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I'm looking at charts, I don't know what the real drop can be between 5 and 50 (I guess 5 and 30 would be more like 2.5 in that case") It's really hard to notice the difference unless you have the distances, a rest, or anything that can remove human error. In my case, I think the trigger pull affects less than 10% of the error past 25 yards while aiming and wobble will be the rest I used the calculator by choosing 124 grains, 9x19, 1050 FPS so a typical IPSC cartridge. I don't know what other options I should look for to read it properly BTW : It sucks to have very few targets past 25 yards in most matches here (they are usually harder, with a lot of no shoots), and even harder to find ranges with longer distances. I know most top shooters zero from 18 to 42-43 yards

There must be something wrong with options, the drop I see is much bigger than the one said by rowdyb and Yondering. I used this one for example: http://gundata.org/ballistic-calculator/ I still can't understand how zero-ing at 50yards makes a so little change below 25 yards. How isn't it about 4" below at 5 yards?

One new thing I've been told: weighting bullets is useless, what counts is the lenght of the bearing surface of the bullet. Having all 124 grains bullets won't be as good as having the same bearing surface with a 2 grains variance. Any confirmation of this?

Why are most shooters using .356 color coated/lead? Isn't .357/.358 more precise on most 9mm guns? Is it due to recoil or any other factor?

Can you give an example of what is used? Or any link. This is interesting. Does the use ruin brass in the process?

I think this is one of the things that affects performance the most: Precision Speed If you have a 500Lb force per hand, the gun will not move. If it doesn't move, you will shoot accurate and fast, with the fastest split time possible (of course you have to aim properly). That said, what tools did he use? What muscles are involved the most in grip?

So why the opposite isn't true, like zero-ing at 15 yards? And why is it that different from charts?

That's exactly how it is. Champions shoot depending on their competitors. Go ask Grauffel, Michel, or any other. No, most of them are NOT playing their own game

Like you're pushing the firing pin? Do you have to set them deep or just at the same brass height?

That's still an error, I don't see why not zeroing at 35 yards which would be enough to be perfectly ok at any distance. If I'm shooting a target covered with a no shoot, I feel totally safe (I zeroed at 27-28 yards) even when aiming right above the no shoot. With a 50 yard zero, it will be a no shoot It's not about gun/hands, it's about the cartridge. Unless you're using 115 grains at 1200+ FPS the difference should be more than just 2", especially at 5-10 yards Anything from 22 to 35 yards is an optimal zero to me

Hello Any downside of using a really light firing pin spring, except for having to change it frequently? Wouldn't it make much easier to use light main springs? Obviously not too light to have the firing pin bounce after a strike Any idea about cutting it?

Why would you zero at 50? So you hit no shoots / charlie etc... at lower distances? 4-5 inches is a big difference

So the difference for a plate at a 20 degree incline would be almost equal to non-existant. Not even noticeable

I shot with a GM in my squad last match. It was really good. I had a confirmation of some of my stage plans, some of mine were better at times, and I realized I didn't have to do anything special. The time I realized that I won a stage (a long with 32 rounds) by doing nothing special, in fact. I shot under my usual speed and had good accuracy. He was also inspiring. All positive stuff

What is that distance? About 2"? Or it is more than expected I meant about the plate being low. Any explaination with examples? What formula should I check for?

Anybody has more information about this?

It does help So for the first part, it might help to consider high quality 115 grains vs good quality 147 grains (just an example). Good quality 115 grains might have issues at longer distances (35+yards) - just a guess - Why do some people say JHP are the best for accuracy and some others pick lead/coated? I can't understand if some information is missing on both sides. I made a research about the transonic region and it seems like, under typical conditions, 1100 - 1300 FPS should be avoided. Even around 1050 at low temperatures. If this has a bigger impact on accuracy, I guess that would make easier to pick 124 - 135 - 147 grains for better accuracy at 35+ yards rather than 115 grains, staying in the typical 125-135 power factor range (with exceptions for 147 grains) I saw that a typical 124 grain bullet can have an SG factor well above 2.0 (I see the optimal range is 1.4 - 2.0). I hope too much is not affecting accuracy more than a 0.5" at 50 yards Actually I'm working on the second part. I'd like to start with a good group at 25 yards, and any group from 2.5" or lower will pass the test for farther distances. I bought some powders and bullets and I'll try them. What I understood is that a 95% of max load will work better for any specific powder, so using a 70% of a fast powder might be a bad idea (better use another powder). Or an 80% of a slow powder.

I can buy RN .356 124 grains every time here. Any way I could shoot as far as 50 yards with accuracy?

Then it is a very "old" version compared to the one I'm talking about. Probably the main thing is that it is available in Italy only. I can't bet on it since I don't own one, but it could probably be called the "Production Killer" since it's the best out of the box, probably better than Shadow2 or Tanfoglio Stock2 Extreme. Magwell, competition sights, perfect trigger pull, short reset, and balanced.

Which Strike One was it? Who was the owner/shooter if he can be named?

Actually, the Strike One Ergal is made to be a competition gun, especially for IPSC - Production division. I don't know if it's sold in USA, I'm just trying to understand more about it. At the moment it costs about 2000/2200€ compared to about 1150-1300€ for a CZ Shadow2. Maybe in US $ it would cost slightly more. It is IPSC production legal, and it's ready out of the box to be a competition gun. It seems to be similar to the incoming Alien from Laugo Arms, with a magwell ready, short reset, 3Lb trigger pull

At the moment I am basing everything on what I can double tap and have 2 A's one near eachother with the slowest split possible (0.11-0.14) at 5-7 yards. It's working with 124 grains at about 132 PF with a fast powder and a specific recoil spring. Whenever I change one factor, it just doesn't work. I would like to, but I feel like it's a really long road.

I'm curious about any news. Are they good enough for accuracy at 35+ yards or they will lose a bit?

I can't see the first one and the second one is just what I googled before, I didn't find any new answer / explaination about RPM's, barrel twist, etc... No research about bullets losing accuracy by going too fast yet (I'd like to find one)

I tried to search for that kind of information, and I didn't find anything useful yet. I mean, I didn't read "too high RPM makes the bullet lose accuracy", I've just found the opposite (about SG value). So if the bullet can't be stabilized, it will lose accuracy. I'd be curious to find the opposite statement so I could tell which speed (or bullet length/weight) to avoid. Any way to tell when it's too much?