Justsomeguy

Well... unless the Aussie dollar is only worth about 40 cents American that is what I would call outrageous. That would make a decent automobile cost you about 100,000 Aussie dollars to be on par. You need a change of politicians.

The EAA types are easier to do than most. If you are familiar with 1911 types and can do those, you will have little problem tuning up the EAA/Tanfoglio guns. There are various UTube vids online that give pretty good insight into the takedown and assembly as well as which parts to polish and so on. Aftermarket parts are available, but I would try working with the stock parts first. Go slow, don't overdo, and plan on disassembly/reassembly several times before you get it right. If you still need it to be lighter you will need some springs. Wolff Gunsprings are actually very good and I suppose the one non stock part you should have on hand before you start. Don't go too light or you will not be able to set off all the primers that you might encounter. Somewhere around a 15-14lb mainspring/hammer spring will probably get you down into the low 4lb/upper 3lb trigger range which is actually very good if you get it feeling crisp. Much lower than that and it's pretty touchy for most shooters.

Since you are getting different velocity results using TiteGroup loadings with the NatMil powder, it seems that it is not as fast as TiteGroup which might be a good thing. Hopefully it is not as hot (that is, does not heat up the gun in a string of fire) as TiteGroup is either. So, though it might not be a TiteGroup replacement, it may still be a useful powder if specs can be established for it.

I too have wondered at the seemingly fast placement of e3 on the burn rate charts. At first I would not consider it, but then, testing done by some of the members here and elsewhere led me to acquire some for testing when the weather permits. I must say that most of the manufacturer testing is conducted in what are called "closed bomb tests" which completely enclose the powder in a vessel and read the pressure when it is ignited. Most of us who reload have noted that different powders will react differently in various case sizes, and what is poor in one may be golden in another. To me then, the placement of e3 on the various charts is related to the way it was originally tested without regard to how it acted in various sized cartridge cases. When the powder is allowed to burn in a more conventional way it seems to be slower than the "closed bomb" type testing would indicate. At least that is how it seems to me with the limited reports we now have. As an aside, it might also make a pretty good powder for "smokeless fireworks" if the closed bomb testing is any indication.

Ok... this is what I was wondering also. I hesitated to order new pins because his site only lists the old type with no FPB. I have both double and single action types and want to use them in both. Hopefully he will return soon from SHOT and I can get a reply from him for the message I left him.

I really like 9X23 also. There is no problem making "major" with the round with room to spare and it has been very accurate using several bullet and powder types so far. I really don't know why more people don't use it. Good magazine capacity, makes major with no pressure problems, easy to reload and the brass will last forever. What's not to love?

In a .40 I have tried some 3N38 using 165grn bullets out of an XDm 5.25 which produced about 1182fps average for 20 shots with RMR plated HP bullets @ 1.140 OAL. This is about the slowest powder I used but the ES and SD figures were not stellar, being 78 and 17.5 respectively. I suppose it would work with lighter bullets too, but this was an SD load experiment for which it seems more than adequate, producing about 512ft/lbs. of energy and 195PF. I have heard that Lil' Gun works well in the 38 Super and produces some fairly surprising velocities in that sized case with pretty complete burn, but I haven't tried any yet as it is hard to come by nowadays.

This ^^! Overcrimping reduces the bullet diameter and so ruins the fit to the barrel.

The SWC bullets, though making nicer holes in targets, have problems in some guns when extraction is taking place. The base of the extracting case can catch on the sharp shoulder of the next round in the magazine (especially in double stack types)which throws it off the extractor and ties up the gun, or can even damage the magazine as the new round gets rammed into the back of the magazine by the extracting case. Even if it does feed, the new round might be shortened by "setback" if it gets hit by the former extracting case and things could go wrong. Better to stick with truncated cone bullets I think.

Well... aside from the actual flames and some considerations of wearing non-flammable clothing, the gun DID seem stable!

Yep tried Pledge..... Just a half second blast above a plastic bucket with about 500 9mm's in it , let the spray settle and then mix 'em up with your hand. Tip the cases into the case feeder and you are good to go. The only reason I went with the Dillon stuff was so I could use it on my compensators.Wait... you lube your compensators? With case lube??? Doesn't it burn off anyway? Granted I don't own a compensated gun, but I never knew you had to lube a compensator.lolol you don't gave to lube a comp! Spraying Dillon lube into the ports makes the carbon come right off when cleaning Oh... phew! I had visions of you at the line, lube dripping from your compensator as you were preparing to "load and make ready"... the RO gingerly trying to avoid the puddle of the stuff at your feet as you took off when the buzzer sounded. OK... it's a CLEANING thing, not a shooting thing... got it! I am still trying to erase the cartoon I had in my head of you talking to one of your buddies while showing him the Zurk fitting attached to your comp and explaining "yeah... these MG 124s sure go a lot faster now that I can inject axle grease directly into my compensator!". I'll go to bed now.

