FunkyTownAggie

Is it possible to buy a separate TCM upper? I bought the 9mm hi cap Tac and would rather not buy an entire new gun.

I've got a RIA, STI and SVI. All are great at their price points. Basically buy what you're comfortable spending and be happy. If you're like me you'll eventually want to upgrade but I haven't sold the pistols I upgraded from as I still enjoy shooting them.

Can you post some pics?

I have, but only precision rifle rounds for the bolt action and match/long range rounds for the 223. I haven't reloaded any pistol yet. I've got the dies for the pistol rounds though, just haven't gotten around to it. Need to pick out some bullets. I do have CFE pistol powder and mixed range brass. So far I've just been shooting reman ammo in the pistols.

Thanks!

I got a brand new M3k and shot 50 rounds of buckshot and birdshot to break it in. I did have a few FTF. I've been able to reproduce it when hand cycling as well. The issue is the following shell will get stuck on the lifter. I can see the brass rim is friction fit on both sides of the receiver. Is it supposed to be this way? If i barely touch the lifter upwards it will successfully throw the shell up and chamber it.

I agree with going with the Hiperfire 24 triggers. The lighter the trigger pull the harder the hammer hits. I've got the 24-3G and I like it much more than the Timney 3lb and Velocity 3.5 lb I own on other guns and a lot more than any of the single stage Geissele triggers. Those triggers didn't reliably set off my 22LR upper but the Hiperfire has never missed a beat.

What's the scope exactly? If it's a 34mm it's probably a high mag scope with a 50+ mm bell. You'll want something that's at least 1.5" height over rail. The ADM's are proven, reliable and cost effective. If you want to go all out, I'd recommend a Spuhr. I've got one on my Desert Tech SRS and it's awesome. You won't be able to use separate rings since you most like will not have enough rail space on your AR to get adequate eye relief. I don't recommend putting any part of the scope mount on the handguard picatinny rail if you care about maintaining the best accuracy/precision. Which bolt gun do you have? Since you have an adjustable cheek pad, it's doable, you'll just be adding an extra half an inch to the scopes height over bore. Most traditional bolt guns use around 1" tall +/- .020" depending on the scope and cant (you mention you have a 20 MOA). Most people want the bell of the scope to almost touch the barrel. As long as your fine with the high scope look, you'll be good. As long as you pay attention to which part of the rail you mount it on and don't change the torque of the quick releases then I think you'll be within 0.5 to 1 MOA. If this is mainly for shooting at a range and don't care about 1st round hits (let's assume cold bore isn't in play) your plan is good. You'll most likely be doing a lot of elevation adjustment between the two since one has a 20 MOA rail. Remember if you get a mount with cant, you'll need to add that to the rail cant. with a 34mm scope, you should have enough adjustment for 40 MOA so you should be fine getting a 20 MOA cant scope mount. Unless you're shooting over 1500 yards, i'd stick with a 0 cant scope mount. Thinking about this more, I'm thinking the added eye relief of a cantilevered scope mount will give too much eye relief on your bolt gun. If this is the case, I'd recommend two separate scopes.

I'd still suggest zeroing at 200 since that's the yardage where zeroing (elevation drops) starts to matter. Your 50 yard zero will be close (usually) to your 200 yard zero but if you zero at 200 at least you know you'll be dead on at 200, at least elevation wise.

I've never checked my times and I've only been shooting 3 gun for a few months, but I think hoser targets/stage would benefit from having a lighter gun. You definitely need to have a good muzzle brake and optionally a well tuned gas system so it runs flat. As far as mid/long distance free hand shooting, I could see where heavier would be beneficial as long as you don't fatigue holding the gun causing you to shake.

I've been on this forum for 3+ years now but have never formally said hello. I've bought a few things on the classifieds here and am looking forward to learning, purchasing more and eventually selling. I moved to thee Austin, TX area last year and just started shooting 3 gun a few months ago. I used to shoot/compete in trap/skeet up in Fort Worth, but am glad I've tried 3 gun. I'd like to eventually do some USPSA. I've got too many guns for competition (is there really ever too many guns?) but I enjoy buying, trying and getting myself to try and sell. I've told myself instead of collecting watches I'll collect some high end guns.

Thanks. I found one from bayougump.

Thanks for the information. I wish these mags were easier to come by.

Good information. I've broken it down a few times so I can remove sear and hammer. Just wanting to know the specifics on what to do on the sear. I'll check out the videos.

I have the EGW hammer and sear that came with my 2nd hand limited elite. What can I expect to gain if I install it? It has the hemming flat trigger already. How difficult is it to install? I couldn't find any actual install instructions or videos for this specific sear and hammer.

I got one of the newer 9mm tactical hi cap with the ramped barrels. No failure to feed at all using my reloads. Am I understanding that there is no way to buy the same mags that came with this gun? Has anyone changed out the ignition kit on one of these? I'm tempted to put a egw or extreme engineering kit and tune it to a 2.5 lb pull.

What about an upper with a shorter barrel slide then the regular limited elite. Won't that look weird due to the fldc?

Thank you everyone. I'll be on the lookout for an upper with adjustable sights.

Definitely thanks. Short version, other than fitting any upper will work on a limited elite lower, right?

Thank you sir. I'll search for the t3 disco

I see many DA/SA tanfoglio owners using the Xtreme Titan hammer. Do you suggest using this on single action only pistols?

Is there any differences functionally on the uppers between the da/sa guns like stock 2 vs the limited elite. Also is there any difference between the elite match and elite limited uppers other than finish?

Thanks. Yeah I'd hate to spend 720 on just the upper. I'd rather find a used one.

I put in an extreme engineering sear, disconnector, hammer, Dawson took less guide rod, 12lb recoil spring, 17 lb main spring, extended mag release and Dawson ice Magwell. Not sure what else id want to replace right now but it runs great with the 2.5 lb pull. I did have a hammer follow every now and then at 2 lbs. I probably need to adjust the hammer sear interface to get 2 lbs reliably. All I did was a light polish out of the package.

Does it matter what conversion kit I get for my elite limited? Is EAA the only source for them. The limited elite kits are pricey.