Jeff686

What does that mean? I wear suspenders when I shoot because I'm shaped like a pear. This seems to imply that I could attach my suspenders to my inner belt, and skip the belt loops in my pants...

I agree with everything above. I think Henning might have some in stock right now. I know that a shipment just arrived last month from Italy. I had been planning on getting one in 9mm, but found one in 38 super for a good price. I'm glad I did. The non-tapered 38 SC feed really well from the magazine. With Henning's base pad, I can get 23 rounds in the 140mm magazine (really tight though).

That is illegal here, and probably in Texas too...

I call that porpoising ( a glider flying term, kinda like this video: ).It reminds me of Charlie's Angels. @Flex, thanks for that hint to look in Steve's book. I'll have to look them up. Porposing is a good name for it. Don't even get me started about TV gun handling However, I don't think that video was glider porposing, it looked more like a winch launch to me. Glider porposing I've seen is usually pilot induced oscillations (PIO) during towing behind a power plane. It's usually a problem for heavy handed novices, early in the takeoff roll as the gilder becomes airborn before the tow plane. I sometimes have the problem (single oscillation) during the 1st flight of the season, or the 1st flight in a new/different aircraft. Are you a pilot? We should swap stories. I have a great one about a Blanik, a doberman, and a huge lone oak tree in a big empty field.

Single stack / production / L10 shooters not changing mags when moving & therefor going to slide lock in middle of an array. - EVERY STAGE! Single stack / production / L10 shooters doing a standing reload. Swinging from array to array around a barrier with gun extended (pull that gun into the chest instead.) Drawing to a barrel up position, and lowering the front sight onto target (tick-tock tick-tock). Dropping shoulder and twisting hip when drawing from holster. Waiting for the steel to fall before moving on to the next one!!!! (bang-klang bang-klang bang-klang - slow) (bang-bang-bang klang-klang-klang - fast) Production DA shooters who don't 'takeup' their triggers soon enough on their 1st shot. The DEATH GRIP. Thinking expensive gear will make up for a bad shooter. Grinding your teeth when shooting (my big problem - too tense!)

I had a NcStar scope on my AR. I wanted to use it for varmint hunting. I think it was a 9-24 power. Anyway, it was a total piece of junk. The zero MOVED as you zoomed in and out, by inches!!. I should have known better, cheap POS. If you are going to buy economy optics, I'd try Mueller Optics. I have one on my 22 and it's solid. Decent glass, no frills, but no surprises either. They are building a reputation of economical quality. They're no leupold, but they aren't a rip-off NcStar either. They sell a reflex type red dot that is probably a decent performer. Mueller Optics

I can get a really great cadence going with my 686 .357. As the sights come down from each shot, I start the squeeze, letting off the next round as they fall on the next pin... Seems natural.

Yea, I love mine too. I only wear them during outside activities like skiing, shooting, or diving. Normally, while inside at work, my eyes dry out too much, and when I blink the contacts spin a little (making my computer screen characters go a little fuzzy then clear).

Maybe this is the excuse I need to go back home for a visit.

I love my SDBs. I've got one setup for 45, and one for 38 super. I would NEVER get rid of them. Caliber conversion is simple for me; I just slide the stool from one press to the next. How many rifle rounds are you going to load? They take a lot more time, just in case prep, so don't expect to hammer out ammo at the same rate as 45. I have a Lee Turret Press that I plan to use if I ever start loading rifle ammo. I figure I'll only reload rifle ammo for accuracy (small volume) needs, or if they outlaw ammo sales. I haven't done a reload time/cost analysis for 223 yet, but unless prices go WAY up, I'll buy reloads for plinking.

I shoot 147 subsonic with titegroup... Standard carbine spronggg. 100% reliable, so far.

Hey Mo! How'd you do the blue grip? Is that tape or epoxy/sand or what?

That calculator is great, but is missing some of the newer classifiers. I think USPSA should have a calculator available. In fact, I think we should have access to the whole database. I think it would be interesting to chart and graph some of the results to look for trends and such...

