Suburban Commando

The pieces that push the sight seems to be steel, and it'll mark up your sights if you don't put a doubled-up piece of inner tube between the sight pusher and the sights. It'll cut right through a folded up cleaning patch. I was glad I had it for installing the Heinie rear sights. The plastic OEM sight comes out easy, but the Heinie rear is a tight fit. Makes fine adjustment easier than whacking the sight with a punch.

http://stores.sjcguns.com/Categories.bok?category=New SJC has G35 slides. You could try running a conversion barrel. Lone Wolf said something about their 35 slides maybe coming out in December. 34 slides would likely come sometime after that.

LOL I just finished my review, and went to go post it, and the thread had disappeared into the ether.

I think you're making a joke, but. . . It's when you take the edges off. The cliche explanation is, "like a well used bar of soap." A "melted" 1911

The Vanek safety plunger is a Glock OEM button that he "melted." He takes the angles off the end that sticks out of the slide, and makes it round. I've tried to replicate the job by holding a stone to the plunger chucked into a drill, but I didn't get very far. I think he must use a lathe. I dunno about the titanium plungers. I hope that are rounded, and the weight reduction is not the only improvement.

I dunno about DVDs, but the "Glock in Competition" book is good to have. For a pictorial on detail stripping, check out the $0.25 trigger job link in the sticky thread.

I've done this mod before and was successful but the trigger was to short for my liking and the other i made doubled. Can you post pics of your 3 standard pads and what their characteristics are, I would appreciated it very much. Thanks, Jim I'll nudge you in the right direction. Two possible causes of doubling with a Glock: - Not enough spring tension pulling the cruciform sear upward, holding it against the firing pin tang. - Not enough cruciform sear/firing pin tang engagement. The short, orange slide cover plate is used to check engagement.

Double Tap makes at least one load with Gold Dots that make major. Ranger used to be cheaper from the guy who sold on the GlockTalk classifieds, it might still be.

These sound like spring problems rather than connector issues, although I suppose the connector could cause doubles if it were too short.

Pachmayr PacSkin I superglued some of this stuff to the handle and lever. It helps a bit. Lee needs to overmold the auto-prime or something. To be fair, the other priming tools sold by other companies are no better.

That would probably result in a pretty large gap. I would remove some material from the comp, personally.

I don't know how many there are like me, but here's my deal: I carry Glocks because they shoot really well for a defense gun, and they hold lots of rounds. I compete with Glocks because I carry Glocks, and I don't have to learn to shoot a completely different pistol, and then try to switch back. Just to prove I can shoot without a scope, I took the flashlight off the almost-stock G17 with 5 pound trigger after the plate match and shot almost the same as I did with the unlimited gun. Will I be buying a CCF frame? I dunno. Locally, I'm doing pretty well with the Glock unlimited pistol as is, and I'm thinking about shooting the carry gun more.

Nice work! You sound like me. I bought a 10/22 with the idea of making it a inexpensive tack-driver, then ended up putting over a thousand dollars into it. . . but it shoots REALLY well. My AR-15s are still works in progress, can't decide on optics. My unlimited Glock is probably the cheapest of my customs, but I think it's the most fun. I'm trying to hit all the local matches that I can. Buying a gun that's good to go? What fun is that?

Haven't bought the screens for the Pact Mk. IV, yet; I don't know how fast they are going, but the data says the 4.5gr load is about 1050fps like most factory ammo. Very accurate with Remington 115gr hollow points (the cheap UMC type) though. Precision Delta bullets are cheaper, but the profile must vary some, so I get more variance than usual in OAL. OAL I use is 1.11". Usually get plus 0.03"/minus 0 with Rem HP; plus 0.11"/minus 0 with Precision Delta. I crimp just enough to remove the bell, which is usually 0.377-0.38", depending on the brass. I've tried the same load with Berry's plated bullets, but they don't seem to group well for me. I might need a 124gr minor load someday if you don't mind sharing the details of your load, too.

