practical_man

Shouldn't be a problem with .300 front sight. If it is, BT will fix it for you. They fixed an older 1911 holster for me when I wen to a taller sight. Good folks.

Brad, I use a blade tech DOH standard holster. These holsters are very usefl and of good quality. Can adjust for cant, and remove drop feature for hunting well designed and well built . I am still using the BT 1911 holster I bought about 15 years ago. That holster has been used on many deployments and still going strong. That's what gave me the confidence to buy BT models for other pistols and revolvers. Am currently using BT holster for all revolvers. I think these are the best holster value for a utility use. Not a race holster, but very good for most anything. You can mod it to fit your dot mount if necessary. They are cut pretty low to start with. With a hair dryer and a Drexel tool you will have exctly what you want. -john

You would think they would run batches like this occasionally. The do small runs of unusual stuff for Lew Horton now and then, but not to the extent that Ruger and others do. Would really like to get introduced to S&W marketing guys. There is money to be made in smaller runs of unique purpose built stuff. Until then, I will just have to rely on Warren to build me what I want. Might have to get a part time job... -john

Tanzer that is a nice set up. 306 is a pretty small number to satisfy the population. Ought to be a regular production item. Thanks for the great bit of trivia

It is good lube. Stays put and lubes well. I have used the light version on pistols and over-under shotguns for years. A tub will last you a very long time. It is much better than lithium grease of the common viscosities. -john

Alex You should check extractor tension. Once set it should not change, though the extractor may rotate or "clock" a bit if the firing pin stop is too loose fit in the ejector. Clocking can cause what you describe. Also check ejector for damage or looseness. This can cause what you describe as well. Does this symptom occur if you drop magazine before firing last round? If not, it is likely magazine related. Got Kuhnhausens 1911 book? Volume 1 is helpful in troubleshooting.

Zoom Pretty tight is relative. Blue won't add much at all. Parkerizinf or chrome can add a few thousandths, as noted. Unless you need to drive in in with a big hammer now you should be fine. If you take a little more off now the set screws and some blue loctite will sure keep it where you put it What finish are you planning? Oddly curious.

Very nice work.

Mmosur I have a lone wolf in my glock 21. It works just fine and is as accurate as the factory barrel out to 50 yards using H&G 130 cast from wheel weights and 3.8 grains of Hodgdon Clays. Very minor fitting of hood required for my particular pistol. Took all of 30 seconds with a fine file to break the leading edge of the hood. No need to finish ream chamber or anything else. No problems so far but I only have a couple thousand rounds on that barrel. I think you will be happy with the LW barrel in the Glock 19 at ranges appropriate for that gun. KKM is a god bit more expensive. I have shot a good bit of lead (at least 10K rounds) through my factory 9mm glock barrels with no I'll effects - no excessive or unusual leading and no ka-booms. I think there is a lot of folklore and legend about not using lead in glock barrels. My experience just hasn't borne out the rumors in 9mm and 45 ACP. Might be different in 40 S&W or 357 Sig; don't know because I don't shoot those calibers. All that said, I am currently trying to decide between KKM and BarSto gunsmith fit for my Glock 34. If Lone Wolf made an oversize barrel for gunsmith fit, I would buy that without a second thought. Just my opinion based on my experience. - John

The actual work took several hours. We scheduled it a few months ago. Warren is very busy with his regular business that pays the bills and a backlog of gun work. It was well worth the wait and he's a great guy to work with. I always get what I want, even if I don't know exactly what to ask for. If you ask me, he is the real Performane Center for Smith and Wesson revolvers. - John

0326- Thanks for explaining your rationale. I sure a heck can't get any glock that shots sub 3 inch groups at 50 yards. The will hold the black on a bullseye target if I am lucky. That, and shooting lead, are the reason I am thinking about a new barrel. I am probably an average shooter, ranked expert by the Army and NRA conventional pistol. Don't think Gunny Zins is too worried about me getting in his way. Thanks again, -John

Looks like a nice set up. I hAve been using Ed' Red with good results for a long time. Flammable but effective and cheap. Hasn't harmed plastic guns yet but I don't let the plastic pars soak in it either. . A 50/50 mix of Automatic Transmission Fluid and mineral spirits is almost. As effective. It doesn't dissolve the carbon but is very good penetrating solution. Sort of floats the crud out in a filthy suspension. Doesn't smell too bad either. Brass or plastic toothbrushes as appropriate for scrubbing surfaces.

