TDA

With the 650 and a case feeder, all you are doing is cycling the handle up and down and placing bullets on the cases. You should be able to sit at your SDB and cycle the handle at the normal rate and simulate placing bullets in order to determine the time savings when working at your normal pace. I just picked up an XL650 and case feeder and was using a SDB previously. The 650 is definitely faster, but I've only loaded a couple hundred rounds just to see how it works. I'm definitely not giving up my SDB!

I loaded up 20 rounds with 4.5g of Universal Clay's and the barrel looks clean and they felt good. I'll probably try some of the other powders as well while I'm at it. I ended up with a couple thousand of these Cast LRN's, so I'd like to find a suitable load for my pistols and put them to good use. Thanks for the help!

Personally, I wouldn't re-seat a primer on a live round. Pull the bullet and start over. Any time I have missing primers it's either a small primer case sneaked in, or a crimped primer case.

I'll try a Min load (4.5) of Universal to slow things down a bit. Also have the following if one of them might be more suitable. Bullseye N320 Blue Dot 700X HP-38 WSF

The bullets are 18 BHN. Product Type: Bullets Caliber: .45 Grains / Weight: 230 Description / Style: Round Nose Hard Cast Sized & Lubed Lead Quantity: 500 Manufacturer: Rocky Mountain Reloading New or Pulled: New Brinnel Hardness: 18 I'll try some of these in my 1911 and see what happens, but I tried some lubed 200g LSWC's in my 1911 and quickly switched to coated LSWC's due to leading. That was with 5g of Red Dot though. I haven't had any luck with lubed lead so far... Thank you for the replies!

I'm trying to use up some .452" 230g lubricated LRN's and am picking up what seems like quite a bit of barrel leading shooting them in a P220 Sig with 3.5g of Clay's at 1.2" OAL. (Clay's shows 3.5 as Min and 4.0 as Max for 230g LRN) By quite a bit, I shot fifteen rounds and the first 3/8" of the rifled area is coated in lead. I'm new to this reloading stuff, but I loaded up ten of the lubed LRN's, ten of Berry's 230g plated, and ten 230g jacketed rounds, all using 3.5g of Clay's in my 1911 and the lubricated lead have quite a bit more felt recoil than the others. Would this be normal? I was hoping to use these in my P220 to cut down a bit on using my 1911. Any suggestions to cut down on the leading, or should I just ignore it and keep shooting? Thanks

Did you try adjusting the seating die?

Remove the three screws that hold the primer system in and remove the entire primer assembly. Then just turn it over and dump them out of the tube.

If you look in the back of your manual it will list the different parts needed for each caliber. I'm pretty sure you will need a different shell plate for 9mm if yours is for .38.

I have two powder measures and one had no cling problem regardless of powder, and the other was like a powder magnet. Even N320 coated the inside of it when you tried to dump it out. This morning I wiped it out with a cloth that was lightly sprayed with a "anti-static" plastic cleaner (aerosol can) and now nothing clings to it. I used some Clay's in it and it dumped out clean without a trace of powder sticking to it.

Haven't had the first problem with my Dillon funnels and coated bullets. I load .45, .40., and 9mm and have had no shaving and am putting an almost undetectable flare on the cases. I was loading .40 tonight and pulled the first four bullets to check the crimp and could not tell the pulled bullets from the ones in the box. I also set my crimp so it doesn't leave any mark on the coating. Two SDB's and a 650 I haven't even used yet.

The case will not bell with the hopper removed.

I'm no 1911 expert, but I can't imagine a "drop in" sear spring that could possibly be set correctly. I used a Wilson heavy duty spring and probably spent a good hour or two tweaking it and checking the leaf tensions with a Lyman gauge to get it where I wanted it. Edit: I just Googled "1911 sear spring adjustment" and there is quite a bit of info out there. It may be worth looking at for a number of reasons. I see that there is one from Brownell's written by Jack Weigand that may be quite helpful.

Is the straight expander on the MrB powder funnel the same diameter as the Dillon, or is it slightly larger?

I'm going to order both 155's and 175's in the morning and give them a try. Thank you both for the info as it was very helpful!

Thank You! I haven't bought bullets yet, so I may also look at the 155g LSWC's. I have found data for the 175's using N340, but I already have N320, so I was trying to find something for that first. I Googled around for some N340 this morning, but have not seen any available right now. A Chronograph is high on the list, but I have not found anywhere to use it yet.

Did you chrono a round to see if your scale had a spazz attack and the load possibly changed?

I have been shooting .45 coated LSWC,s and just loaded and shot some 9mm 125g coated LSWC's with VV N320 and was very impressed. I'm going to start loading .40 and see that Bayou has 175g LSWC's available, but after searching, i found little on load data for them, and even less with N320. The issue I see with using 180g RNFP data is that SWC's usually take up more case volume. Does anybody out there load these with N320 in the range of major PF that would share some data? I have Red Dot as well, but it doesn't meter as well as the N320. The LSWC's may not be of much use since .40 already cuts a nice round hole in paper, just a bit smaller, but I thought they looked interesting and would like to try them! Thanks!! Edit: I guess I should add that I do not yet have a Chrono or I'd just noodle it out on my own!

I reload .45 ACP on an SDB and have had no problems at all. I recently picked up a second SDB and am using it for 9mm and have had no problems with it either.

I'll end up with about 500 once fired small primer 45's. I have about 400 new Blazer Brass 45's to shoot, and have picked up about a hundred cases at the range, so I'm waiting to do a batch of them. I haven't run across any Promo yet, but I'll try it if i do. Just bought some VV N310 and N320 to try.

No kidding! I bought a second supposedly never used SDB set up for .40 S&W for a good price. Now I will have one dedicated to large primer/.45, and a second dedicated to small primers for .40 and 9mm. I bought a 9mm conversion kit and tool head earlier, and it seemed like every time I wanted to load 9mm it was set up for large primers and .45. Then when I needed to load .45 it was always set up for small primers and 9mm...

How is it you are you moving the third knuckle when pressing the trigger?

How much did the pound of powder actually weigh?

I find that for me it makes no real difference in accuracy if I use the pad on my finger or the first joint (keep it straight) on my finger. What does make a difference is the leverage on the trigger as using the pad decreases the leverage and the trigger feels heavier. What I find makes the difference is not bending the finger at the first joint and bending it at the second joint only. With my large hand and long finger that puts my finger perpendicular to the trigger motion and easier to maintain a straight rearward pull.

I wonder about that too, but don't really have a choice with my hand size. Full size Beretta 92.