jejb

The non-spring version does not throw them far at all. The bin I linked to above sits right under that station and will catch them. The spring loaded version throws them about a foot. For the 1050/1100, it's handy because you'd otherwise have to take them off by hand at station #3. So you'd have to pull the handle through a stroke, let go of the handle, grab the brass and put it in a bin/bag/etc, grab the handle and repeat. That's assuming a process where you don't want to change the toolhead between runs which, again, is not a cheap or trivial thing to do on a 1050/1100. With this device, you never have to let go of the handle. Just cranks them out. If you've never owned or run one of these presses and processed necked cartridges with it, it may not make sense.

I just put a bin, like the one that comes stock on an 1100 (link below), under station 3. They fall right in. I have another version that has a spring in it. Same design, just a slightly different material and the small spring. That one kicks them out the side about a foot. Again, I just put that same bin about a foot to the right and they all pop right in there. Just did 300 this morning. https://www.dillonprecision.com/cartridge-bins-for-rl-1050-reloader_8_10_24016.html

I guess it depends on how you process your brass. I use the brass kicker after sizing as part of my process on my 1100. I then clean all the sized/deprimed brass and trim/chamfer as needed. Once they are all prepped, they will go back through the same toolhead (with sizing die and kicker removed) to get swaged and loaded. I have locking die nuts on my dies, so it's simple to get them back to the same spot. I don't see how a separate toolhead would help my process at all, compared to my current process. They are not trivial to change on a 1050/1100. Autodrive is not required. I do not have one.

No, the handle does not get in the way. It is past the ejection port by the time the shell gets kicked out.

I use a 3D printed device like what warpspeed posted in the above thread.

As Sarge says, it does do that. I am pretty indiscriminate about picking up range brass. If it's 9mm and not that ZQI stepped case crap, I'll use it. Most of the failures I used to see in my Hundo were bottom of the casing issues. Almost entirely gone now.

As I mentioned above, I use 2 sizing dies in my 1100. The Lee U die is the 2nd one, in station 3, as the title of this thread suggests. I don't notice any increase in effort required doing it that way. But I can believe it would have an impact if it were your only sizing die.

OCD is about the only reason I can see for worrying about any coke bottle shape. But whatever floats your boat. If they pass my hundo gauge, they are 100% reliable in all of my guns. And that's the bottom line for me. Not putting the Redding die down at all. I'm sure it's great. All I know is the Lee U-Die eliminated almost all of my Hundo gauge failures.

I guess I just don't pay attention to if they're a little "coke bottle" shaped. Why would it matter? They pass my Hundo and always go bang, even in my pickiest gun (CZ Shadow 2 Orange).

In my 1100's 3rd station, I use a Lee "undersized die". Since it touches the shell plate when at full cycle, it acts as an external hold down for the swager. So station 2 and 3 are sizing stations. I could have used the Lee die as my only sizing die, but figured it'd pull through the press better if I "pre-sized" them. And I was not a fan of the plastic hold down for the swager anyway. I let the MBF powder drop do all the belling. The Lee die cut down on my Hundo failures by like 99%.

Correct. I use a single tool head. Just screw in the sizing die, unscrew the swaging die and install this part. I use locking die rings. That's a lot faster and a lot cheaper than a separate tool head. And it does work. I've processed a few hundred rounds with it and it has not missed a beat.

Neat little printed gadget. It kicks the brass out of station 3 after resizing/depriming in station 2. Makes that operation a LOT faster than pulling each piece of brass manually. They fall pretty much straight down so easy to collect in a waiting bin. I've processed several hundred through it in the last few days on my Dillon 1100, works great. You get 2 of them for $15. https://suncoastbrass.com/products/2-dillon-1050-1100-brass-process-bypass On ebay also: https://www.ebay.com/itm/324935328611?hash=item4ba7a7a363:g:Y~EAAOSw51JhmXac

I have a couple of sight pushers. This one is my favorite. https://www.amazon.com/WIREGEAR-Heavy-Duty-Construction-Gunsmithing-Engineering/dp/B07ZQF7G79

I don't regret buying my 1100 either. I was loading on a 650 prior to that, and wanted the swaging station for all the crimped 9mm brass I have been running into in the Covid era. But I'm also not happy that I gave up a lifetime warranty to do it. The reality of it though is that through 35+ years of reloading on MEC, RCBS and Dillon presses, I've really not needed a lot of warranty parts. So it doesn't keep me up at night or anything.