I ran out of Winchester primers, and I can't buy them local anymore. Should I reduce powder charges for the Federal primers, or does it not really matter? The load I've been using most often is 4.4 or 4.5 grains of TiteGroup in 9mm with a 115 gr. jacketed bullet. With the Winchester primers at least, I can go up to 4.6 grains without signs of high pressure, even though it's beyond most loadbook data. I see that some load data specifies a certain primer, but other data doesn't mention primer brand or type. I have also heard that Federal primers are "hotter."

Things get more difficult when you start using a comp. You need to run a much lighter recoil spring, and you can only go so low before the slide won't close on it's own anymore. Maybe not as big an issue with the major loads, but you might not be able to use the mouse burp loads. I'm running a tube scope in a Carver Hunter mount (that's the tall one) and the slide still eats a piece of brass now and then.

Trigger pull is probably heavier because you've got a lighter-than-stock firing pin spring in your Glock slide. The firing pin tang in my AA upper was also longer than stock which makes for more creep. With the tang stoned to match the Glock firing pin tang protrusion, I can't tell any difference between the trigger pulls with a stock Glock upper and AA upper.

Stoned the rough spots off the trigger bar from the stamping operation. Polished the striker safety button. Polished the striker. I really couldn't get any purchase at all on the stock slide release, so I put in a Glock extended release. Sights are Heinie Straight Eight Slant Pro with the race cut. Lightning Striker (I think) stainless steel captured guide rod with ISMI 17 pound spring. I really like the Seattle Slug Plug in my G17, I want to get one for the 21 too. That's it. It's not an optimal competition rig, but I carry it, and snap on a flashlight for home defense duty.

I have built an open-type Glock, but it took me months to get it to work right and I cheated and used a Carver Hunter mount. There was a lot of recoil spring experimenting, especially with the comp. I've messed with the trigger a lot trying to get something that I consider acceptable. If you want to use the pistol this year, the SJC package gun might not be a bad deal. To get a trigger with minimal pre-travel, you should send your pistol to someone with experience. Getting a pistol with a low, frame-mounted scope to work without choking on it's ejected brass is going to be a pain. I don't have the guts to smack my slide with a hammer, if you really want the slide tightened, I'd pay someone to do it, and have them replace the slide (at their cost) if they mess up.

I tried red thread locker first, but it rotated on me anyway, although it was a real (censored) to get off. I cleaned that gunk off and added two set-screws. I drilled a divot in the barrel for one of the screws to seat in to help keep it from twisting. I used blue thread locker on all the threads, and it's held up to over a thousand rounds, probably more like 1,250, of 9mm "minor" that way. YMMV, I guess.

With the Glockworx Level 3, will the trigger safety hang up on the frame when you unload, resulting in the firing pin not catching the sear cruciform when you load up again? I've been trying to fix that problem with the pretravel removed, but I haven't been able to come up with a solution.

Ah, I see you've discovered the wonders of a compromise. The big dot on the front sight makes the pistol faster to shoot a large targets of at close range. A narrow sight is more accurate, but you generally lose some speed. For a while, I thought my G26 just wasn't very accurate, then I figured out that it was the Trijicons, and that I was comparing apples and oranges. The indoor range that I shoot at has some weird lighting. The firing line is darkish, with lights that shine on the targets. Night sights look like black sights, you can't see the white outline or the glowing dots. The white on stock Glock sights is still very visible, I'm pretty sure that the metal Glock front sight needs to be staked on, and you'll have to be careful about mixing and matching front and rear sights, since not all fronts and rears are the same height.

I might like one for my 21, but of course they don't make a large frame. All the mag funnels I've seen for Glocks are bolted to a slug plug type thing. There's no void at the back of the Raceframe because of the interchangable grip inserts. I think the article on the Raceframes is in the Guns Annual magazine.

Click the link in post #11 for LS striker pic.

http://www.glocktalk.com/showthread.php?threadid=492953 I'm not quite sure that these are what you want, but they are quick and cheap. I have a couple for my G21. I need to order a couple more pairs for my G17s.