MikieM

The Viper. It's the model that sandwiches the battery in between the sight and the interface plate.

Question, please. Will installing a narrower front sight (90 thousandth) tend to open up a group, or have no effect? I'm thinking about changing to a 15 thousandths shorter front sight that is .090 thousandths wide.

My set-up now is as follows: Freedomsmith trigger. 13 pound flat recoil spring (Glock 17/34) over a Glock 34 SS guide rod with a Gen 4 adapter ring. Glock 31nm striker spring. Cajun Gun Works reduced power plunger spring. Reliability is now 100% using Winchester primers. Canik fantastic trigger, and awesome accuracy.

Turn off the radio. I've screwed up a couple of loads listening to Michael Savage.

You'll drive yourself crazy trying to get OAL to plus or minus nothing. My worry is a loaded round that's too long. Since we all load for handguns around here (even the PCCers) the old plunk and spin test is the best, and easiest way to find the over-all cartridge length. Through experimentation find the maximum OAL for the particular chamber you are loading for and then adjust your seating die so that no matter what the variances are the OAL will never be any longer than your established maximum. It is my opinion that variances in loaded length is due to shell plate movement caused by different head stamps.

The upside down primers are coming from the RF100. Make sure the stabilizer plate is properly adjusted. It is located at the very front of the bowl (clear plastic cover off) and it's job is to allow the primers to come to the drop, one-by-one. Also, if you are using Winchester primers you may be moving them around at too high of a speed. Slow things down with the rheostat and see what happens. Winchester primers tend to bounce a little if they come into the drop-off area too fast. I had the same problems with my 1050 regarding primers, although I never set off a tube. I had it apart so many times I felt like a tire changer at the Daytona 500. Small pistol primers are... well small, and they are very light weight. It is no doubt difficult to design a system to successfully accommodate them. Just keep the inner tube clean and change out the little blue nipple on the bottom on a fairly regular basis, and don't over tighten the knurled cap at the top. I hope this little bit of info helps. ?

No doubt.

I'm warming up to it a little. No doubt about it the gun is good-looking. The checkering is just about right. Not too fine, not too coarse. And the sights are first-class.

There is no question as to it's reliability. 200 rounds down the tube and no malfunctions at all. As soon as the spacer comes in I'll do a trigger job. And while I'm at it I'm going to change the trigger. I'm not a big fan of flat triggers. A stiff 4 pound pull would also affect off-hand accuracy.

I'll try it and see.

Ain't it the truth.

I'll work through the problems. Install a shim and get rid of the 80s safety. Do a trigger job. Change out the front sight if I have to. Such is life, but I'm damned tired of hearing... "ready to compete right out of the box."

Took Max to the range earlier with a hundred rounds of 147 FPs atop 3.5 grains of N320. One of the worst set of 5 shot groups I ever shot in my life. If this gun is accurate it isn't with 147 grain bullets. Going to try some 124s tomorrow. The trigger sucks. It breaks at 4 pounds even. Going to have to do a trigger job and also get rid of the series 80 safety stuff. The front sight is too high for my tastes, with the 147s. It causes the rear to be elevated to the point where it's almost wobbly. I hope the 124s will print high so I can bring the rear sight down. The mags that come with the gun are 8 round Wilson's. Can't use them. For $1400.00 this thing is a loser, so far.

I've wondered about the claim that island barrels tend to keep the sight on target better. Is this true?

I just purchased a Sig Max 1911 in 9mm. From what I've read the gun is pretty much ready to compete other than perhaps doing a trigger job. Does anyone have any experience with this particular firearm?

Spend the money and buy the JP.

Believe me. They aren't. Place the shoe on the very bottom of the trigger and you'll never look back. ?

The 24C is not mushy. Not by a long shot. Mine breaks crisp and clean at 2 and 1/2 pounds.

I sent you a PM. See what you think.

Good idea.

I've had one for about 2 years now and would never go back to picking primers up by hand with a tube. Never I say! My tweaks: 1. The first thing I did was sit the machine on a common mouse pad. This seems to keep the vibrations from resonating into the bench top. 2. I adjusted the clear plastic stabilizer plate that is located in the front of the bowl. This is probably the most critical item needing attention to ensure proper filling of the tube. If too large a gap is used you will get upside down primers. If too small a gap is used primer movement can abruptly stop (clog up), or too many primers will fall off the ramp and it will take much too long to fill the tube. If your are running past the pre-set time limit on the rheostat switch then you need to adjust this piece. 3. I leave my rheostat set (speed control) for light primers such as Winchesters. CCIs run slower because they are heavier. 4. Sometimes with the lighter primers, such as the Winchesters, they will bounce a little as they move into the entry to the tube drop and bunch up and stop moving. I have solved this problem by simply leaving out the 4 bolts that hold the clear plastic cover in place and remove the cover just before I start the machine. If a primer happens to bind and stop the flow of traffic I flick it out of the way with a toothpick. The cool part is watching the primers go round with the cover off. And, I haven't had an upside down primer in ages. When done I slip the cover back over the head and that's that. I hope this helps. Mike P.S. I just now timed how long it took 100 Winchester primers to go into the tube. With the primers in the bowl I thru the switch and it took 55 seconds with no upside down primers. Pick up primers by hand? Not bloody likely!

Totally agree with Garmil. There just isn't enough gas left to either stop the rearward movement of the gun, as with a brake, or push the muzzle down as with a compensator. Have you ever wondered why the good folks who make those things never offer up any evidence as to why, and how their devices work?

Congratulations on celebrating another trip around the Sun, and also for having such a loving wife. I've had my Canik SFx for about three weeks now, and I like it. It's current configuration (and best, so far) is: Freedomsmith trigger. Polished trigger bar. Cajun Gun Works safety plunger spring. Glock 31 NM striker spring. Glock SS guide rod. Glock 13# recoil spring. I was at the range this morning and with PF 130, 124 grain RN bullets, it ran flawlessly and was exceptionally accurate. Run a couple of boxes of ammo through it first to loosen it up a bit.

It depends on which road you travel. I'm using a Faxon Gen 2 bolt with a Faxon 7.5 ounce buffer and a JP .308 action spring. Smooth as silk and soft as a baby's bottom.

The trigger pull is about a pound too heavy for me, but it looks like it should work. Time will tell.