FortesInFide

I removed some grip material. It didn't change a thing. Curious why the detent doesn't engage that dimple in the safety...

Boy, this topic was HOT on the 3gun Facebook pages!

Thanks for the response and question. I would have to press it up to move it to "half safe," but the more I look at it, I think I just need to remove some material from the grip so that the plunger/detent engages the little divot in the safety. It's clear that this is how the system should work, right? My main concern is that if I were to engage "half safe" during a match and not be able to rack the slide. The last time I removed the grip from this gun, which is pretty much a Marauder (I have the Hex Tac), I had some issues with the over-travel on the trigger. I'm rather new to 2011s and shooting in general, so while I welcome the chance to work on this project, I'm slightly wary.

From these pics here, I have a question: Does the safety spring+detent actually engage the dimple in the safety? Mine is not... I'm wondering if I need to remove some material from the grip so that the ambi safety levers can go down far enough to so that the detent engages that dimple in the safety(?). When looking where the black grip material covers the groove in which the safety levers should rest, it looks like the grip material is preventing the safety from engaging the detent(?): Last, with the hammer down, the safety actually goes to "half-safe" which prevents the slide from going back, seen in the pic below. Is this possible because the detent is not engaging the safety? I tried both Dawson plungers/springs/detents as well as factory STI ones, and they both don't engage the safety. Any tips are welcomed, and thanks.

I've noticed that most optics are 1-6x, approximately. Has anyone considered 2-10 lax or the like? I'm a noob, so more magnification seems "easier" to me. Any advice and insights are welcome.

There is a 3gun scene emerging in central Wisconsin. Whether you're near Holmen or Fort McCoy or Winnequah in Lodi... Ripon or Marshfield... there's a lot of fun just a short drive away.

That's what I was thinking on both fronts... drool, and then gotsta get one for each of my sons. Dang that's hot.

Still have it?

Please help, fellas, as I'm running a Noveske Gen 3 lower with Magpul STS 60* safety and the Hiperfire ECL will not reset. And yet yet a few of you here are stating this combo works just fine(?). Is the ECL different than the 24c?

I just installed Hiperfire Eclipse (24C). I'm using a Noveske Gen 3 lower with a Magpul STS 60* Ambi Safety. I believe that this is what's happening, as described at the Hiperfire site here: In some cases the cavity depth with respect to the trigger pivot is too shallow. When the trigger is let-off, the rear portion strikes the cavity floor, preventing the disconnector from releasing the hammer (reset). Fix it by removing some material from the trigger; just enough to permit reset. or perhaps it's this... PROBLEM: No Hammer Reset After taking a shot, the hammer does not reset when the trigger is fully let-off. 1) The lower receiver pivot pin spacing is too close together, or the lower receiver’s pivot pin holes are worn out (diameters too large, or oblong) preventing disengagement of the semi-auto disconnector’s sear with the hammer’ secondary sear. See the Figure at left showing the in-spec FCG fire control cavity and pivot holes spacing dimensions. 2) The pistol grip screw is too long. It prevents the trigger from rotating fully forward at the trigger bow because the rear underside hits the protruding pistol grip’s attachment screw. 3) Debris is in the FCG cavity (small bits of gravel, blown primer cups, shards of cartridge brass, etc.) preventing the trigger from rotating fully forward, because of an obstruction along the trigger’s rear underside. So I've already tried here and here with no luck. Will my problem be solved by switching away from the ambi safety to a mil spec safety? Can someone please advise/help?

The shim/drop adjustment for my Benelli M2 now has me mounting in the right spot in my shoulder, but now I cannot even see the bead. Like, at all. This is mainly due to a firm cheek weld, of which I bury my checkbone down onto the stock with my "nose to the charging handle" so-to-speak. Has anyone ever tried adjusting the comb height on their shotgun? Did it work for you? http://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/ctgy/benelli-m2-comb

Went ahead with the Spuhr 3026. She he sure does ride low!

I guess I'm not sure what you mean.

I really like my Stealthgear for my G43.

I'm looking into the Trijicon 1-8 and am wondering what the weight difference is between this and the Vortex Razor HDii(?).

Correct, I learned it's the Sphur 3026 mount. It's near impossible to find one of the Erathr3 ones, but they're so close to the standard 3026 mount that I may just go with one of those. My thinking is that it sits nearly .25" lower than my Larue mount that I have now, and I need something low since I bury down on the stock.

Upon checking out SMOS, I noticed there really isn't much cost savings than the Noveske marked gear(?).

Hey guys, I'm looking to pair my new Noveske NSR rail with an upper, either the Gen 3 or the Vltor MUR. From the pic here you can see that the black of the NSR and the black of the Gen 3 upper do NOT match for paint. Is this typical or perhaps the reason they're Chainsaw?

Now that's nice right there!

I've heard great things about C-rums, too. What height did you end of going with and how did you choose?

I've owned both. Still own the Benelli.

I'd love to even see an SX. Haven't come across one yet.

Thanks for sharing!