jasond

Took the next door neighbor to the range to plink, shoots a single shot .22 rifle OK, not great. Shoots a dot sighted .22 pistol OK. Hand him an iron sighted .22 contender pistol, shoots near the top of the 25 yard berm, aiming near the bottom of it. I have him dryfire it, he's steady enough. "Top of front sight on target?" "Yep". "Lined up with the top of the rear sight?" "Rear sight?"

According to my American National Standard Institute book ANSI/SAMMI Z299.3-1993 -Maximum 9mm load is 35,000 and +p maximum is 38,500. as found on page 15. For .357 Magnum maximum load is 35,000 and for .38 Spl 17,000 and +p is 18,500. My 1993 version doesn't list 9x23 but it shows .38 Super as max pressure at 37,600. These numbers are Maximum Average Pressure (MAP) pages 15-16. This is the Piezoelctric Transducer System data. The CUP data actually lists .357 Mag as 45,000, and 9mm as 33,000 and .38 Super as 33,000 same as 9mm. MJ The difference between CUP and Piezo explains the grumblings about how .357 used to be hotter than it is now! I quick search of the internet didn't turn up any SAAMI specs for 9X23.

What's pressure on 9X23? I recall it's significantly higher than 9,.357, etc?

Mike, You're thinking of the Super Redhawk. I'm not sure the spacing of the holes in the cylinder is the same as a S&W, may need special clips. I've shot a few Redhawks, never owned one. The triggers on the Super Redhawks I've tried are much better than the regular Redhawks, don't much care for the factory grips on either, but they're accurate.

I have heard this theory before, but nobody has ever been able to reliably substantiate that this actual scnenario has ever occurred in the real world. And frankly, I can't see how a few granules of powder trickling through the flash hole (I shoot mostly Clays, I doubt if those flakes are even capable of trickling through) would create a real risk anyway. There are lots of things in the world to worry about. From my perspective, this ain't one of them. I like the rotate 180 and reseat idea, I'm going to try that. I sometimes get a kernel of walnut on the primer punch that dents a few of them, no incidents thus far. I think speed is the key to getting primers to light. Has anyone ever had a primer go off in the press? I trust you guys that a blowup is extremely unlikely, but might be a good time for safety gargles anyway?

$1.29 a box? I paid $40 for my last brick!

round nose bullets in a .357 case may hang out the front - check the first one! 231 is good, I also use red dot, clays. Bullseye is the best I've used for wadcutters, but it gets a bunch of soot all over the gun which wipes off easily.

I've had the chambers dirty enough to not drop ammo in after just a few hundred, depends in what junk I've been shooting in it (627). I use clays/ranier in short colt cases for uspsa, I'm sure I could run them forever without a problem. Cleaning the cylinder/making sure screws are tight is the only regular maintenance I see any point in doing. How often do the rest of you guys clean the thing?

Check out this stuff for wrapping grips. I used to have some I used on Glocks and it felt tacky when it was sweaty with a bit of give to it. I've been looking for a local source before I break down and order some to try myself. The pink camo, right?

It will work with the screw tightened back up. You could likely back it out, shorten one, or bend the spring to reduce the pull when you get the fed. primers, and get that light trigger back. Likely it was set to only use them, most people I've met have guns that will only use federal primers. There are tricks to getting the trigger even lighter. The only other thing that's ever caused me any grief was ammo that wouldn't chamber. Brush out the chambers at least before a match. Drop all of your loaded moons into the cylinder, make sure that they fall all of the way in easily. It's quick and easy to chamber check 6 at a time! 625 moonclips are strong, but they can still bend and cause the reload to bind and not fall in. Take care of these two things, and you won't have any surprises!

They tend to use rwd general motors because s10 lift kit parts work. I can't imagine those brakes will stop the thing!

Most everyone is using a stainless gun, sometimes with a ti cylinder. The R8 is aluminum with a stainless cylinder. That and the old farts that shoot revolvers don't want a bayonet lug. If you like it, buy it. Should make a decent nightstand gun with a light.

I made up a brass squib rod pressed into a short piece of 1-1/4" delrin, and thus far (knock on wood), I've loaned it out a half dozen times and never needed it myself. If it isn't stuck to bad, you can smack it with your palm and not need a hammer. Good karma to have one in your bag!

F200s light just as easily in my lightly sprung revolver as F100s, other pistol primers not so much. I'm thinking the cup is the same on mine, and Feds are the softest primers available. They're pretty beat looking after firing in full .357s, flattened and cratered, but other brands look OK, everything else is OK. Nothing on the box suggests otherwise, maybe they've changed? I'd for sure use them in 9 or 40, maybe reduce a couple tenths to start.

