want2race

If it ends up in Circleville, I'm in! I missed last years.

I load the same bullets into winchester x1 fired brass with a SDB and there is a slight bulge on one side of the case neck after it's loaded. I've noticed this on nearly all rounds loaded. They work and for the price I deal with it. The bullets measure no more than .401 all the way around, however one of the pictured bullets dropped to .4005 at one point. The ring on the bullet coincides with the bulge. It's not that it's crooked, it's just off center. Like the bullet is larger than the case it goes in and as it squeezes in it bulges one side of the case out a smidgen.

I think the initial issue was the extractor and feed ramp. Fixed that for now. Factory length loads feed in fine now. Now the issue is long loads. Since it didn't do it very often, my unexpert opinion is that the diameter of the moly coated bullets is not held to as tight a tolerance as, say jacketed bullets. See pic.

Must have been that killer ramp polish that fixed the problem... Actually it was a very mild polish job to see if it would make an improvement. The extractor plunger spring on the PXT is very strong. Too strong I'd say but I'm no "Para Expert". I will try and post a pic of 1212's bullets with a ring around them. I'd say it's not his crimp as I run a rediculous amount of crimp and it did the same thing with my loads (same specs but crimp). The thoat diameter is a bit snug for the Bear Creek Moly's loaded at .180-.185. Basically, on the rounds that bind, it scrapes the moly coat of the bullet. The breech face on this particular pistol was pretty rough with deep tooling marks too. When are major manuf. going to start hard chroming their pieces so the finish doesn't wear off in an afternoon? I guess that's for another thread.

Thanks. I guess the single stack nats. are the same weekend so club attendance may be light.

Any matches on the 28th or 29th of this month in the area?

I like the 5181. I cut the "wings" down a bit to speed up the draw, ends up looking like the 5182 but I like the paddle on the 81 better. Extremely comfortable, good angle for quick draws. Was my primary carry holster until I broke it. Not the holsters fault and Safariland warrantys their holsters for 5 years.

I like the thinnest one available.

If recoil master, then you can also pull the slide off, push recoil guide rod out the front end as far it will go then snap on the green disassembly tool thingy (technical term). ETA: Too slow on the button, already posted....

I thought Spitfires were bushing barreled. Sorry.

I'm sure convex triggers have been done before but I haven't see any pictures so far. I started mild to see if I liked it. I do. Most who try it, hate it at first. It's a very different feel. It grows on you with trigger time. I'm either starting a fad, or bringing one back! First 2011. Started with one as heavy as I could get it. Over the next year I plan to whittle it down with slide cuts, bushing barrel etc.

The King's bushing wrench is very nice to have (don't have one but used one once). This wrench has a "wing" to hold the plug while you compress it. If your bushing is tight enough to require a wrench, and I assume from Beddel that it is, you might want to pick a King's.

Actually, you quoted me stating just that. As "bad" as the M9 may appear to perform, it still bested SIG's entry.

I'll try that and post. Thanks

I've been keeping an eye on this and think it may be getting worse. Loading .40 into 1x fired winchester brass, using Win SSP primers. The primers seat ok, little firm on most but they go in. Upon inspection, most primers will seat with one side of the primer just below flush and the other side of the primer just barely above flush. It's not very noticable, but it's still not perfect. I've tightened the shell plate, no change. Other than cleaning the shell plate (I just read about possible buildup, though I'm not loading bare lead bullets) is there anything else to check?

Ditto's on KYGunDoc. I found the exact same thing. The set screw's foward tip should be flat and polished. The set screws are ususally made with a tapered tip. This prevents the cruciform from popping up.

I talked to some guys that shoot their M9's a bit. One shooter installed a new locking block in the morning, cracked it by the afternoon. There are some other issues that lead to this as well, but I've seen the new style fail quite often. I don't know if they changed the metalurgy in them or not. I do know they radiused the inside corner to reduce the stress on that area. Quite frankly, it just made it easier to spot the cracks once they got bad enough to see with the naked eye. That's just what I've found though. Once you crack a locking block, my advice would be to change out the recoil spring and barrel. The area of the barrel that the LB sits in also wears and opens up a gap. That is if the round count is getting up there. Do the Taurus' hammer pins have an enlarged head on the left side under the grip panel? Similar to the M9's after the modification work order?

I can't tell you how many locking blocks I've replaced on .mil M9 Beretta's. There are two styles of locking blocks, the original has sharp, square (90 degree) inside corners of the block's feet. The newer style, which is just as prone to fail, has the inside corners radiused. For any of you 92 clone, or 92 owners you should inspect the locking block feet for cracks every 500 rounds. If you can, have them magnafluxed. If not, use magnification and a bright light. Replace your recoil spring often as well. If you every see it cracked, deadline the gun until you can get a new part installed. I've seen frames completely ruined from a locking block that let go. ...and the M9 outperformed the Sig during the bid process many years ago.

I reread my post, I should specify that I bought a grip plug. Just a standard plastic grip plug. That is what I filled and then shaped. I took it out for Production class, but it is legal for GSSF and perhaps IDPA. Since the grip plug was $5, it really wasn't much of a risk.

I helped bump the price up, but declined to hit the go button at $1401.

This is the exact thing I'm going through right now. Light vs. Heavy. Recoil management vs. faster movement (percieved or real). After thinking about it, recoil management really just effects the split times. Faster movements effects the draw, split times and perhaps reloads. I really like the LDC look. But I really want the best tool, not the best looking tool. Maybe I'll just 'snazzy up' a STC gun with some holes and slots to take my focus off the plain-janeness of it.

He also used a plastic grip plug modified to act as a grip plug. I made one for my 34, now it sits in my 23. Works great, really does help. It's not as wide of course but front to rear you have a lot more room to throw the mag in. Fill plastic grip plug with acra glass with a drop of black die (mixed). Let set. Pull out dremel tool and go nuts. I filled with acra glass so that the grip plug was no longer hollow and allowed more aggressive shaping. If you were local I'd do it for you, for a nominal fee (beer). Caution on modifying the actual grip. It's thin, you don't want it too much thinner because of it getting beat up from botched reloads. My "duty gun" is totally trashed near the mag well from lots of practice. If you make it too thin you increase the damage factor. If your looking to flare the bottom of the grip to be more like a mag well, you're on your own. I haven't gone that far yet.

I had a .285 on my 34. I had to remove the rear sight springs, clip a coil off of each and reassemble. The rear sight would not go low enough and the when bottomed out the springs would bind. After shortening the springs the rear sight was resting on the slide and my POI was still slightly high at 25m. It was right on at 10-12, but kept climing as distance increased.

I can get 5 in mine. I don't know whether they are 3rd or 4th gen mag bodies. I trim the back, lower edge of the follower about 1/8th inch and I have a little room after 20. I can push it down about half the diameter of the round. It still doesn't reload as easily as when it has 19 in it but I can start a stage with 20+1 and reload with 19. The mag bodies required some work inside. The bottom of most mags had a lip that was preventing the follower from sliding past when loaded with more than 18. The follower would stick. I have the extended springs, next I'll try removing half a coil.

Is the steel match at Silver Creek a "go" for this month? I'll be in IN and can drive down for it.