Janskis

Hi all The current way things are done in Finland is to anchor the walls to the ground properly. This is great for building sturdy stages where you can lean on the walls and do stupid s#!t the stage designers couldn't think of. But the problem is the time it takes to build, usually a whole day. Based on several match videos from the states, USPSA clubs use portable bases where you just insert the wall and it stays up. I've been playing around with the idea on the base design, but I thought that I could ask from those who probably have already solved most of the problems I can't even think of at this point. We did consider casting with cement, but the holes for wall legs become a problem. Is steel the way to go? Anyone willing to share their designs or pics of existing solutions?

You aren't prepping movement at all. After you stop shooting you decide "now i'll initiate my movement", then you run somewhere, stop and initiate a sight picture to aim. Like others said, get the gun up sooner. The new thing I'm bringing here is to initiate movement before you are finished shooting. A slight lean will do it at first, but once you get to know your shooting ability and speed, and movement ability you can take it a lot further. The idea is that when you decide to start moving you can start moving immediately as you have already prepped yourself to be in a position which allows you to start fast. It's called easy exit and there's a crapload of info on easy/hard exit/entry!

If you punch do you punch with your fist vertical? Personally I cant a lot, not 45 degrees but like 60 degrees from horizontal or something. Its more relaxed and the recoil is more predictable for me. If I keep my wrist vertical the recoil is all over the place. Sure, canted might recoil a bit more but it is a lot more predictable for me.

Yes sorry for being unclear! I do have dummies as a weight in my mags but don't see a reason to have one in the chamber to prevent damage from dry firing.

I don't see any reason to use snap caps or dummies in the barrel when dry firing. 1. you most likely won't break the firing pin on the gun by dry firing. I haven't used snap caps and won't start using now. Nothing has broken regardless of probably thousands of clicks. 2. You shouldn't be pulling the trigger when dry firing, especially when shooting with a light and crisp trigger like in a 1911/2011 (per Ben Stoeger - Breakthrough marksmanship, although he doesn't differentiate different platforms). It is enough to pull the slack off of the trigger to get that "idea" of pulling the trigger.

Yeah I was just answering to the guy wondering about the recoil spring. With 14 lb I had the bullets hitting the top of the breech and failing to feed. The stronger spring circumvented the issue, but mag lips should probably be tuned to actually solve the problem...

I bought the gun new. The ejector is just as it was when new, the finish is barely lost on it. Red arrow material removal is once again new stuff. This one I won't file, I'll have to get some finer sandpaper for this. I managed to tighten the extractor a bit, now it snaps in place when inserting it back. I did file a slight bevel to the vertical inner side of the ejector to get more torque and more consistent ejection. I tried hand cycling dummies, now I'm getting a bit better extraction than before. The original spring was probably 14 lbs and now I have a 16 lb spring in.

The ejector seems tuned but the rounding on the extractor is minimal. I slightly rounded the lower edge of the extractor and trid to stiffen it slightly, it just popped out of the slide, unlike my open gun extractor, and the round seemed to just barely hang on the extractor. This one is really hard to tighten though, as it has been reinforced on both sides.

Thanks for the pic. I've done extractor tension tuning with my 9mm open but have never realized that the hook doesn't touch the rim itself. I believed myself (and read around) that .45acp ejection is slightly different from 9mm so that's why I'm asking. I'll check the internals when I get home shortly. I'll also provide pics of the ejector.

Video probably tells most of the story but I'll provide some backstory. The pistol has functioned flawlessly for something between 1000 and 2000 rounds after I swapped a stiffer recoil spring (by the looks of it, I could use an even stiffer one, more aggressive FPS plate or a stiffer main spring). I posted a shorter version of this video on my personal facebook and a gunsmith I know said that this needs tuning. After said comment I decided to slow it down some more and I noticed the bad ejection too. I've had some troubles emptying the gun after stages due to the anemic ejection before. Now the question is how do I fix this? I know the correct answer is TAKE IT TO A GUNSMITH but I would really like to understand how the ejection is affected by ejector and extractor tuning. By the looks of this, I'd say the extractor is a bit too stiff and should be rounded (can't remember if it already is) to ensure smoother chambering and easier ejection. Am I even in the right ballpark? Is this problem more of an extractor problem than an ejection problem?