Wanted to share a pic of my modified Smith & Wesson model 617. As you might imagine, I am indescribably happy with the result of Warren Moore's metal artistry. Here's the story. I had a 6 shot 617 years ago, and gave it to a relative. I've missed that revolver every since, and looked high and low for a replacement. No luck, so I finally broke down and bought one of the 10-shot versions. Found out that it was a little too heavy to shoot well with one hand, as in Conventional Pistol. I called Warren to schedule the project of taking some weight off the front end so that the center of gravity would be a little closer to my shooting hand. Didn't really know what I wanted or how to describe it to Warren. Well after a good wait, my turn finally came to spend some time at Protocol Designs. I did my best to describe to Warren what I was trying to accomplish. Then he started his magic. He took some measurements, looked at one of his revolvers, twisted the barrel out of the frame and set it up in the mill. Chips flew as the machine was guided by his steady hand and artistic eye -- no cnc program here, just a skilled machinist and great shooter making the mill do what he wanted. He even re-engraved the factory markings on the barrel flats. Fantastic work and a real joy to see him take a vague description and transform it to reality in metal. The picture doesn't do justice to the work -- will try to get better pix up at some point. This revolver is exactly what I wanted to accomplish. Balances perfectly in one hand, and is a beauty to behold. And with Warren's fiber optic sight set it's nearly perfect for anything I will use a rimfire revolver for. Yes, an unabashed plug for Warren's sights too. They're great target sights, with the bonus of fiber optic to help keep track of the front sight. Some might ask what it cost to have this done. Well--- since my wife might run across this post --- let's just say that you can buy a WHOLE BUNCH of powder and primers with the same amount of money. In the end, it was well worth the price and the wait to get a place on his busy schedule. I am certain that I got a bargain and great value. I would certainly do it again; not sure that Warren would say the same. It turned out great and I am thrilled with the result. Now to find a 6 shot cylinder to complete the transformation. Thanks Warren! This is a true work of functional art. -john

Lee Moe Hard to visualize what you are describing. A little end shake is ok, a lot is not good. The ejector rod is not press fit. It should move freely, under spring pressure. I would disassemble and clear cylinder assembly. apply a drop or two of blue loctite on the ejector rod And re assemble. That should cure the most common binding I have encountered. If ends hake is more than a couple thousandths I would fix it. -john

If your going to do a barrel swap, Throw in a Bar Sto. No sense in going half way. Bar Sto accuracy and quality are hard to touch. They are certainly better than Wolf or KKM. Why do you say this? I'm considering putting an aftermarket barrel in my Glock 34 right now. I have used Bar Sto and Kart for 1911's; got better results from Kart. Don't really want to do discovery learning with the glock.

I like the 38 special versions best...model 67 and model 10 currently. Wish I could luck into a $275 model 14 for bullseye. -john

These are made by ToolGuy -- Protocol Design.

Call Toolguy. You won't be disappointed. You might get addicted. Have them on 2 k-frames, 1 n-frame and will likely install them on others soon. -john

I have done it on surplus rifles to reduce leading. Soft cast bullets and grinding compound. Not rocket science but you have to be careful. If your barrel isn't pitted I would not do it. What problems are you trying to fix with fire lapping?

Looks good. No reason not to make it your own so long as it stays safe

Pin- ThAts a very nice pistol. Any of e major houses can do that for you. I would offer that you can easily remove the offending sharp edges yourself with a little fine sandpaper backed by a smooth hard surface and touch it up with a little 44-40 cold blue. If your shooting it at all you will get some holster wear. No need to pay for a reblue until it gets bad. 44-40 works pretty well. Another option is rust blue. Both solutions are available from Brownells. I use and like both for different jobs. - john

Twister I would trust Warren on this one. Not hard, but you definitely need the right tools or a whole bunch of good luck. Cheaper to pay to have one done than to buy the wrench. Of course, if you are doing more than one tool cost amortizes quickly. No need to be afraid of this job.

Thanks Warren. If my math is correct, each click moves the blade ~ .002". Would like to talk to you about holsters next time I get down your way. Looking for a universal revolver rig that will accomodate K, L, and N frame. -john

Impressive work. Your ball detent is a neat idea.

Does anyone know the thread pitch for windage and elevation on Smith & Wesson revolver rear sights? Thanks, -john