Speedwagon

Does anyone know where I can get a thumbrest slidelock for a 2011 that would lock the slide back after the magazine is empties. My gun is built to lockback and I have the lockback style magazine inserts. Respectfully, I'm not looking for opinions on why I shouldn't need or want one or why it won't work but only where I can find one to purchase. Thanks.

Glad to see that I'm not the only one! I shot mostly 1911s before I started to compete three years ago and love the platform. Before the X5 I shot a Sig P226 SAO in IDPA and was used to the safety. At this point I'm mostly interested in USPSA I need to iron out some other things with my Titan like no slidelock with the thumbrest slidelock, mag adjustment, holster issues and making power factor. With a major match coming up this weekend I decided to stay with the X5 but plan on moving forward next week. I'm just a retired older high C shooter that's been shooting USPSA for a couple years and really enjoying it. Yea, and as an older shooter...love ICORE too! Happy shootin!

That's how it makes weight for IDPA CO and it fits in the box.

Interesting topic. I ordered my Titan in April and just got it last week. I've been shooting a Sig X5 Legion and didn't expect the transition from the striker platform to the 2011 to be as difficult as it is...for me anyway. I started shooting with 1911s and always missed that platform and was happy to see the Atlas lineup. I've been shooting the Sig for a couple of years and I have a couple of major matches this year so I'm going to stick with Sig for them and then work at the switch. I want to move to LO and was going to use the Sig for a backup but seeing the difference was now thinking Athena or maybe Artemis and use the Titan as a backup and also for IDPA since it'll make weight for that. Although, with the rules in IDPA I'm learning more towards USPSA only. As a benefit, I live about 1 1/2 hours drive from Atlas and drove there, felt some guns, got a tour of the facility and ordered my Titan right there. I'm a retired Toolmaker and was super impressed with how the facility is tooled up with all top of the line equipment and personnel.

Thanks all, this pretty much what I had in mind, a table with fault lines but thought I saw something somewhere that gave a specific layout. With the IDPA rules now it just seems like everything has to be 'by the book' so just wanted to be sure.

I thought I remember once before finding safe table perimeter marking designations somewhere, or at least I think I did. I've Googled and searched again in IDPA and USPSA rules for designations but can't find anything. Are there "official" perimeter designations or basically just common sense markings?

Interesting post. I've been thinking of switching to 124gr PD JHPs but wasn't sure which if I should go with the original or V2s. Looks like the preference so far is V2? Edit: I was looking on the PD website the other day and they had both original and V2. Looking just now, V2 is the only available. Looks like they made my mind up for me.

This was the same time scenario for me. I ordered in August last year and just got it last week. Well worth the wait.

Good to know! My AMG was just delivered to me a few days ago and have been anxious to try it out. Will try it with a 9MM laser cartridge too.

The early version of "Electronic Hearing Protection"?

I hadn't thought about the Lee, I'll look at them. I don't use the flare feature, instead use a Redding flare die that I like better. I didn't realize the the Dillon had an anti double charge mechanism, will look into that too. For now I've been using an RCBS Lockout die to prevent double charge and no charge and thinking about a Double Alpha Powder Check. Thanks for the info!

There are a few things I check before I start loading and linkage fasteners is one but like I mentioned in my post, adding Loctite has kept things snug. Also as I mentioned...I just don't care for the linkage and wondering what there is available that doesn't use said mechanism to drop powder. Thanks.

I'm currently using a Hornady Powder measure system in my Hornady LNL progressive press. At times the linkage will loosen and will get sloppy. I've locktited some but just don't like all the linkage. I'm wondering if the Dillon Powder Measure system will work. It looks like it will but wondering if anyone else is using one in the Hornady press. Also wondering if anyone has found any other powder measure system that works in the Hornady press.

Bringing this old topic up after a search. I'm wondering what other people use to mount their Ransom Rest to. I have the base and attach it to a bench but not sure the bench is substantial enough to hold it steady. I'd like to mount a post in the ground just for this purpose but wondering if I really need to go through that amount of work. If anyone has pictures of their mount I'd like to see them. Thanks.

I knew exactly what he meant !

I installed one of the SA kits in one of my X5 Legions and super happy with the feel of the trigger now. I had the Gray Guns competition kit in it but it the trigger still felt "mushy". I'm not sure I want to spend the 300 to put one in my back up gun. I use these video's and found them to work best for me. Sig Guy disassembly. Sig Guy reassembly. Along with his tool kit. Hope this helps.

Not an armorer block but I bought one of these kits from Sig Guy to work on my 320s and 365s. He has different variations of the kit but I just went for the whole full kit. As mentioned...not needed but definitely makes life easier. Sig Guy Disassembly and Reassembly kit.

I use a FW Arms universal decapping die in a Lee APP press to decap all my cases before wet tumbling. You'd be surprised to see all the junk that comes out with the primers that would normally be washed out in the tumbling process. Personally, I'd rather not run the dirty cases through my press and dies so I do that first by itself. I'm retired so I have enough time and take the longer route to reload. First dry tumble for and hour to get most of the range dirt out. Then decap and then wet tumble in the Franklin Arsenal tumbler with the Franklin brass cleaner and spread out on a towel with a fan over it to dry overnight about 1000 cases at a time (9mm). Then rollsize. Then a quick spray of lanolin and alcohol mixture in a zip lock bag and drop in about 200 cases and mix around before sizing and size and prime about 1000 at a time and put on a shelf for when I'm ready to load. I usually load about 500 at a sitting. Maybe no need to do it all in that order but that's what I like to do.

I use a RCBS Lockout die. I watch closely but feel better having a double check. In case of a no charge or double charge it locks the press out and stops the ram from makinga full stroke. Setup is a pain to figure out but once you do, it's easy.

I got an email from Midway today, they're in stock. I ordered the whole kit and kabodal. Kinda bothered me that you order $800 worth of merchandise and still have to pay shipping but I wanted to get one while they're still in stock since I've been waiting so long. This is the Bluetooth model.

This is interesting. I've been noticing that "flare" on my 9MM brass and was wondering what might be causing it. I also have been using stainless steel pins when wet tumbling and recently bought some of this media but haven't tried it yet. It seemed the crimp die was taking it out and they are gauging fine so I didn't worry about it. Since I have more of the Frankford brass cleaner I'll try that without pins or other media and see how it comes out and eventually may try some Brass Juice.

I've been running the Gray Guns competition kit with the Armory Craft Semi Curved trigger in my X5 Legion and it's much better than OEM but still a bit "sluggish". I think I'm going to try an Sig Armour kit with the Cradle Trigger. I'm a fan of the SA having sent him 5 or 6 guns for a Competition Trigger job and have always been super pleased with the end result. I'll report back with my opinion.

I had the same dulling issue with the Lemishine and detergent mixture. I read somewhere that the citric acid causes this on brass. I switched to the Frankford Brass Cleaner and my brass looks better than factory brass and stays that way. I tumble in a Frankford wet tumbler with pins, about 1000 cases at a time for 2 hours. I never heard of Brass Juice though I might try some next time I need some. So, some say all this work is only to make brass shiny but I don't see it that way. I dry tumble my brass for 2 hours, decapp and then wet tumble. The water that comes out of the wet tumbler looks like mud so if I didn't wet tumble I'd be putting all that crap through my dies and gun. This is just me, we all have our own preferences.

I accidentally mixed some one time. Almost full one pounder of Titegroup and something else. I gave it to my local Sheriff's office. They use it for K9 explosive training.

Interesting stuff, thanks folks!