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E53X5

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Everything posted by E53X5

  1. I just drilled the holes through the back of the metal belt clip of the CCW caddies and attached the fork to it.
  2. Williams FireSights have pretty small FO rods on both front and back sights. Don't remember the exact size, but it may very well be .040".
  3. The problem with Nordic is you can't buy one anywhere... And if you order directly from them, they are 6+ months backordered. As such, I have to keep suffering with my temperamental CMMG...
  4. I have 3 930s, and all 3 of them do this. I've always thought it was part of the design...
  5. You can't really go much more aggressive that that on the feedramp. The way you have it cut, there is practically no lower feedramp left, and bringing it any more forward would end up cutting into the magazine tube itself. The upper feedramp is also very short, so there is not much you can do to it without making things worse. It's also a huge PITA to get to, so about the only thing you can do there is polish it a little with just one finger. As for the forearm, instead of cutting it shorter than it already is, I simply put a much more aggressive bevel on mine and it feels much more comfortable now when loading 2. Simply cutting it shorter will not help much because you will still have the "tall" edge, plus your receiver plug (I don't know what it's actually called) will now be exposed, too, creating another "obstruction" for your hand to go over. I guess you could try beveling it a little, too, and create a continuous bevel from the "plug" to the handguard, but I think you're getting into the area of diminishing returns at this point. Finally, when making the lifter slot wider, you're running a higher risk of getting the shells hung up on the forward edge of it.
  6. Does either MLS 17 or QLS 22 have the same hole pattern as ELS 35 receiver and can attach directly to the ELS belt?
  7. It's not their spring, so they wouldn't know where it came from. All I know is that the JM 930 (8+1 model at least) shares the same spring with 930 SPX (7+1)
  8. I was afraid of going much further becasue there wasn't much of the ramp left, so I figured this would be good enough. It's the stock follower that I broke the edges on a little and went over it with some Flitz.
  9. Just finished putting mine back together, so here are some pictures as promised. It's hard to get a good close up of the port, so this was as good as I could get.
  10. This thread inspired me to take a Dremel to my JM Pro last night, so I'll try taking some pictures after I'm done.
  11. Same load here. Federal target #7.5 1oz. and #8 1 1/8 oz.. Yes, shooting a little high, so I have to make sure to bring my stock up higher into my shoulder.
  12. I would agree with most of the above. Instead of welding up my lifter though, I simply rounded off sharp corners of the "fork" and beveled all of the edges with a Dremel. It made it much "slicker" and I have yet to have my thumb pitched, not even an attempt. I also broke it completely down and went over every part with some Flitz and polished everything that moved - chamber, barrel extension (there were some very rough and nasty machining marks on it), bolt, carrier, hammer, magazine tube, inside of the piston, inside of the gas chamber, follower, top of the lifter, etc. Took me a couple of days to get it all done, but I think it was worth it and it feels smoother now. I got rid of the barrel clamp - it just wouldn't stay put and kept sliding forward from recoil. If I tried clamping it down harder, it would squeeze the magazine tube extension enough to cause the "sticky follower" syndrome. I also wish I could drop the stock a little more, because I'm still looking down at the rib even with the .250 spacer. I think I'll try making my own spacer to drop it a little more, but it looks like I can only get another 1/8 out of it at most. All in all, I'm happy with this gun so far. As far as loading the magazine goes, you do have to push the rounds fairly deep into it, or you risk having a round pop back out onto the lifter, which means you're done topping off at that point. But I also noticed that loading rounds into my 930 is much easier than into my buddy's M2. It seemed like it took almost twice as much pressure to load a round into his M2 than it did with 930, which may just be the weight of the spring he had in his M2 vs. what the 930 comes with (it looks like they ship the 930 JM 22" model with the same spring they use in the 930 SPX model). One thing that worries me more than anything else through is the fact that I've had a couple of light primer strikes so far (one during practice a couple of weeks ago, and another one during the match yesterday). It appears to be a fairly common problem with these guns, and I'm not sure what the solution to it may be.
  13. It feels pretty solid, but I haven't done much running around with a loaded shotgun with it, so I can't tell for sure. As far as moving the socket around, it mostly will depend on the design of the stock you're mounting it on. If your stock is hollow in the area where you want the QD socket mounted, then it should work fine.
  14. How do you guys lube your 930 JM Pro (or any other 930 for that matter)? I use a few drops of Slip 2000 on the bolt and carrier, just to get it a little wet. I then put a drop or two on my index finger and rub it all over the piston, and inside the gas chamber (or whatever it's called, the part that's attached to the barrel), just to the point where it has a very thin coat. I also spread a few drops on the outside of the magazine tube before sliding the parts onto it (the spring, pusher, spacer, etc.). Finally, I slightly lube the part of the barrel that goes inside the receiver since the bolt rides against it. This method seems to work pretty well for me, but I've also heard others say that shotgun pistons should be run completely dry, and lubing them does nothing but attracts dirt and causes it all to bake onto the parts instead of getting blown out. Anyone tried running it dry? I'm just having hard time letting any moving parts run completely dry...
  15. Yes, I got the Invector one, not the Plus. I couldn't find Carson extended Mossberg/Win/Invector chokes on their website, other than the ones that have been discontinued.
  16. yep-the browning invector is interchangeable with the mossberg. just bought a few. Great, thanks!
  17. Does anyone know if Brownells carries these extended Briley chokes for 930? I'm getting ready to order some parts from them anyways, but I'm having hard time finding them. They list Mossberg option in their search criteria, but it just keeps bringing back Browning chokes...
  18. I didn't see this mount when I ordered my QD sockets, otherwise I probably would have gone this route. However, now that I have the Mesa Tactical clamp, it looks like a better option anyways - it feels more solid and less prone to snagging on something.
  19. Yes, it's the Nordic XXL (1.5") end cap. The Mesa Tactical clamp offers the same support for the mag tube as the Nordic clamp. It doesn't wrap as much, but still enough to get a good grip on the barrel/magazine extension.
  20. Just wanted to post an update. I swapped the Nordic clamp with a Mesa Tactical clamp with integrated QD sockets, for a lighter cleaner look and lower profile.
  21. As well as his muzzle and trigger finger discipline...
  22. I'm thinking about getting a small airsoft gun for my kids (6 and 8) to start learning gun handling with. I have one of the S*I airsoft copies (can't remember the brand, it's been a few years since I bought it), and they love shooting it, but it's way too big for their small hands. Is there anything out there that's either a smaller scale airsoft copy of real guns, or just airsoft versions of small framed guns like Kahrs, Bersa, Walter P22, etc? I'm not particular about the brand or type, as long as it has the same operation as a real gun. TIA.
  23. I use Daniel Defense QD rail mount attached to the Nordic rail. I'm also trying to see if there is a way to add the same Noveske flush mount to the handguard of the 930, but there may not be enough room there for it.
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