My club has nice little rubber pads to rest my O/U on instead of using my shoe! Really nice, because I normally show up in flip flops. When everyone is on the line, you just load up, nobody even says "range is hot" or anything. They've learned to tell me to load up because I'll look over my shoulder at the scorekeeper until he does. There's often someone in the traphouse refilling the machine!

Some might argue that production isn't "Beginner" division! There's some good shooters in it (I'm not one of them). I'd rather shoot major .40 in production than shoot a 226 in limited. He'll also have obtained the right gear when he does get his hands on some minor ammo. Good luck to him!

I dunno, but if you can figure out how to make primers, let me know.

At the local trap match, a new shooter had a fail to feed with an auto (imagine that), turned around to hear what the scorekeeper was telling him, and continued rotating back to downrange, full 360, while trying to get the round to chamber. Yikes! An "official" talked to him, after I discretely asked him to. It just doesn't seem to be a big deal to the shotgunners. I don't mind opened doubles pointed every which way so much, though. I shoot silhouette also, and we use open bolt flags whenever not shooting, carry them muzzle high, etc. so it's pretty safe. I don't think any game can match USPSA's protocol, though.

I didn't notice when I popped the hood on mine, but with the frame being aluminum, it looks like the stud is kind of riveted from the inside, not part of the frame. Cool! I put springs in mine and dryfired it some, the trigger isn't bad for a carry gun. The sights are the big hangup on it, but hey, it fits in my pocket!

I purchased lee 3 die carbide set. I heard somewhere that it is not good to seat the bullet and crimp it in the same operation is this true? The only thing I have available to me is Remington 5 1/2 primers they are magnum primers, can I use them? If yes how? I have a pound of N350 and Titegroup and planning to buy some Precision Delta bullets. Suggestions for practice bullets? 115 gr or 124? I'd be looking at lead for practice, can't beat the price. USPSA shooters tend towards heavy bullets, but if you're just learning, it won't make much difference. Are those rifle primers? Either way, I wouldn't use them until you can identify signs of pressure and have some experience working up loads. They may work, but better to not play with fire! I load and shoot about 250 rounds of 9mm a week. Is it worth getting Dillon SDB? At least! I love mine, but the dies are particular to it and pricey. You may be better served with a 550 or 650, you can crank out rifle on it, and use standard dies. The single stage will come in handy, leave it on your bench! Powder burn rates? Why use N350 vs. N320 powder? I assume N350 burns slower develops higher velocity? What should I use for practice ammo as powder selection goes? Slow powder kicks more and costs more because it takes more. Use N320, clays, w231, etc. or the TG you have for minor. I shoot at an indoor range with shooting lanes very close to each other; running around picking up brass is not really an option. Any suggestions for catching brass? Get a revolver. Btw the pistol is a CZ-75 PCR 4" barrel well 3.9" My first goal is to learn how to shoot well before I try competition of any kind. If you wait to compete, your fellow competitors will help you to unlearn whatever bad habits you've picked up shooting by yourself. If you're safe, much better to enter some matches and skip that step! You can watch the better shooters, ask questions, and just go throught the stage slowly. We point and laugh at each other when we mess up and know why, but new shooters are welcomed and not judged. Bought a .22 Sig mosquito but the only thing it will eat is CCI-mini mag which I cant find anywhere. It mauls regular lead bullets smashes them against the ramp and deforms the bullet or wedges bullet at 45 angle, does it with the CCI mini mags too once in a while. Likely mag problem. Make them fix it or at least try another mag, it shouldn't do that. .22s can be finicky, but most ammo should work most of the time. Some guns, especially when new, will stovepipe with subsonic ammo, but feedramp jams are different. Subsonic lrn is the most accurate, by the way.

I've thought about shooting L10 once or twice with my 627 (357), same caliber restriction as limited? Looking at the results, there are only a few L10 entries in a monthly match, and I stand a chance of winning. I may as well just shoot it minor, would just be fun to come up with a major load for the gun. I'm imagining that S&W puts .357 barrels on these things, have the previous ones been as accurate as the ones in .357?

Give some wadcutters a try if you can find any, either double ended or hollow base. They're very likely the most accurate bullet you'll ever try in a 38, and they have very little recoil as the standard target load is only about 7-800 fps. I've never heard of S&S castings, but 158 rnfp should work well enough. 231 should be perfect for either of these.

3.4 clays, 1.150, berrys or ranier, lite crimp accuracy isn't too great, but it makes pf easily you may need less powder for a lead bullet.

My snubbies seem to prefer hotter loads, but I don't use anything lighter that 148 wadcutters. Lighter bullets will shoot lower to the sights than heavier ones. My 640 and sp101 both shoot light bullets below the sights, they both shoot 158s where they are supposed to @25 yards.

I live in sunny Florida, and CLP runs right out of the gun on a hot day. As stated, jack of all trades, master of none.