That's is contrary to what I was told on the phone by Dillon customer service. He said that when they had the lifetime warranty on those presses, they were getting a ton of warranty claims from commercial producers. But I don't that for sure, just what I was told by Dillon.

Dillon is great at CS. But I am pretty disappointed in the warranty for the 1050 and above machines. It's only 1 year for the 1050 and 2 years for the 1100. A big negative to them IMO, and I own an 1100. I asked them why and they told me it was because a lot of folks motorize those presses and some even sell the ammo as reman. They apparently break/wear out a lot of parts and Dillon didn't feel like subsidizing their business any longer.

Not sure why you're being a smart ass here. You're the one that asked "Just curious on some of the other users with similar setups and their way of doing things.".

Correct. That is working for me. Correct, I've been using Hornady One Shot lube. I've only been loading my own once fired brass for now, so it's not been dirty. But I may add a step at some point to clean prior to size/deprime. I have both a dry vibratory cleaner and a wet tumbler. Sounds perfect to me.

It is not hard on the loader or shell plate to full body resize on a Dillon progressive press. They are designed for it. But do whatever you're comfortable with. I just got into .223 loading also, on a Dillon 1100. I use the case feeder and resize/deprime all lubed cases on it as the first step. Then I clean/measure/inspect each case before putting them back in the hopper for loading. I pull the sizing die out of my tool head (have locking die nuts on my dies) for the 2nd pass.

Agreed. But even with the correction, it still seems like a lot of work compared to just sharpening the tip of the punch a little, which works well.

Good point, but I really don't think it applies nearly as much to the 1100. On my 650, I did buy a lot of accessories. Primer cutout, roller handle, etc. The only after market accessory I've purchased for my 1100 is an LED light for under the toolhead (I had one on the 650 also).

I've never seen an Apex 10 in the flesh, so no opinion there. But I did recently upgrade from a 650 to an 1100. I would not call it a huge step up, but it is a step up. The swaging station and power of the press are probably the 2 things I notice most. Nice to have the extra stations also, if you need them. No regrets on staying Dillon.

Wow, I'd say. If it that had been that price a few days ago, I'd have jumped on it.

I was tempted to try the Armanov tool head when I ordered up my 1100 conversion (9mm to .223) a few days ago, but went with the Dillon Quick Change tool head instead. I already have an LED ring of lights that will easily transfer from one Dillon toolhead to another, so that was not a big selling point to me. The LNL bushings is interesting and looks like a good idea. If I ever need to load something other than 9mm and 223/556 on my 1100, I may regret not getting the Armanov part.

That can be avoided. Even if you use an MBF, you can free up a station on the 650/750 by using a seat/crimp in one die (RCBS). That extra station allows you to use an RCBS "lock out" die after the powder drop. That's the setup I used on my 650, and now my 1100. Never had a squib in many 1000's of rounds. I went from a 650 to the 1100 mostly for the built in swaging station. I thought it might be faster too, but it's really not, at least with all non-crimped brass. But my brass is mixed, so the 1100 saves me time there for sure. Depending on how much you shoot, it does not take long to pay for a press right now. My 9mm reloads at current pricing are 18 cents a piece. Store bought is running 35-40 cents a round for the cheap stuff. Which I don't consider my tuned reloads to be. I equate them to the higher end range ammo. But even compared to the cheap stuff, it would take about 12K rounds to pay for an 1100 (no dies). A lot of rounds for some, not so many for others of us. Only take about 4K rounds to pay for stripped down 750.