Guninhand

Thanks for all the info. I'll be retired soon and want to spend all summer driving to shoots. Life is good.

Just wondering, what wold be the round count for Summer Blast, York PA, July 14-15, and for Area 7/AWARE, Morrisville VT, July 21-22. What's the match fee for Area7/AWARE? What does AWARE stand for? How many competitor slots are there for each? Do they fill up fast?

Thanks for those very comprehensive replies. Blacking out the FS seems like the next thing to try. I'm noticeably slowed down picking up a black FS on a blued gun, but the gold bead is on a 610 classic. I've got a FO coming for a 625-3, so I'll get to apply on your advice.

Thanks for the answers. It's just that Federals can be hard to come by where I live and because of the threat of handgun bans and such I try to buy large quantities when I can, and if I could use the rifle stuff in my revolvers it would ease logistic problems.

On the stock revolver, I had the bullet hitting just on top of the front sight. When I put on a gold bead front sight, I couldn't shoot that way anymore, my eye wanted to look at the gold bead. So I got the bullet hitting in the center of the gold bead. But now when I shoot, the gold bead/rest-of-the-front -post does a lot to obscure the target, especially beyond 30 yds, my accuracy seems to have deteriorated. What's the conventional aiming strategy with a gold bead?

When a revolver is tweaked to fire on Federal primers only, will it still fire if small rifle/large rifle are substitued for small pistol/large pistol? Search function didn't work.

I'm Canadian and will be shooting a 4in 625 at the 2007 Nats in BC. There's some kind of big time US shoot close by in Washington state a week later and I'll be going there too. A good source of general info and keeping up to date is to subscribe to www.canadiangunnutz.com. There is a forum on action shooting games. If there's 10 or more revo folk, you'll stand a good chance to win a President's medal.

Almost any incomming that's close to straight in, because in order to lead the clay, the barrel must obscure the clay, and you can't see what your lead is when the trigger is pulled.

I have the Limcat "ghost" holster for my 610. I doubt there is a faster holster. Not very useful off range, though.

I've been shooting 10mm in a Glock20 for 12 yrs and a 610 for 3 yrs, mostly at a 180 power factor. I always have flat primers.

I'm pretty much stuck to #1 buck because I'm making my own buckshot from a Do-It mold and wheelweights, 11 pellets a throw. The patterns are reasonably uniform. Also the pellets self-arrange in the shot cup, so loading by hand is not frustrating. I was hoping there would be a consensus on wether 9 pellets or 12 would be the better choice. I'm shooting in Canada and for local matches almost anything goes. If someone knows of a safety issue, such as these pellets being prone to bounce-back instead of disintegrating, I'd appreciate hearing about it.

Hi folks, I'm reloading 12ga hulls with #1 buckshot (.30 inch diameter) and I want the optimum for knocking down IPSC plates and poppers. So what is better, a load of 9 pellets, or 12?? If I use 9, I'll have less recoil. If I use 12, perhaps a better chance at downing the further plates, but with more recoil. Should I make up both, 9 pellet loads for close and 12 for farther out? Gun has 20 in. barrel with full choke (screw on, can be changed)

Aren't Hearthco moon clips made of spring steel, so you could bend them somewhat without ruining them. I've got 12 but I'm not willing to risk one finding out.

I run a 610 as well, but my reloads are not smooth. I've pretty well resigned myself to the fact that with an unavoidable slow time, my only chance to best fellow revo competitors is to get most of the points in a stage. This fatalistic attitude seems to actually help, as with it my scores are good but when I sense a glimmer of hope I speed up and screw up. Another way to describe this fatalistic attitude is, I tell myself I'm not really in an IPSC competition. No. My job is simply to get all As and never miss a steel

I had a bunch of misfires with 10mm in a 610 using winchester primers and the apparent culprit was the material the moon clips were made of. I was using the polymer type and apparently there was enough cushion to prevent ignition. This failure went away when the Hearthco clips were used. I didn't do any thickness measurements. The polymers are reliable with Fed large pistol primers in 10mm.

I shot a level III on the weekend and one of the competitors remarked how he hoped I wouldn't be on his squad cause revo shooters are so slow. As it turned out he was in with the whiners and they did so many reshoots they finished 3 hours later than my squad on the last day. As he walked past me where I was sitting in the shade (bored silly) I mentioned to him that he couldn't have kept up if I'd been shooting a muzzle loader.