Ah... I see. I had chrono-ed some of the original Winchester stuff myself and got 1473fps for 10 shots using another gun I built up on a single stack 1911 frame, so our results are similar. I am familiar with the old Burns recommendations, but thought it a bit stout using Silhouette/WAP. I might kick it up a bit just to see when I use the Silhouette again. I too use the Starline 9X23 Comp brass, though I have 1000 new Winchester I haven't loaded yet. The Starline stuff is better for 147grn bullets with which I experimented using 8.7grns of AA7 and Wolf SR primers to get about 1176fps for a 20 shot average on a sunny 70 degree day. I did 3 20 shot groups and all were similar for that load. OAL was 1.250 using the RMR/Extreme 147grn bullets. Good to see another 9X23 user here. Good luck with your charge bar change. I don't think Silhouette is the problem.

Ah... forgot about SHOT. Ok, at least a week then.

Yes... Silhouette is great for the 40 from about mid range on up. In the 10mm you have to get it up to pressure or you are going to get those velocity swings, as with any powder. Powder is designed to operate within a certain pressure window. Below that you get poor ignition, and above that things go overpressure. Silhouette is the most linear powder I know of, it producing an expected velocity increase for a given powder increase, but below its recommended start load (or given pressure range) it will not light up consistently and so you get the velocity swings.

Ah... ok... Plated bullets are going to be much more susceptible to over crimping than most. You should pull a few of those loaded bullets and see if there is an impression on the plating. If there is a pretty deep impression then it may indeed be the cause of the key holing. And... just for those newer to reloading, a crimp is not going to prevent set back issues in any caliber. The bullet is held with case tension from a good sizing die. Crimping is about feeding, not about set back.

For SD type loadings I think you will find that, like Sarge mentioned, depending on your OAL and bullet type, you will be using 5.5 to a bit over 6grns of Silhouette with 124/125grn bullets.

I also have been unable to acquire any True Blue, and like SWThomas am more of a Silhouette guy, but TB certainly should work for minor... that PF is well within its capability. As an aside, it is reportedly the coolest burning of all powders, and thus should be good for lead as well as any plated or jacketed uses.

Me either! I use a lot of Silhouette and this is the first time I have heard of a problem. Perhaps that powder measure has some wear in the slot the charge bar rides in, or it is undersized. In 9X23 I only use 8.0grns of the stuff to get 1400fps out of a standard rifled Tanfoglio 4.75 barrel that started life as a 9X19 barrel that I reamed for the 9X23 build. I was kind of surprised that you used 8.9grns of Silhouette. What kind of gun are you using?

Hmm... ok will give it a shot and see what it looks like............. UPdate: Tried it.. got the same exact depth measurement. Ok... hopefully you mean that the plain ol' case by itself seats the same as the "dummy" with a bullet @ 1.107 which would mean the shorter OAL is the one that does not let the bullet rest on the lands.

This is interesting. I have about 8lbs of 3N38 I was going to experiment with for 9X23. Though the cases are much different it would be good to know what level you can load it to for 9X19 and your use in 38 SuperComp might be relative also. So far, with 124grn MG JHPs in 9X23 I have been using 8grns of Silhouette which works very well, but I always like to experiment.

Yep tried Pledge..... Just a half second blast above a plastic bucket with about 500 9mm's in it , let the spray settle and then mix 'em up with your hand. Tip the cases into the case feeder and you are good to go. The only reason I went with the Dillon stuff was so I could use it on my compensators. Wait... you lube your compensators? With case lube??? Doesn't it burn off anyway? Granted I don't own a compensated gun, but I never knew you had to lube a compensator.

I called Henning today (well, ok... yesterday now), but had to leave a message. I will post when I receive a reply.

The way I did it this last time was just hit the quote button which opened up the reply box anyway THEN hit the little square thingie next to the avatar, and then just clicked "post". I think the square next to the avatar when the reply box is up has something to do with formatting since words may not be broken at the end of a line, but they post just fine in the forum. And thanks to those who knew the answer... but I still think something is broken and needs to be fixed.

Now it works! Thanks!!! Hmmm... that DOES work. I wonder what that little symbol is really supposed to do that is in the corner next to the avatar? I have been having the same problem for some months now. I wish it would just work normally though. Oh... I forgot to re-hit the little square thingie, but it still posted ok.

The other lubes are ok but they are sticky. Hornady One Shot is convenient, not sticky and does not have to be tumbled off. I loaded for many years without it, but once I used it I would not like to load without it anymore. I read somewhere someone had tried using Pledge. I suppose some wax based furniture polish could work if there was no ammonia in it (ammonia degrades brass) but I never tried any. Has anyone used furniture wax?