Uronen Precision in Finland

I've tried to stay away from this one as it seems to eat up ammo a lot, but I'll be sure to try it! Courtesy of redditor g00n24 : Set up four targets, at least 20-25 degrees apart, distance can vary. Draw on either end, shoot it, transition to the next, return to first, transition to next etc. Basically you shoot in order 1-2-1-3-1-4-1. He originally meant this to be a dry fire drill, but I've found it works GREAT with static poppers using only one shot per target. Keeps the cost low and the drill still efficient. I have also been shooting this with a .22 and it does not impact the efficiency of the drill at all. The subreddit in question is competitionshooting. Great posters there although it is quite quiet...

Thanks for the tip! I got a great drill tip from a reddit user and I have also been doing the Blake drill for a while now. I have noticed a huge improvement in transitions. Still a lot of workto do though!

I have two 140mm STI mags, one STI 170mm with UP internals and Dawson basepad and one stock 170mm MBX. The MBX one is the only one I trust 100%. Has worked flawlessly out of the box and is my main mag. They also hold 30 rounds of 9mm which is a big plus. They are expensive tho, at least here...

Thanks! My biggest advantage is shooting on the move so I try to utilize it as much as I can, sometimes too much... Main reason is me losing the dot, especially during this match. The excessive dot loss in this match was due to being a bit ill but I do have the same problem even when I'm ok. I got a great tip for transition dryfire training and will start that as soon as my left wrist heals (tore a ligament a month or so ago). I think I'm losing the dot because I haven't really trained transitions properly. Good point! I haven't had to consider the upright position too much since open pistols don't really recoil... I've kinda seen it before but now that you mention it I really notice it, especially on stage 2. I try to teach the stance Travis Haley explains in one of his videos, but I seem to forget it myself as soon as I'm doing something else than training static drills. I'll try to remember to keep my center of gravity low! My A-percentage has declined a lot after switching to major, gonna have to try and focus a bit more

This is very interesting, this is also a lot closer to what I do although pretty much unconsciously. I've always read people talking about seeing sights lift but I haven't gotten a proper hang of it. Thanks for explaining!

how do you call your shots if you don't see your sights lift? Just by feel?

Looking at the new rule proposals for the next GA, it seems that dryfire is allowed (a clarification has been added to note that dryfiring at ground is ok, thus I think it is ok now too). But yeah, the sight picture is correct. I've noticed that it makes for a better run if you don't think too much at LAMR, just get the gun ready and nod

What do you mean with full ipsc? AFAIK we don't limit the LAMR at IPSC

I don't think dry firing at LAMR is forbidden in IPSC. This addition exists in the rules proposal for the next GA: I interpret this as a clarification and not a new rule, thus implying that it is in fact allowed. Also, sight picture means aligning the sights with a target. Aiming at ground is OK

Single stack too?! I though this madness covered only production!

Open guns specifically? I've heard both here and recently in person that steel grips aren't good on open guns, but make a helluva difference in standard/limited More weight low and at the back, countering muzzle rise. Drawback apparently is sluggish transitions and weight.

If it doesn't, race holster time!

Double tap

If you take a mixed assortment of shooters and give them a mixed assortment of guns, the best shooter wins. If you take the very best shooters who have very similar skill levels, the one with the best gun wins. (very elaborate statement just to make a point) But then again, I definitely recommend buying a high end gun but you still must realize that practice is what makes you suck less. The high end gun on the other hand, lets you focus on the fundamentals, forgetting small magazines, bad trigger pull and strong muzzle flip. Also, the high end guns usually are just more enjoyable to shoot, making range time more fun! Win-win am I right? I started in open div and have progressed far faster than friends who started in production. I have also tried production div with loaner guns for fun and the results speak for themselves.