Suburban Commando

Love mine. Sight picture looks good to me. Front sight is .225" high, which makes it a little easier to find, but it will scrape on many holsters made for pistols with stock sights. POI is about 1" high at 10 yards from my G17, which isn't really enough to make a difference.

Although it doesn't say, I believe the trigger in the first link is a Lightning Strike trigger. I swear that I remember the Mad Scientist talking about modifying a Lightning Strike trigger to be more straight. Perhaps after grinding, he just took off the rest of the finish, and this is the metal SJC trigger mentioned.

I doubt it as my Warren Tactical sights at .215 tall leave scrape marks in a Uncle Mikes holster That's weird. I have Heinie's with a .225" tall front, and I don't have any problems with my UM kydex.

I just cleaned 7 Glock mags recently, at the end of the season. Some of them had never been taken apart before. The punch-as-lever technique doesn't work with new mags that have sharp locking tabs, though it usually works with mags that have been taken apart a few times before. The tabs round off a bit, and it gets easier to get them apart. For new mags, I push the retainer plate so that I can see it up against the front of the magazine through the hole in the baseplate. Then I take a pair of pliers and squeeze in the sides of the mag where the tabs are. The plate will then slide off without much pressure. If you don't get the retainer plate out of the way, it's just about impossible to get that baseplate off. The pliers mark up the tubes some, but they get dropped onto concrete, and occasionally stepped on, so it doesn't much matter. Usually when I go messing with the Glock design, it bites me in the . . . eh, foot. I leave the tabs in place.

What does he do to the striker? Lighten it?

+2 extensions that CDNN gives away are worth exactly what you paid for them. Just throw them away!! They will pop off as soon as you drop the mag or bump a doorway with a mag on your belt. The new Glock extensions seem to be okay, and I've had Pearce extensions hold on, but CDNN ones are junk.

http://www.bb-enterprise.biz - Carver mounts, some Novak stuff, etc. http://store.ombexpress.com/parts.html - really inexpensive Glock OEM parts http://www.glockworx.com/ - I'm not sure about their trigger kits yet, but lots of Glock competition stuff http://www.midwayusa.com/ - Lots of stuff http://www.dawsonprecision.com/ - I like their front sights, will probably get an adjustable rear sight someday

Lol, sometimes, but you need to send in 3 UPC labels and $3.95 for shipping. Back to topic: the Glock polymer formula is a company secret. I hear that Gaston's dog has tried to sell the secret recipe, but the deals have never gone through.

KKM compensators are down to 3 ports now for 9mm, I think. Lone Wolf set-up will probably be more effective.

I've tried a bunch of holsters, handmade and factory. Of all of them, I like the $20 Uncle Mike's Kydex holsters more than anything else. They are sturdy, fast, and inexpensive. You can run them in IDPA with the paddle. . . most places anyway. For USPSA you can use the DOH adapter from Blade Tech if you drill a new hole to match the holster, or make your own from kydex stock. The UM belt loop works good enough for me though. For mag pouches, click the blog link in my signature, and look for the "Good, Inexpensive Mag Pouches" link on the right under "Reviews."

If you are planning to use a frame mounted optic, you may well run into trouble. With an unaltered slide, and factory ammo, you are probably going to have brass bouncing off the scope or mount and back into the ejection port. With a Carver Hunter mount and an S&J Customs 9mm Major comp, I'm running the lightest recoil spring that will close the slide, and I still need to load my ammo hot to get the pistol to run reliably.

Anybody have any tips on drilling the new hole in the trigger bar? I've spent a lot of time trying, and I only have a shallow divot to show for it. I annealed the steel, and I'm using a 5/64" ACE cobalt hard metal bit. I tried running the drill press as slow as it goes (500rpm, I think). When I saw that wasn't doing much good, I tried running the drill faster. I still have little more than a shallow divot. I've drilled new holes for the trigger spring before, which was tough, but this is friggin ridiculous.

I've been using the Lee bullet seating die to crimp, with no set-back issues. I tried HARD to get the bullet to seat deeper, but it just doesn't happen with any reasonable force, at least with Zero, Remington, and Precision Delta jacketed bullets. There was some controversy on the GlockTalk reloading forum about whether the FCD resizes bullets, so I just stopped using it, and have not looked back. I've been getting away from using TiteGroup because it's harder to get accurate charges than it is with a bulky slow powder. I feel safer with the slower powders when I'm cranking out rounds on a progressive.

A mirror polish took about a half pound off a stock 5.5lb. trigger. You'll only get a fraction of that half pound if you're down to 2.3lb. already.

Vanek trigger kits usually work with the stock striker; I know mine does. I think he's even said that he doesn't believe that using lightened strikers is a good idea.

Have Caspian gotten the bugs worked out of their Glock slides then?

I found out long ago that it's not worth reusing airsoft BBs. They get deformed from hitting stuff, and then jam up the guns. There's links to my Marui Glock 17 reviews on my blog. Linky to review posting I've been trying to put a couple mags worth through it every week. It just keeps chugging. Airsoft pistols are not great for praticing some things, but for draws and precision type stuff they are good to have around. Has definately helped by bowling pin game.

I've got 2 Glocks that I use for competition. My competition only G17 has a Vanek trigger. This pistol is easy to shoot well. I've tried to replicate what he did, but I either get doubling or the feel just isn't nearly as good. My comp/carry pistol only has a mirror polished trigger bar, the rest is stock, 5 lb. connector and all. This one still shoots well, and maintains all reliability. I tried 3.5 connectors, but I didn't like the extra creep that I got without the Vanek treatment.

EEK! NEVER shoot someone else's reloads!

That silver comp must look pretty dirty after a few boxes of ammo.

I have tried Berry's plated in 9mm, and the accuracy was just not there. Besides that, the price for Berry's locally jumped from $45/1000 to $65/1000. Precision Delta 9mm FMJ are inexpensive, but I find that the profile varies enough that OAL and accuracy aren't consistant. Zero's aren't too expensive if bought in bulk from the Ghost holster website, and they shoot well. Remington 115 gr. JHP are very accurate if you can get them in bulk at a descent price. A couple local shooters use Precision coated bullets and love them, but I haven't tried them myself.

I've got 3. 2 are about a year old, and 1 that I got through the give-away offer. All of them have significantly more creep than an OEM 5.5, and a little bit more than a Scherer. Maybe the LW connectors work better with the trigger bars that have the flat sear cruciform?

Either that, or put the stock 5 lb. connector back in. Just polishing the trigger bar and installing a 3.5 connector doesn't help a whole lot. You end up with a slightly lighter, but much more creepy trigger pull.

Lone Wolf sells that. The handle shoots loose, and I haven't really been able to find a fix for it. I've just replaced the nice handle with a long machine screw, washer and nut. Oh, it's all metal and quite sturdy, except for the handle working loose.

I called KKM, and told them I needed a 9/16" 32 tpi. threaded barrel for a S&J Customs compensator, and they shipped me a drop-in barrel that worked perfectly with the 9mm Major comp.