I too used the Brownell reamer with a guide for .40 cal. There were some light chatter marks so I got a bag of marbles from the $1 store and used the ones of the right diameter along with 400 and 600 grit clover compound to smooth the marks out

Thanks guys. One more uncertainty removed.

Hi folks, It's a litle late in the day to be asking this question, but it has to do with thumb placement when shooting revolver. The FAQs seem to deal with the semis only. I read somewhere that for a right handed revolver shooter, the right thumb is crossed over the left thumb, and pointing forward, and the left thumb is up near the back of the topstrap (presumably not touching the frame). Someone told me that he keeps both thumbs pointing forward as if he was shooting a semi. This is to get use to the one style of gripping. Now I find if I grip the gun just a tiny bit lower (on a 610), my left thumb can touch the thumblatch (in a loose and relaxed way) and is poised for a faster reload. Is there a consensus on the correct revolver grip?

I went to the shoot and took the 610 and the mdl 19. It was raining and I was going to ask to shoot twice if there was a low turnout. There wasn't, so I went with the 610 and I get half the primers not igniting on the first stage. The load is using .40 brass with Winchester primers, from the same brass/primer batch that I fired around 300 practice rounds with 2 days before with no misfires. The only difference was in practice I used blue steel moon clips, but my match ammo has the polymer clips. This was my first time using them, and it looks like there is just enough cushion in them to make Winchester primers unreliable. I'll confirm this later with a side by side comparison. So, I got to shoot the mdl19 after all. The end result was no pain and no gain. The heavier recoil slows down splits, you have to remember to grip strongly and bear down as heavily as you can. On one classifier I got 4 As and a C in 5.6? seconds and the closest semi on my squad got 5 As in 5.8?seconds. I was using Safariland speedloaders and the thumblatch interferes with reloading, it takes a precise lining-up to get the rounds ejected in. I think the loud noise is the real reason people who don't use a 4in .357 don't want others them using them.

From rimfirecentral.com I got the idea of "speedloaders" for a Remington Nylon 66, tubes pre-charged with ammo where when shooting you just dump it directly into the gun's magazine. They worked great, esp. for at the range or shooting in cold weather. Load them up at home, 40 or 50 tubes X 14 rds each. So I thought why not do the same with revolver. I got some PVC water piping with an inner diameter just over that if a .38 case, cut them so they could hold 12 rds of .357 (using them for .38 and 357), put a short screw across the bottom and the body of a .308 case plugs the top. Load them up at home, 30 or 40 tubes. When at the range, just unplug and dump the first 6 in, sweep it around to the charge holes or hold the tube steady and rotate the cylinder with your thumb, as the rounds drop in under gravity. Tip the tube back up and lay it down while you shoot the first six. I keep a shotgun shell holder clipped to the front of my belt to dump the empties into. With hanging steel targets you can just blaze away without the annoying one-at-a-time type reloading, The gun can get pretty hot, plus with some ammo types in the tubes, the bullet nose can be touching the primer of the next one, so no rough handling.

Hi folks, A 6.5 inch 610 is my competition gun, but I have a nice, tight little 4 inchKframe model 19 that I've never used in competition, plus I've shot .38 special in competition but not .357 mag. In the next local competition I'm thinking of sacrificing the practice and experience of handling my 610, practice I need, for the thrill of shooting the 19 with .357 rounds. My shooting buds say I'll just hurt my hands and burn my fingers. So, anyone shoot .357 in a light gun and like it?

Aw geez. Solution found. Tonight when I got home had a second look. I had the cartridges inserted bassakwards. The first moonclip I picked up I automatically assumed the all-flat part faced rearward. This is worse than being DQ'd

Hi folks, I just got some Rimz moonclips for my 610 and when loaded the cylinder won't close. I can put in 2 and get it to close by having them rotated to the top, but no cylinder closure if all six cuts are filled. It appears a case head is just barely fetching up at the bottom of the frame window. Is this problem common? I plan to fix it by sanding the moonclips on a flat surface so the overall thickness is reduced uniformly. What I'm wondering is how much clearance should I aim for? .0005 inch? .001 inch? Something else?

Using Clays could be tricky, due to it's fast speed. Check out http://home.columbus.rr.com/jmaass/documents/hl40sw.pdf They discuss .40S&W loads.