jmorris

Come up with the OCR, electronics/program to read the headstamp and output for a number of like headstamps (like A, B, C, D, E, F, G, everything else) and I’ll come up with the mechanical part that looks at every case and diverts it to where the others like it are.

Does anyone know what the pinout is for the mark 7 sensors. 4 pins but it looks like they are using regular limit switches operating NO or NC. Anyone have any of the the add on’s that could take photos of the wiring?

I added the primer pocket sorter part to the author Decap machine.

I’d just let him come up with the solution then, sounds like he already knows what he wants. Any number of way of doing it though. Go to a muffler shop with your stick in hand and see what tubing they have that fits it best. Now just weld them to a flat plate or if you want something to trip over, weld them to something thicker. I’d also make sure they have holes in the bottom or folks are going to get mad when they dump rusty rain water on themselves helping set up.

I use 1/4” thick 4” wide flat steel and weld 3/4” solid rod vertical to them. The holes are so they can be staked down. Less to trip over being so low to the ground. Build the walls out of 1x1 box tubing and they slide over the 3/4” posts.

I didn’t get to do anything neat this winter and another thread on another forum had me thinking about an auto decap machine that could cull SPP 45 ACP from LPP 45. I have the decap and feed part working. Maybe next week I’ll have some time to add the cull part right before the exit.

If was found that I had high lead one year after I had started shooting weekly indoor matches. After that I continued to cast, reload and shoot outdoor matches and my lead levels went back down. They remain OK but I only shoot indoors for larger matches now no more regular club matches.

Google Black and decker workmate.

http://kmssquared.com/products.html The best I have used for the 550 and 650. The only problem I have had is my 1050's seem too dark now because they don't make one for them.

I can't say I recall shooting steel there but it was pretty "shot up" everywhere, I could see how they might have looked past the frags you get shooting steel. Always left with black boogers and the group I shot with quit once the "regulars" tested high on lead levels.

I would be really interested to see their bullet trap and how they placed the star. I can't say I have ever seen steel targets at indoor ranges.

For non magnum pistol rounds, if your going to be cheap, 3/8" mild steel plate will last a very long time. if your going to spend the money on AR plate just buy 3/8" AR 500 and be done with it. It will be cheaper than buying 1/4" today then 3/8" a few years from now.

Not sure of the exact date but they changed the frame on both of them. They now have a truss look to them. You would have to run an FEA on the two designs to see any difference though. I'd also bet a nickel they did before the change.

There is an open spot on the left just infront of the stack of bullets.

Need to use the common (C) and normally closed (NC) locations on the switch and have one side of the 12 v power to the collator motor (doesn't matter if it's the + or -) go into one and come out the other. With there are enough bullets in the tube to hold the switch open power is no longer delivered to the motor and the collator stops.

No, they do not. The difference in group size is most likely due to the shooter. Sure pistol sights are not great for long range accuracy work but that doesn't really make the pistol in accurate, just harder to aim. If the ammunition does better when fired from the same pistol in a machine rest, it was the person firing it that made it inaccurate. Maybe get a carbine in the same caliber and see if you are like most everyone else and more accurate with a rifle than a pistol. Optics on a pistol can also improve accuracy. They don't make the pistol mechanically more accurate just give you better resolution of where you are aiming and that makes things more repeatable shot after shot. Not all "optics" are the same either. Take these three for example, which do you think you could Have the best chance of aiming at the same spot over and over?

If you think you going to spend $50 or $25 on sale for a primer filler that you dump primers in an hit a button to get a full tube, you are going to be disappointed. If you can watch what the thing is doing and tilt it from side to side as well as a combination of forward/backwards and give it a little "flip" if they bridge the passage to the hole, they work like this.

http://patft.uspto.gov/netacgi/nph-Parser?Sect1=PTO1&Sect2=HITOFF&d=PALL&p=1&u=%2Fnetahtml%2FPTO%2Fsrchnum.htm&r=1&f=G&l=50&s1=9,664,488.PN.&OS=PN/9,664,488&RS=PN/9,664,488 Doesn't mention my SPP detection/ejection device but in "other references" my computer controlled 1050 video is cited. He must have received his patent because his position sensor is off the control lever where I had mine mounted to sense tool head position.

Did your collator mod allow base down bullets sometimes or was the problem elsewhere? From your video it looks like the base down bullet is culled by how fast it passes the chute and if the tube was full and the motor stopped with a base down bullet at that point it would fall out instead of riding over.

That looks like it will do the job just fine. I went with the upside down single stage. And before that a completely homemade contraption.

Here is a pretty simple step on activator. If you used the same spring idea to pull the line when released, you could just put tension on the line and have the shooter stand on the line. When that foot is lifted, the spring yanks the line.

This is the MGM one I mentioned.

MGM makes some pneumatic ones that are self contained as well. For the first NRA TPC match I made some hit indicators that attached to the bottom of the steel stand with a single bolt and conduit that ran out to the side away from the target on the end of it there were LED tail lights and a shock sensor for a car alarm. When the plate was hit, the vibration was transferred through the conduit, triggering the sensor and lighting up the light. Worked perfect but because the light is 10 ft from the target (so nothing is impacted from misses or bullet fragments) it's not really good for arrays of targets. Not to mention you need 12 volt batteries, I use the ones out of my deer feeders. I also have built a number of auto reset reactive steel target for my own use. For 308 you'll want 3/8" AR500 or thicker.

I made my SP sensor eject the case.

I would imagine that would get quite frustrating, I don't remember having seen a large primer 9mm case, I would expect a small primer sensor to stop on just about every case. But I too run the brass through once first as well, folks with Camdex and Ammoload machines do brass prep as well. It's folks loading manually that think your crazy because you are doubling the work you have to do. We look at it for what it is, just pushing a button. I am running a little more than 1100 cases an hour faster though.