DEP44

Thanks for taking the time to help a newbie to shotguns! The way it looks is that by pumping back the lifter does drop. The new round however is still stuck in the tube, it maybe comes out 1/8". I've tried at that point to push it back in the tube by reaching into the ejection port, but it's really stuck and doesn't get released until I pump forward and the lifter is already back up again. I'll examine more closely tonight.

Hey guys, I got me a Supernova during the winter, 24" and set it up with a Nordic +5 and Nordic follower (the one for the supernova). Cut the spring as per directions. Practiced my loading with dummies A-Zoom and all cycles fine. Went to the range to verify aim of the new hiviz sights I put on it and loaded 1 round in the tube. Pushed the bolt release, cycled and it tossed the round right out the loading port. This was repeated several times. Got home and from what I can see is this: if I rack the slide back, the round sticks out the tube not more than 1/8 and won't move. I can't push it back in. Racking the slide forward will release the round and the lifter will push it out the loading port. Ammo is cheap Winchester super target. Any ideas a where to start troubleshooting this? Edit to add: it seems to happen about 50% of the time and the rounds that don't cycle, won't cycle the next time either. Rounds that do load correctly, load fine again and again.

Haha.... Right! Fixed it.

Sorry, didn't ask about the weight. I was merely interested because of the dual ejector. That said, the dual O-rings under my extractor seem to work just fine and appear to be durable. Too bad there's no way to upgrade an existing LR308 type of rifle with these new features (other than to buy another rifle).

Just checked with DPMS; The new bolt/carrier only fits the GII.

Being 6'7" I don't want a shorter LOP, but I'll have to call DPMS to see if I can retrofit my AP4 with that new bolt.

Huh? Exchanging the toolhead is just 1 nut. All left is the fail safe rod. Should be less than 5 minutes.

The gun racks came off Ebay last year, but couldn't really use 'm due to the pointing up or down rule. I recycled an old telescopic broom stick and removed the internal twist lock. Simply clamped the wider tube in the corner and insert the smaller tube with the gun rack when needed. Bolt and wing nut keep it from twisting. On the other side of the cart I mounted a Rubbermaid Fast Track rail. The attachments simply click on and I use it for my chair (Got bad knees, so I need my chair) By hanging the chair "overboard" the dirt and sand from the legs no longer spread to the gear in the cart.

Had extraction/ejection problems with my 16"AP4 when new. I replaced the extractor spring with heavy duty Wolff spring, didn't help. Mostly the empty would be pulled from the chamber and just lay on top of the magazine. I ended up using 2 rubber o rings around the extractor spring (smallest they had at Ace Hardware store) which cured the problems 100%. Beyond my expectation they are holding up and they appear to be oil resistant. Jut thought I'd mention it, as its a cheap thing to try.

Like you, I run a seperate toolhead for trimming. On station 1 of that toolhead I put the Redding FL/SB die. If I remember correctly, my bushing for LC 223 is .245. If you still have trouble pulling the expander through the neck, you can go wider. Remember, the trim die will size the neck down also, so don't worry about neck tension. Swager on station 2, trimmer in the slot where you normally would put the powder check.

The brass I have on hand is once fired mil. brass which may have been fired from sloppy chambers. I have a few tight semi-autos that require a small base sizer for mentioned brass the first time. Edit: While I wouldn't need to go small base the 2nd time, I am too lazy to switch to a normal die. If that results in less reloads of my brass, I accept that.

I am using a Redding FL Small Base die (with bushings). It really makes a difference when pulling the expander through the neck IMO. Enough to give up the carbide Dillon. I use Dillon lube, which makes a day and night difference compared to Hornady One Shot. Again, IMO and I don't wait. That said, it only takes one case with a bad deformation of the neck to bend the decapper if the 2 meet. The difference is even bigger when prepping militairy 308.

I switched to a FL die with neck bushing in my trimming toolhead. That way I still can use the expander to straighten out dented necks. IMO a normal FL die sizes the neck way down and stretches it back up with the expander. Using a carbide expander and a bushing that not over-sizes, I find no need to lube inside the case neck. The RT1200 trim die does the final sizing of the neck without the expander stretching the case (headspace).

And that's what I ended up with! I tried my neighbor's PACT and it ranged 50AE from 600 to 3000fps and was done with messing around.

I use Fed 100 for my 38sp. 686 needs the soft primers. No issues in 650.

Thanks JJ, I'm going to give that a try. We'll see if it works for the Prvi's. I just compared them to Hornady 150gr fmjbt and it appears they are longer from the cannelure to the tip, so that may play a role as well. The Lee Factory Crimp die is still a no-go, but on trimmed cases the RCBS crimp works just as good. Even if I lose half of the spring function, I would still be able to switch projectiles just by adjusting the die to prerecorded numbers.

Same here. Exchanged the Redding comp for the Lee collet seater. Then the same thing with the Lee FC. The tip of the bullit (Prvi 145gr fmjbt) hits the sleeve, the whole cartridge tips but eventually makes it to the bin.

Considering all the positive reviews, this unit seems to be a winner, especially for it's price. Now, how do you folks read the velocity during your shooting session? Are the numbers large enough to read from the bench, especially when you need a little more distance for lets say 50bmg? I'd be all over it if the remote had a display built-in and buying and dragging around a laptop in order to use the interface is beyond my intention (has anyone created an IPad app yet?). Thanks!

One or more dies that are locked in the shell plate too low will cause over-camming too.

Indirectly I think it interacts through the primer slide activator arm. If I adjust that thing down far enough to stay hooked in the primer slide, the ratchet will hang up on the last "tooth". If I move it up 1 hair, the arm gets unhooked from the primer slide. The ratchet assembly did not last on my 1050. (And I don't miss that sound )

My AP4 came with the inner and outer extractor spring. Same thing, the empty was extracted but not ejected. Laying on top of the mag . A Wolff extra power extractor spring didn't do nothing. The double O ring trick was the cure.

Got 4 toolheads for 4 different 308 guns + trim toolhead. Now for handguns I'd just get a Redding Comp seater, but with rifle rounds there's more to adjust like shoulder bump and portion of the neck to be sized (bushing).

I have to admit that it was disturbing to see the off-blue colored bins on the 1050 when I installed the press next to the 650 and the 550.....

I'd put an FL die with neck bushing in 1 and the RT1200 in 3 or 4. Getting rid of the expander ball makes my press run way smoother and headspace is more consistent since the change.

Is a 450 more accurate than a 550 with toolhead clamp kit?