Elcidaviator

Thank you! I’m going to go through my parts bin tonight and figure out what I need. I’ll PM you.

I saw that on another thread. I am reshaping the beaver tail, but that’s a little extreme for my taste. I don’t think it would look good with a classic blue and wood grips.

Where’d you pick up the H9 at? I’ve been drooling over them for a while and I love the companies story.

I got ahead of myself and before I remembered to take pictures I disassembled the pistol. ohhh well here's how it looks without the internals. As you can see the pistol has a descent amount of damage. The lock up is pretty bad, and it will need a new barrel bushing. There are some pretty deep nicks toward the barrel that will take a fair amount of filling to get out. The next step is stripping and draw filling. I'm going to reshape the beaver tail, high cut the trigger guard and bevel the magwell. Hopefully it comes out looking descent when all is said and done.

And so it begins... A few weeks back I purchased a poor condition CZ-75 Pre B as a gift for my father. My dad doesn't know it, but I bought the gun for him and I have been asking his advice throughout the project to allow him to build his own gun. I send him text messages asking things like; what grips would look good, or what finish should I go with? His suggestions are become the plan for the build. As part of the gift, I plan to document the progress here and show him this thread. Hopefully he enjoys the progress and some of the trials and tribulations that went into his new blaster. So without further delay here's what I started with...

Whats the stats on the S2 vs Shadow in production? I haven’t been able to shoot USPSA in the last two years so I have no idea what’s the “in” Gun.

Keep an I on riflegear.com. I just bought a CZ TSO .40 from them. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

I'll always throw in a good word for Rocky Mountain Reloading. They are within a couple bucks of Bayou, Missouri and Other high-tec coated bullets. However, they offer free shipping so they are actually cheaper. There bullets are plated and are the best that I've shot in that price range. Plus, they usually ship the same day you order and arrive a couple days later.

Here's my combo: 45% mineral spirits 45% Nu Finish 10% Turtle Wax chrome polish Mix it in any old spray bottle. Shake it well before adding 5 or 6 sprays to the tumbling media. This will prevent it from clumping. Cleans/shines nicely and lasts a lot longer then just NF and MS.

This is the material I was pulling out of my barrel when my 147 Precisions were tumbling. Again it didn't matter what I did, different powder charges, bell, crimp...nothing. Even through 3 different barrels. They stopped tumbling when I switched to HP-38. But I would still get the coating shredded like this in the barrel. PF ranged from 124-135.

Look at the "leading" again and see if it's coating of lead. I'll post a picture of the crap I took out of my barrel.

I also played with the bell, crimp and powder charges to no avail. Look at the "leading". I found that when I examined the crap I was pulling out of the barrel it was actually strips of the coating. I too pulled a bunch of bullets and they looked perfect.

FWIW, I was having the same problem with 147 Precisions in a Walther PPQ, S&W Shield and CZ 75. I was using Titegroup and couldn't get them to stabilize with that powder, no matter what I did. I switched to HP-38 and got them to stabilize but I could never stop the excessive leading. I even sent Precision a bunch of e-mails trying to work it out. They told me, "the bullets must not like the barrel". My thought was, I tried 3 barrels so maybe it's the bullets. My solution was to switch to RMR Plated bullets for $7 more/1000. I haven't looked back since.

I shot a Walther PPQ Gen-1 for about a year in USPSA. The mag release is a paddle on the trigger gaurd. I would talk to the RO before the stage and let them k ow that that's where my trigger finger will sit during reloads/transitions. I never had any issues.

You are correct. They are indeed plated. For some reason I thought they were calling their bullets coated for some reason. Non the less I've had great experience since switching from Precision Moly bullets to RMRs.

Rocky Mountain Reloading has some. Is there any reason why nobody seems to use Rocky Mountain Reloading? I've sent 2000 down the pipe and I love them so far. They are usually around $80/1000 shipped which is on par for all moly coated bullets. I'm just curious as to why they are never mentioned.

I've seen the same thing out of an IMT case loaded at 130ish PF. They go in the trash with Ammoload cases. They are pure crap. Oddly enough my CZ ejected both halves. I didn't know it happened until I was cleaning up my brass.

Johnbu, I have thought about media as a possibility. I would find media in the primer pocket from time to time. This was a problem with my turret press but not so much with my progressive.

I've used WSF, HP-38 and titegroup. Out of all of them I would choose HP-38, but you can't find it. WSF is good. It meters really well. However, it's dirty if you don't push it relatively hard. I'm loading 4.95 grains under a 125 grain bullet and it's pretty dirty.

So I've loaded two squibs in around 4000 rounds. The first I can chalk up to poor procedure an inattention to detail. I was loading on a RCBS turret press an I must have loaded one without powder. Lesson learned I changed the way I reloaded. I put every case with powder into a bullet tray, then I inspect all 50 cases for powder, amount and height (just in case a .380 slipped by all my checks). I then placed the bullets on top before seating and crimping. Well sure as shit I had another squib. I know for a fact all the rounds had powder. I've scratched my head for 6 months and still can't figure it out. So I switched to a Dillon 550 and I've been so extremely happy with the change. I find the visual check to be extremely easy standing over the press as I reload. I only load 200 rounds per hour but I'm extremely confident in the quality. Bottom line squibs suck and they scare the shit out of me.

I don't have any issues with WSF in my 550. However, I had static problems with any powder in my RCBS powder measurer. As stated above the fix was to wipe the thing down with dryer sheets. I however used new dryer sheets and wiped down the inside. I didn't have any issues after that.

As described above, mine walks to the side and then stays there and everything is working just fine. Thanks for all the great feedback. Cheers!