If those two things are tight, then other then adjusting the depth of the primer with the adjustment screw on the toolhead, that is it.

To adjust the stem. I would put a case in station 2, put the toolhead down, and then adjust the stem down until you feel it hit the case and bottom out. Experiment with the depth, adjust, then cycle the machine and see how it feels. You want it tight, but not to the point it is pushing on the inside of the case too hard. Once you get this, then it is a good time to adjust the primer swage rod from the bottom up.

I just put a Mr. Bulletfeeder on today, and once you try one, you will be done, period!

Good luck,

DougC

[RiggerJJ]

When you do adjustments on the swager, you need to have all positions on the shellplate populated...it will make a difference.

Mixed brass will also make a difference, some will get underswaged, some squeezed too much.

jj