A6Gator

Loaded up 20 180gr 40 S&W (Universal/170pf) w/WSP. When WSP primers ran out, I loaded same thing with WSR primers and loaded 20 more. WSR loads averaged 50 fps more. No pressure signs. Used a 1911, with no issues. Don’t know if there would be any issues w/light spring/light pin striker guns.

Using Federal brass is the right answer. Loading 165's is why I started sorting brass by headstamp. The brass you absolutely want to avoid is anything that's stepped on the inside, like FM, Ammoland, IMT and the like. A friend had case separation with 147's and stepped brass. It won't get better with 165's...

Anyone loading 135gr Blue Bullets over N320 or WST?

Just worked up some 135 Xtreme jhp. 3.6gr N320 @ 1.145 gave me average 129.6 PF on a 70 degree day out of a Q5. TG and N320 are pretty close in burn rates, so depending on what you're shooting, I'd probably start around 3.4-3.5.

Resurrecting an old(er) thread, but I was wondering if anyone has tuned their JP buffer for lighter loads. I'm running a .380 bullet in a 9mm case for Steel Challenge and it shoots pretty softly (a bit disconcerting at first), but was thinking perhaps going to a lighter spring and maybe another steel vs tungsten weight might make it even faster. I was surprised at the broad range of loads that the GMR-13 buffer will cycle, but, in this case, I'm trying to cycle things around 85-90 PF. Thoughts?

I like the feel of PD's 147gr 9mm FMJ's over Titegroup and N320, but I was thinking about trying their FMJ-TC's next. I was wondering if anybody had any experience with the TC's. I would imagine it's a little shorter, given the ogive difference and was wondering if the hole it makes in a cardboard target is any different from a regular round(ed) nose FMJ. I'm shooting out of a 5" STI, so I usually load somewhere around 1.15-1.16".

I was looking at some 165gr loads on another website and they had issues with cases that were stepped inside. The headstamps IMT, AMMOLOAD and FM had those cases. The thinking is that since the 165's are so long, that they swage themselves on the step in the case. It resulted in case separation.

My 165 Xtremes should be arriving on Monday. I'm thinking long like you, like 1.17. Should work okay with my STI. I'm planning on loading with Titegroup or N320. The only downside I've heard of for 165's, since they're so long is to use brass that doesn't have the inner ring like the ones with a headstamp FM or IMT. I sorted my range brass (yes, it's a PIA, but I found some), but don't have to worry about swaging bullets in the cases.

1:8 18" JP does 55gr whatever very well out to 200yds. I experimented with Prvi Match 69gr and Hornady Steel Match 75gr. Prvi did well at 200-300, with 4-5" groups. However, the Hornady stuff I could cover with a watch at 300. They were like laser bullets.

The match we put together in Memphis for last Saturday had a (comparatively) reduced round count, basically 50 rifle/50 handgun and 30 shotgun w/bonus slug targets thrown in. I polled my shooters and also had a big discussion before walk-thru. Our poll responses were all over the board, which is why I thought I'd discuss it w/the guys who actually showed up that morning. The response was that most guys liked the reduced round count that we had set up, using 1/2 size USPSA targets and some challenging target positioning. That being said, we're going to include a Tactical Economy class for the rimfire AR guys. We have a bunch of shooters here who have rimfire AR's since we started shooting rifles as a second gun in Steel Challenge. As I envision it, we'll squad the rimfire guys separately and they'll be scored separately. We're looking at a revision to neutralizing target scoring, too. For now, we'll make their longest shots 100yds or so. With our range here, we're pretty much restricted to 300yds max anyway, so the .223 guys will shoot out to that distance on flash targets. The shotgun/handgun side will remain the same. While we realize, nobody got into 3 Gun because it was cheap, access to rifle ammo, given the current level of idiocy, is a real challenge for some of our guys. I've heard some guys are having problems getting buckshot and slugs, too. So we'll dial it back a bit on that front, too. No more 32 round slug/buckshot stages for awhile... We shoot the third Saturday of every month, so we'll see how it works out. I think keeping up the level of participation is important too. It'll be a balancing act, trying to create challenging stages and keep round counts within some degree of normalcy, but then I don't think it's any greater challenge than trying to keep it interesting for the master-level guys and not so hard that the FNG's quit after their first match. That's why MD's get those big bucks...

I have some of the early California Competition Works 4 round shell caddies with the little springs on each side on the shell side and the stiff spring steel on the belt attaching clip, rather than the newer flat, single spring models. I was wondering if anyone out there has converted their early CCW shell caddies to the Safariland ELS system. I got an ELS-Kit with the ELS 34/35 locking forks, but it doesn't look like an easy or clean conversion. I'm good with drilling holes or super gluing stuff, but this one looks like it's beyond that. Anyone done this before?

Jacob, I have a CD-I reticle in my Z6i and I just closed the curtains and cranked the illumination full up, I stayed completely in the ring and dot. Got a pretty good blossom around the ring, but that's to be expected. I shot a match last weekend and didn't have to crank the illum up all the way with the sun out, but the stages were oriented to the North (sun at my back), so I don't know if facing the other way would've washed out the reticle or not. I've found w/the CD reticle, I don't normally need to turn the illumination on in the daytime. YMMV. If I can figure out how to attach a pic, I'll try it with my phone.

Thanks! I guess I need to figure out just how much needs to come off. I know it's just a bit too long, because it hangs up a bit when I'm trying to mount it and have to push/pull to get it correctly in the shoulder. Does the inner elbow to trigger finger distance still apply?

Has anyone out there trimmed the stock on their SX2? The length of pull on the SX2 Practical is just a bit too long for me and I was wondering if there was anything to shortening the stock on a belt sander.

John Paul seems pretty intense about his rifles. I mean, who else gives reloading data to maximize accuracy. Most other manufacturers will void a warranty for reloads. If JP says there's a break-in procedure, there's probably a reason for it. He includes the bore treatment when he ships a rifle (or upper). While some may not need it, I would imagine, looking at an average, his rifles are probably more accurate with the proscribed break-in procedure. For what a JP barrel costs, if it takes 30 mins, why not?