dlightning

Thank you everyone. First I am very new to rifle reloading so my miles vary differently from everyone due to lack of knowledge. I check the brass after re-sizing so that I don't proceed to load bad brass (save time). I check again after all is done. I did not want to chance on a round that would chamber and extract but would not pass the JP gauge. BECAUSE: the AR is hard to discern whether the round is chambered fully. The visual inspection is limited. Bolt does move fully forward but I was doubting myself. I wanted something else to check versus the visual of chambering a live round that might or might not fit. Being new to rifle reloading I want to eliminate the doubts. I have used Redding competition and non competition FL sizer dies, Forster Ultra sizer, and Dillon. So far the Dillon does the job by producing brass that passes the JP gauge. Maybe SB dies are not a must for AR but a must for the JP gauge.

Currently my work flow is after resizing and before checking with the gauge, I wipe the case down with a rag that has a degreaser on it. When I first started with rifle I did not use the mild solvent. I believe wiping it down to de-lube helps.

Budget? Because it can get out of hand quickly.

I assume this is not production legal since it uses the race hammer?

All the rounds chamber even the ones that did not pass the JP gauge. I still did not feel comfortable using rounds that did not pass the JP gauge especially in a rapid fire match condition. I trim after resizing which is after a wet tumble. So I made some changes. Switched to a shell holder versus using the lock jaw with the Forster press. This helped a little. The Forster resizer die did not help. I tried and will continue to use a small file. Thank you bigedp51 Purchased a Dillon die set. This help a lot. Thanks for the suggestion ffgats I ultimately switched to Lake city brass. Which now pass most of the time. If it doesn't pass then it is very very close. I was using Freedom Munition ammo and saving the brass. I think it was just too soft. So for now I'll start working up bigger batches. Then eventually switch the whole thing over to my 650.

Thank you to everyone. I just made another order to midway. That is the third one this week.? The case seems to stop very close to the lip. I'll try the small file tonight. Thank you you for all the help.

How do I do this?

I had originally turn it 1/8th of a turn then add another 1/8th twice. Which ended with 3/8th of a turn and it still has not improve the results. Driving me nuts. I ordered the Forster shell holder adapter so I can use a traditional shell holder. Also coming is a Forster sizer die. Hopefully all this will help. I'll order the slot gauge if all this does not give better results.

Just recently got into reloading rifle. In the process of sizing 5.56 brass with a Redding Type S. About 30% is failing to pass the JP case gauge. My steps are: Wash and rinse range brass, Sort Deprime Wet tumble lube Re-size Check with case gauge (JP) My press is the Forster Co-axel. I have called Redding and the tech gettleman said to lower the ram and give it another 1/8 of a turn. I need help on what to do.

124 xtreme HP, 3.8 Titegroup, loaded to 1.11. No chrono so I can't tell the PF.

I have this exact same experience. Although I did the test at 15 yards bench.

I have the SDP and love the way it shoots. But the problems is finding a holster that would work for me. I like the Raven Concealment Eidolon for comfort. Which is only for Glocks. So I carry the Glock most of the time because of the holster. Comfort and conceal ability. I carry the SDP in the winter with heavy clothes.

I run 15lb ism uncapture in my G35 with major power factor.

Thanks for the info. I was under the impression this CZ plate does not fit the Mec Gar mags. But I'll give them a try. Thanks again.

That is what I would like to get but still need the internal locking plate.

I want to convert my Mec Gar magazines with the plus @ base pad to the standard base pad. The problem is that the locking plate is very different. Anyone know where I can purchase just the standard lock plate? With the nub so that I can use Hennings base pad. Thanks

What division?

What are those sights?

Took your advise, I went with a fixed rear sight. I also bought the sight pusher. The original sights did not budge at all with the hammer and polymer punch. Thanks Cody

Sorry for asking this question, I have read this post over and over and might have missed the answer. Is the grip smaller than the regular TS? More inline with a shadow? Or somewhere in between? Thanks

Are frame weight legal in 3 gun?

I would do the same of picking a CZ over a tanfo because of the trigger. Personally I just like the CZ trigger better. Although the tanfo was a great fit in hand. I own the tanfo and sold it. I have other CZ but not the TS. Played with it plenty.

It is not true 1x. At least not mine. Never had problem with th dot being too big.

Just got a second hand Accu-shadow. Weapon was almost new as describe by a forum seller. However it was shooting high and I adjusted the elevation and notice there was NO click. I read the description on CZC website saying there is a click. The adjustment screw was very easy to turn. I did not trust it so I mark it with a sharpie on the sight and the screw. Took it out of the range bag and notice the screw had move. The detent that makes it click is way stuck in the hole. Can this be fix? If so how? Should I replace the sight? If so which sight or with another HAJO. I am leaning towards a fix sight but then it does not compensate for bullet weight. I do switch between 124 and 147.

I borrowed a jig and put dimples onto my barrel and that was it. Also have the sniper gray.