Speedwagon

So you're saying you use USPSA targets in the in the ICORE WSB and just change the scoring?

I'm fairly new to ICORE and starting ICORE at our club. I find a fair amount out there for USPSA and IDPA stage design but can't find anything for ICORE. Hopefully folks and suggest what to use. I'm not looking to build stages with 3D printed props just yet, just something like Sketchup has for USPSA with stage designs and descriptions for Written Stage Briefings. Thanks all!

I have a process where I decap, size, prime and flare cases before I load them. To decap I use an FW Arms Universal Decapping die with their .052" diameter decapping pin. It's still a little harder to push the primers out of the Norma cases but it's doable and I haven't broken a pin yet.

I just don't get why S&W doesn't include this in the manufacturing process. It literally takes less than a minute and can easily be a done while being made. The gun is intended to be used in competition and has Jerry Miculek's signature on it yet they won't include small details that make a big difference in performance. Just proves their Performance Center and JM signature adds nothing to the quality of their guns. Thanks for the replies all...my cylinder is on it's way to TK.

Oh yeah, makes sense but I've already done that. Would've done the cylinder myself too but since I retired I don't have access to the machines to do it. Still glad I'm retired though!

I'm thinking about sending my cylinder to TK Custom to have the cylinder chamfered. I was just wondering if anyone knows of anyone else that does it and what their experience was like. Thanks.

I use an FW Arms decapper with their .053" decapping pin. It's still a little difficult on the Norma brass but it gets them out. This decapper is universal so it works on all caliber pistol brass. I'm really pleased with it.

Thanks for the replies people! I ordered three of the Henning extensions.

I purchased some Springer Precision mag extensions to increase my 17 round Sig mags for my P320 X5 Legion and with the extensions I purchased the Grams Extra Capacity Kit to increase my capacity to 23 instead of 22 for USPSA. I can get the 23rd round in the mag but I really have to work at it. If I top off and have one in the chamber, after I fire the first round it has problems stripping the first round out of the mag and it won't go into battery. I'm using a 12# recoil spring and would rather not go to 14# just because of this because it runs fine otherwise.I'm wondering if it would work better if I bought Henning extensions and used the Grams Extra Capacity Kit with them I would get a real working 23 round mag.Is anyone out there using the Henning extensions with the Grams Extra Capacity Kit and getting a full 23 round mag capacity and the gun still runs fine? I'd just like to hear from people that actually use them before I spend the cash on them instead of just believing what they post on the web site like Springer did.Thanks all...happy shootin!

Google info, I plan to explore this. Thanks

I used to use Sport Pistol but I'm out of it and can't find any now.. I picked up some VV N320 this weekend and have some Cleanshot so I'll see what I get with those. Probably use Titegroup for local matches and whichever is more consistent for major matches.

Good info, thanks. I'm going to do more comparison of different temps but I still want to find out what I did wrong to make the whole difference.

They were using a double optic. I did see a slight difference but at that time I was so dumbfounded and frustrated I didn't know what to think. I do know it was about 80 FPS lower than what I chronoed them at. I'm definitely going to bump my load up to closer to 135PF. Don't want this to happen again. Lesson learned.

Shooting the Area 6 Championship and get to the chrono stage and power factor comes to 121. I'm thinking to myself WTF! My loads is 3.2 grains of Titegroup with a 147 grain Berrys RN bullet. I chronoed them and got a power factor 130 with the lowest muzzle velocity of 20 rounds and I've shot many matches with this load and always made power factor. I loaded them in my basement at 70 degrees and when we got to the chrono stage it was about 45 degrees so I figure the temperature difference could be what made part of the difference, but not that much. I usually check my powder drop about every 20-30 rounds by calibrating my scale and rezeroing it. I still have some of the ammo left so I'm going to put some in the fridge and keep some warm to see just what the difference comes out to. I'm going to compare my chrono readings with a friends too but what really baffles me is that I've used this load at many other matches and never came close to having a problem at chrono. I need to find out what went wrong so this doesn't happen again!! I was able to shoot the rest of the match but my score didn't count. I had fun but still baffled anb disappointed with what happened.

I haven't come across this yet but probably would`ve tossed them if I had. Thanks!

Never knew about these, good info. Just ordered them.

I'm fairly new to reloading, I'm assuming this is stepped brass? I've only seen this in steel cases that I discard. The FW Arms decapper with the small pin does a good job on the Norma cases.

I had the same issue after less than 1000 clean brass cases with the same machine. Sent it back for a full refund.

I stand corrected!! While I've cleand in the past this way and never experienced what psky2 described, I did this morning taking some out of the tumbler. Was a real PITA so in the future I'll demoon first and like vvshooter suggested and zip tie the moonclips or throw them with the brass and see how that does.

This is what's in my Rollsizer manual in regard to undersized dies: Reload normally using standard sizing dies (do not use undersized or small base circle sizing dies).

I tumble with corn cob media all the time and have never had that problem.

I toss mine in the tumbler with the brass still in them. Everything comes out smooth and clean.

All very interesting; I had the same thing happen to me in a match in fall of 2019 with my X5 Legion and I just stumbled on this thread. It destroyed the frame and I never found my Lone Wolf extractor. As another said, if I did find it I probable wouldn't reuse it. I never came to a final conclusion as to what caused this to happen. Others have suggested it could have been a double charge but I use an RCBS lockout die that locks the press if you have a no charge or double charge. I use 147 grain BlueBullets with Titegroup powder which is a fast burning powder. I've since fired many rounds from the same gun with same loads since repaired and haven't had any issues. This gun is actually my backup as I have another that I use mainly in matches and practices and have never had an issue with the main gun. I've recently ordered a Bar-Sto barrel for my main gun and it has yet to be delivered but when in install it I'll compare fired cased from the factory to Bar-Sto.

Not sure we're comparing apples to apples here. The OP mentions "the GG trigger" and changing just the trigger won't change the feel as much as the full GG Competition Trigger Kit installation. Does he mean just the trigger or full Competition Trigger kit? Personally, when I installed the Competition Trigger Kit it made a big difference and well worth the time and effort. I sold the trigger that came with the kit and installed an Armory Craft dual adjustable trigger. That's just my preference. Just an FYI...Armory Craft discourages installing their dual adjustable trigger with the Apex trigger bar. I never did clarify why they did, I just went with their recommendation.