jmorris

I was thinking of something more like the decap/primer picket sorter I built. Except instead of a probe, you have the camera to capture the image and instead of just an “L” or “s” bin have them drop into a device that can further divide them. A number of different options exist for that part.

Even back when they were called KISS they worked flawless and were pretty simple devices. Received one of the MBF ones with a machine I picked up and seeing how it ticked and started dropping little balls everywhere. I suppose someone must have been having some kind of problems they fixed with the design change(s), either that or it reduces manufacturing costs. That’s the only two reasons to make changes.

If I am seeing what I think I am seeing, I like it. I have always thought a 1050 with a 650 priming system would be a great press and those are far enough apart, there’s not much chance of a chain detonation.

Anet here too. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Anet-A8-3D-Printer-Kit-DIY-Large-Printing-Size-High-Precision-Reprap-Prusa-i3/222519855209?epid=2176398435&hash=item33cf378869:g:SuIAAOSwblZZImQ-

Well north of 2000 per hour. Like over 4000/hr with pistol cases. And over 2000 rifle cases/hr.

It’s a new product and not going to be sold to a lot of people. kind of like the TI-2500, the first hand held calculator cost $150 and ran off 6 batteries. Now my bank gives away solar powered ones that have square root function and memory for free. If the Chinese could sell a few million at Harbor Freight, they would steal the intellectual property and sell them there for $19.99 with coupon. Supply/demand

I wonder what it was back in 2014 when this thread was started

In the castboolits thread I linked to in the OP he has a video of the design he made for hollow base wadcutters. Regular wadcutters would be easy because it doesn’t matter what end is down as both are the same.

A forum member asked me about a fix for the ski ramp on the 650. I just use a little section of vinyl tubing but have been playing around with the 3D printer and found this one https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2311782 and printed a copy. This is how it works.

As I said above, might be as much metal as a metallic paint job. You could find out how much bronze was embedded in the PLA if you took a known length of it and weighed it. It would be a small fraction of what the same length and diameter of actual bronze wire would weigh.

It’s just a dial indicator but plenty accurate for reloading. And than you.

I threw this together, allows just about any die to be adjusted with precision.

Yep, they might arrive in station 1 with the damage but that damage would already be on the case when you dumped them in the collator, if that’s the case (no pun intended).

I don’t see any metals in “supported materials”. The steelfill filament, that is metal particles in PLA would be as close to metal as a metallic paint job.

You are saying a $600 3D printer can print something like the video I linked? Tell me more!

Sounds the same. I remember 21 years ago when the wax model 3D printers were becoming available they were very expensive and made less useful parts. Pretty neat they can make them so cheap now. It will be cool if I live long enough for the metal 3D printers to become affordable. Would be a real game changer.

Just clicked on your link, that looks very similar to the Anet 8, what does it do different/better for the extra $440?

I have never found it an issue personally but there are a number of folks that just hate the fact that the 650 always feeds primers. Anyway I recently got a 3D printer and looking around thingiverse.com for things I could print off and this one looked pretty neat. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZDT63UZVVE&app=desktop

I thought the instructions kind of sucked. Then, after I built it from the printed leaflet, I loaded my first file to print onto the included SD card and realized the instructions were in a file on it. I added a glass tile to the bed but masking tape works too. I wouldn’t put it in the same category as my other CNC equipment but am pretty impressed anyone can make something with the same capabilities at the price point. I’ve seen them in the many thousands of dollars price range, so I have no doubt there are better choices. I just wasn’t going to spend the money for just playing around and it can turn out a functional collator.

$25 for the motor. https://www.doublealpha.biz/mr-bulletfeeder-motor $12 for the spring. https://www.doublealpha.biz/mrbulletfeeder-output-spring-and-extension-adaptor $15 for a 2.2 lb spool of the filament. http://www.microcenter.com/product/485634/175mm_Black_PLA_3D_Printer_Filament_-_1kg_Spool_22_lbs

I have built a number of my own but it takes some ability and machinery to do so. A recent thread over at Castboolits http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator peaked my interest once I learned how cheap 3D printers have become. 20 years ago they could build wax models and were very expensive, enough I really didn’t pay them much attention in recent years but in the thread above Hatch linked (also provided me post purchase support, thanks again if you happen to read this) to the Anet A8 3D printer that was just under $160 shipped. This isn’t the link he posted but it’s the same printer. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Auto-Leveling-DIY-3D-Printer-Upgraded-Quality-High-Printing-Precision-Desktop-Prusa-I3-3D-Printer/187752683?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=5957&adid=22222222227064219129&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=t&wl3=169624311263&wl4=pla-299485524634&wl5=1026339&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=114220812&wl11=online&wl12=187752683&wl13=&veh=sem It’s a kit that has to be assembled, takes a few hours, hardest part for me was getting all of the protective paper off all the parts. The subject of the thread though comes from AmmoMike83’s work. He has designed, a bullet collator that the files can be downloaded for free and printed off. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2504314 There are a number of parts that you will need and he has a number of different configurations in the files as well. Like base down for loading or nose down to feed sizing machines. He is also very helpful and has created new design files for users with specific needs. There is a little learning curve (the plastic doesn’t cost much) and the process is very slow from a machinist perspective (the part is built in layers .1mm thick) but in the end you get a bullet collator(s) with very little effort, created by AmmoMike83 and equipment you can set on your wife’s dining room table. FWIW the thing runs pretty much all the time making all sorts of things, thingiverse.com has an incredible amount of files there people have created and distribute for free.

I have to keep the primer tube and case collator full, I just add a scoop of bullets, a scoop of cases with each tube of primers.

I have the info I needed, I’ll start another thread when I get done to answer your question.

Almost. From what I have seen, it looks like the two non square connections are the “switch” as in normally open or normally closed, like the primer limit switch. So one will go to the common terminal on the switch and the other goes to NC or NO? That would lead me to believe that the square terminals are going to be power and ground for the sensors that require power, like the optical primer sensor? One would assume they all the same in the way they are wired as well but we know what we get when we assume...

I sent you a PM.