jasond

It's a 357.

I sent my 627 to S&W in April because the threaded end of the extractor had split and spat my ejector rod onto the ground at a match, the barrel was screwed in too far and crooked, the hammer rubbed the frame, and the overtravel stop didn't touch. They sent it back with a mark in the frame from when the grinder slipped clearancing it for the hammer, and also with the trigger stud broken off in the frame! I called and emailed for a return sticker, and gave up waiting and sent it in. When I got it back, it had a new stud and a nice new finish, but it's extracting REALLY hard. I tried polishing the chambers with white rouge and then simichrome, but it didn't help much. The cases come out scratched. When I put in a fired case, it "pops" in! I'm going to bring my hole guages home tomorrow. Will they just send me a cylinder if I ask? I really don't want to send them the gun again, this is getting ridiculous!

Thanks for the numbers guys! I read up on the neodymium magnets and they are in fact nearly impossible to machine, they're nickel plated because they corrode very quickly, and that the dust from machining is very flammable. I think I'll try to make 1/2" work, and turn the posts to size. I made up a batch of these holders for my 627 a few years ago, they work great. I shoot it in production, and we had to have the holders behind the hip at the time, which made the adjustment very helpful.

I dunno how you guys can pull off major, how long and what powders?

Thanks! Those numbers disagree though! I found some 5/8" with a csk hole, should work.

I got mine back after the second attempt at repairing it, and they'd beadblasted the chambers while refinishing it. It's not extracting so well. I'm not sending it back for fear of what will happen next!

I'm building a set of moonclip holders for a friend's 686, and I need the max diameter of the post. Anybody with a set of calipers and a 686 6 shot handy?

It's very close to 9X19, .765" or so. It wasn't built for 9X19 pressure, but I've loaded cases 10X at 135 power factor without any issues.

I stuck an empty beer bottle in mine and took a heat gun to it. Works great, but it would have been nice if you could have gotten a gun into or out of it from the factory.

COL of DEWC or HBWC is flush with case mouth. Hornady's online data says 4.0 of 4756, but I'd try a faster powder.

Oh yeah, they also were to relieve the frame where the hammer was hitting it, near the firing pin. The grinder slipped, and marked the outside of the frame. They did turn it around very quickly, and paid shipping both ways. Can't beat that.

I'm kind of annoyed with them right now. A few months ago, I sent them my three year old 627 with a laundry list of defects, most of which they fixed to my satisfaction. One problem was that the overtravel stop on the trigger was nowhere near touching the frame, and the trigger had way too much overtravel. They put in a new hammer, still too much overtravel, and a rough pull as well. I popped the hood last week, and the trigger pivot pin was broken off in the frame. I've already sent it off to them. I assume they're pressed in? Will they have to replace the frame?

Where is the mouth of the case compared to the cannelure (crimp groove)?

Use the rock tumbler! I didn't have a tumbler for my first few months reloading, and I seperated media from brass with an old colander for a year. You don't want to run sand stuck to cases through your dies and gun. Tumbling it makes it easy to inspect, and ensures that there isn't any dirt on it. Invest in some calipers and a good scale, that's all you absolutely must have besides the press.

I've gotten a little less unburnt powder when using magnum primers, that's the only difference I can see. They're the same price, so I just use 200s for magnum loads, 100s for standard. I wouldn't worry about it unless using very slow powder. Federals have a soft/thin cup, and flatten/crater easily. I imagine a gun with a light spring won't fire a rifle primer every time.

Cool gun! Carry it? Surprisingly, at close range, increasing the velocity will normally make bullets shoot lower! Not nearly the difference as changing weights, though. Your choices are to live with it, switch to 148-158 bullets, or shorten the front sight to dedicate the gun to light bullets. Heavy bullets/fast powder makes for a more pleasant load anyway. 231 is slower than bullseye, but not much. It's cleaner, if that matters. I have an SP101, and in .357 I get slightly better velocity with slow magnum powders (H110, Blue Dot, 2400), and a huge increase in noise and recoil.

Built either monday morning or friday afternoon!

I handled one at the local gun show yesterday, and wasn't impressed with the grips. I'd get it if you like the feel of the barrel profile over the regular 686, but not for any other reason.

I have the Wollf springs and I'd be surprised if the Miculek ones are different. I bought them as spares in case I messed up or broke the originals. The factory main (hammer) spring in my 627 is identical to the Wollf. The factory main spring can be bent a little to weaken it, search the revo forum for instructions. The reduced trigger springs may be worth it, but you could still likely shorten them a little or just shorten the factory spring. Smoothing out the action makes more of a difference than the springs, light springs for me make any hitches in the action more noticable.

He had a pretty healthy wobble too.

I've found big differences in length (.015") and pressure between headstamps, but not much variance within them. Sticking Winchester cases in .357 pointed this out. I've sorted everything, but I never lose a case. I trimmed my .357s for a consistent crimp. Didn't make a bit of difference, except I don't have to reset the crimp die between brands of brass. I'd pick up a taper crimp die, and if you get bored, sort them.

Got 49 in trap a few weeks ago, and 25 again last night. I'm determined for 50 now! Skeet much more difficult-congrats!

The full name of the Texas Star is "The Texas Star of Humiliation". If you made it past that thing, you're doing fine!

I think I find about triple the split cases in my nickel brass than in the normal stuff! Sure is pretty, though.

I hope this style sticks around, should be easy for the cops to catch them.