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I think there's no need to see the sights under 5 yards and you can throw off fast splits (0.10-0.15) with some training. 100ms is not much time considered that it's the time between the 2 shots, not the time you used to think "now i'm going to shoot again".

Probably at 7+ yards (of course it can't be the same for everybody). You can also give a look at best open shooters to see how it would be impossible to track dot movement, you just know you can double tap under X distance.

I've never liked the "keep doing alpha's and you'll eventually gain speed". I can't see how that would be working. Especially for very fast moves.

I used my shadow 2 and shadow1 both at the same time and I noticed the result couldn't be comparable at all. I even paid more attention when using the sp01

I found out the same about mine. I bought it used, now I'm starting to think the seller found out that. How do I check for any issue? Can 10X Bushing solve it?

How come some shadow2 seem to have a different pull with the exact same springs? Is there any secret? What pull do you have with 10 Lb main spring?

It doesn't mean anything. You can't take most GM's with thousands of rounds shot. It's just not a good example. Take a new/average shooter, give him a glock or a shadow2 and see the difference in no time. There are few exceptions, and of course the typical GM which shoots over 40k rounds a year is not a good example. Of course some shoot less, and of course it won't matter as much after a certain level of skill.

I don't agree and I'll explain why. Maybe it will look clear at the end (please, take some time to answer, don't just reply to offend my uncommon opinion) Let's take out of the equation some very expensive parts, and let's take into consideration gun parts which may cost from 5 to 200$ A very easy to understand example for what I know : Cz Shadow2, ipsc production rules. Stock shadow2 vs main spring 11LB. In the first case, to do what you can do with the 11Lb spring, you will need so much practice that it could literally be a "waste" of money and time. Let's say it's 20$ in the worst case. You spent it once, and here you go. 100% sure it will take less time to press the trigger, OR it will mean less mistakes done due to pressing it. Have you ever considered how much points you might lose (or not gain) due to using a bad gun? Yes, everybody can have good results with a bad/average gun, with a lot of practice. Is it smart? I can bet it's not. It's the same example you can use for training courses or practice. Another part is : HOW MUCH will that part change your results? To me, for example, the RIGHT recoil spring will give HUGE results compared to the effort, while practicing with a BAD SPRING and trying to have the same results will take MUCH MORE EFFORT. After some time, there will be a stable point, so, trying new parts will probably give 0 to little improvements. The key measurement is improvement/cost. If you are decent at analysis, you will probably find out what is more cost effective. Another simple example for what I know : 1500$ to spend: Glock 17 Cz Shadow2 Let's say it's 500$ for the Glock and 1000$ for the Shadow2. Saying you have 500$ left to spend on practice is a really bad idea to me. It won't ever be enough to cover the disadvantages of using a Glock. Maybe you will have to shoot 30'000 rounds to be somewhere near the same level of a 1000-rounds shadow2.

You're not going to track sights with a 0.10-0.15 split at few yards. What do you expect to see? It's not that grandmasters become supermen and they can see faster.

18. Aftermarket parts, components and accessories are prohibited, except as follows: 18.4 Aftermarket springs and trigger assemblies are permitted. What does that mean? Which parts can be changed? Sear, sear spring, disconnector, etc...? How to be 100% sure of what can be changed and what not in this case?

I don't think so. Would you take 0.13 as doable?

So what's your point? It depends on the gun itself, too

It's a different topic already - most top shooters WON'T see their sights at that speed

Explain why. Btw, that works with every timer, so it's not a joke.

I've seen many top shooters do it. You can't shoot a 0.10 in production intentionally and see the sights at the same time. It's a matter of practice

I think that's not how the brain works. More walk-ins, less anxiety. The more times you visualize it, the less anxiety.

Doesn't bigger diameter result in more fouling, in general? And much higher pressures. Were all of the bullets you used of high quality? What gun is that?

I have to find a place where I can do this. Last time I tried to rest my arms on a table, it didn't change anything.

Actually, I've shot with about 135 pf mostly, and it works fine with 2 hands, but I feel like I'm losing a lot of time when shooting with strong/weak hand only. And I'm sure I can't grip more, I'd have to start training. I'd want to have the tightest group possible, to start with. I'll have to try and see what I can get. Any idea about OAL and bullet diameter?

Would you shoot loads over 135 pf even though that might mean slower splits, and less barrel durability? I mean, I wouldn't even consider barrel durability if I had better accuracy and nothing else. Performance > weapon durability (to me). For > 135 pf loads would you prefer progressive powders? I'm still learning a lot of basic stuffs. I am sticking to an easy to load powder, which may not be the best (I think it's the same as the LOVEX D032 ) but it's really cheap compared to most powders. Also, isn't an OAL like 1.080" a bit too low? I'm using 9x21 and the suggested length is about 29,3-29,5mm which ranges from 1.153" to 1.160", which is considered safe. I tend to use about 29.0 ( 1.142" ) with RN / FP bullets, and 28.5 ( 1.122") for TC bullets. I thought OAL wouldn't matter that much but there aren't that many tests around here. People tend to give more importance to bullets and powder. -- I'm using a CZ SHADOW2, and I've been told that .3555 (if they even exist) would be better than .356 or .355 I'm using hard cast for training and powder coated bullets for matches. I'm not sure I found any differences in using different diameters, maybe I'm not good enough at shooting good groups yet.

I've seen the disconnector travel matters a lot. I can shoot 0.10 splits with the one I use now (0.12 for sure), but I can't with a stock CZ Shadow2.

0.10 at 5 or less yards, pretty consistently. I think I can have the same at about 10-12, but I'm still trying to find the best configuration. I can't tell how some are capable of shooting really fast splits at greater distances (like 25 yards - 0.20/0.30 splits). I feel safe with a .15/20 split at such distances, however I've seen some great shooters shooting really fast with great scores. I'm pretty sure I'm gripping the gun well enough Minor, with a cz shadow2.

That's what I'm trying to do. With a short reset / disconnector (the one with the least reset travel, I think, but I'm not sure if there's better), I've had that happen only once I guess. My best splits are around 0.10. I'll try a different method to see if anything changes (the times I remember that happening, I was trying to force it intentionally)

So no pin & reset?

I thought that would be a little too short (especially 1.010") with huge pressures