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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

highhope

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Everything posted by highhope

  1. I tried, not so easy to remove that finish.........
  2. Yeah, they do, raw aluminum!Thanks man, found them on their web.
  3. Here is a picture Springer vs Henning. Wish Springer produce silver ones.....
  4. I have a large hand, so I like the Springer better. Since it's larger and thicker, my left hand point finger will not touch the magwell when I reload. It's easier for reload. I have both Henning and Springer.
  5. Hello, is the very early Gen1 PM9 made in 2003 as good as the later ones? Any cons? Thank you!
  6. Sure, I definitely don't want to mislead the people with bolo. I come here to discuss and learn. I have edited my post to "not mislead" the people. If as you said " The bolo just barely contacts the frame" that's great! But one thing I don't understand, and could you help me with that " Pull the trigger from hammer down, at the time right before DA breaks, does the bolo nose stlll contact with frame "barely", not firmly contact? " BTW, thank you for all your work on the BOLO. Actually, I do plan to buy a bolo this morning to give it a try, I do not reject "good product". Happy holiday!
  7. Again, Please just explain the "polish mark" on his figure 4. Thank you man! Please dump some useful fresh water not only just yelling at people to buy your BOLO.
  8. Yes, you are right. They have different dimensions. But bolo also contact with the frame as the " polished mark " shown in his picture 4 above. So that's the very hard resistance come from! Edit -Hey man, you should listen too. Please just explain the "polish mark" on his figure 4. Thank you man!
  9. I found this polished mark on my stock2 too, but I used a T3 disco. After I carefully polished this contact surface on both the frame and my interrupter, the DA pull weight goes about about 8oz lower. That's "maybe" one reason where the "very hard resistance" come from. Correct me if I am wrong. Just definitely don't want to mislead you.
  10. Thank you. I was just wandering if that's normal. And I found the interrupter or disco has to contact with the ramp on the frame to support the hammer far enough to reach the DA break point. If file too much material on the head of the disco, the DA will not break.
  11. Well, I bought this S2 used, there is no Bolo at that time....???
  12. Thanks man, I already have a T3 disco so don't want to spend more money to get a new "Tanfo" one. As I said, my problem is the T3 disco contacts with the frame, which will introduce some friction. My question is "do they mechanically have to contact or not? If not, I will polish the T3 head till not contact.
  13. First of all, I found the the head (shown in the green circle ) of T3 disco will contact with the Stock 2 frame, and contact surface is rough . My friend told me the disco in his cz75 shadow does not contact. My question is "do they mechanically have to contact or not? If not, can I file some metal to make T3 not contact with the frame to reduce the pull weight further? Thanks.... Update: I have found that the head (shown in the green circle ) of T3 must contact with the ramp of the frame to support the hammer to go far enough to reach the DA break point. Just polish the contact surfaces on both T3 and frame, that will reduce the pull weight about 8oz. Do not file too much material on the disco, or you will lose the DA and destroy the disco.
  14. Thank you all, guys! I changed back to OEM plunger spring, now the reset is great! Thanks again.
  15. I bought this S2 used, the first owner has fitted the disco, I will find the threads and do more work on it. I changed trigger bar plunger spring to the bic pen spring , is that good?
  16. I have a Stock 2 with all polished and fitted extreme parts , one piece sear, extended firing pin block, T3 disco and reduced power trigger reset spring, bic pen spring. Now the DA is 5lb 5oz, SA 2lb 3oz, which is very nice, but the only problem is the SA reset is not positive. Sometimes the trigger will not reset before my next pull, usually happen when I double tap or drill. I use "reset riding" trigger control and keep my finger in contact with the trigger at all times, so that's may be the reason for not reset. I tried a heavier trigger reset spring, that will temporarily solve this problem but make DA 6lb, SA 3lb, but lighter trigger is better. I heard there is a way to polish the T3 dicso to get the positive reset, anyone knows how to do that? Or is there any other method to solve this problem? Thanks a lot.
  17. I like doing draw bill reload bill drill,hahahah
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