Here's some more fun I received today: THIS IS AN OFFICIAL GUNSAMERICA FRAUD ALERT Do NOT send payment to anyone asking you to use TRUSTe. If the price of an item is unusually low - be suspicious. If you suspect fraud, email GunsAmerica customer service. There is a group of con artists who are targeting buyers on private selling sites such as GunsAmerica. These frauds advertise items they do not have, take your money, then never deliver. One very common ploy they use is to send an email to you telling you about TRUSTe secure payments. They will also try to convince you that GunsAmerica has approved payment through TRUSTe. This is a scam!! They will also tell you GunsAmerica has a payment protection program or buyer protection plan - this is not true. We can not and do not have a payment protection program. HOW TO PROTECT YOURSELF: Be sure to read our FAQs on FRAUDS & SCAMS. http://www.gunsamerica.com/FAQ.htm#fraudscams Most scams of this type will be selling items at a very low price. Always question a deal that seems too good to be true - because it probably isn't true. Always get the seller's first and last name, address, phone number, and the name of the FFL who will be shipping to your FFL (if applicable). If the seller does not want to give you the FFL info, he must at least give it to your FFL dealer before you make payment. Always check a seller's name, address, and phone number in known databases (white pages, USPS.com, etc.). NEVER send payment using MoneyGram or wire transfers - they are almost always used by scammers. If you do not feel comfortable, if something doesn't feel right - do NOT deal with that person. If you suspect fraud please send an email to customerservice@gunsamerica.com - be sure to give us the GA Listing Number. Customer Service www.GunsAmerica.com

I ran laser cast SWC in my 45 for a couple of years, no problems. Once I had the dies adjust, I left them alone. Little did I know how lucky I was. One day, I couldn't get laser cast, so I bought another brand. No Joy. FTF One day, I decided to switch to plated, so I bought some ranier SWC. No Joy. FTF I think I tried three different lead and two different plated SWC, I played with seating depth and crimp. Never worked. I went back to laser cast and couldn't get them to work either, until I carefully measured an old round and matched the dimensions exactly. Now, I shoot RN...

OK, what about the other option... You've got a 40 that accidentally chrono'd minor (160ish). So, you go to your car and get that 40 ammo that you loaded minor (130ish)... Legal? That leads me to another question. I've never shot a match with a chrono stage, so I'm ignorant. Who pics the ammo to chrono, the shooter or the RO? Could an unsavory type cheat, and sneak some major PF in for chrony?

World's Smallest Gun

My biggest problem is the powder/belling station. My brass seems to be elastic enough that it grabs the die on the way out and won't let go easily. I tried different amounts of bell, but still have the 'grabbing' effect. It's Armscor 38 super brass. It gets pretty bad sometimes, and will 'bounce' powder out of the case as it lets go... The only solution I've found is to put a little lube on the die, where it bells the case. I use that waxy die lube (Lee or Redding, looks like lip balm), but only a little tiny bit. It needs reapplied every 100 rounds!!! sucks for me! I was thinking of taking the die out and checking for nicks or scratches, and polishing it. I don't have this probolem with any other caliber...

Cool! Pics with it on your gun please!

I know you said you wanted plated, but since you live in Boise, you could shoot over to Oregon Trail Bullet Company, and get some excellent Laser Cast. I used to shoot thier 200gr SWC in my 45.

I sure wish we had an empirical method for measuring dot movement. I saw the camera visor on Shooting USA, that allowed them to film the exact POV of the shooter. You could actually see the dot as they were shooting. This was great, because it included ALL factors that impact dot motion, including grip/stance (not just a gun rest/vice). I've been considering designing some type of universal 3 axis accelerometer to measure and track gun motion during firing. Ideally, I would put it in the base of the magazine, so we could put it in different guns to compare their recoil performance. You could even us it to compare different grips or grip material.

Get a pilots license!

Sooooooo... They don't chrony at your local matches? I guess that makes it easier to cheat. Sorry, just kidding! I really wanted a 9major gold team. Henning told me not to, but I didn't listen. After being unable to find a 9mm one for 6 mos, I finally bought one in 38 super, despite my desire for 9mm. Let me tell you, I get 23rnds in the 140mm mags and 29 in the big stick, and they all run perfectly. Loading them is easy! Those rimless 38 sit nice and even and level. It was good advice to get the 38super rimless. I wasted 6 mos, and could have been shooting instead!!

Anyone have a reduced power spring for their magazine catch on their Tanfoglio? If so, where can I get one? I have one in my single stack 1911, and really like it. The one in my Gold Team is much heavier, and I'd like to change it out. Wolff and Henning don't have them on their web page. If the spring is pre-compressed, I guess I could try cutting off a coil or two...

+1 I run seven of the 10 Round Power Mags. They are the best I've ever owned. I had to trim the base pad to fit my magazine well, but other than that they run 100%.