alma

Hate to give you the bad news but you are stuck with the factory trigger profile in Production. I used to have a few that I rounded off myself but since it's visible externally then technically it's not a modification that you can make. However, at the local club matches I seriously doubt that anyone would question that or even the PPQ.

I wondered into a gun show and saw one of the new 97Bs for sale. What a nice looking gun! They have put a lot of thoughtful upgrades on it: FO front sight, aluminum grips, 85 trigger... I think this is going on my wish list as the gun I will carry when I am out in the sticks. I have a Compact L and have been impressed with how nice the trigger can be made to feel.

Paper plate with a dot in the middle from a permanent marker?

Strange that it isn't consistent since the pin on the plunger is a great way to keep the magwell in place. You can tell that this magwell isn't set up like that since there is no hole on the bottom of the well that would allow you to push up the pin. I would just grind off the pin from the factory part. No one is going to see it where it's at anyway.

I think I establish my grip with more of a subtle push down into the grip tang while it is in the holster. This settles my hand into the correct location while I wrap it around the grip for the draw. Take the "two stage" comment with a grain of salt because it's hard to see exactly what you are doing but from the back something doesn't look quite right. At first I though you were scooping a bit on the draw. That is where the motion of your gun dips and then comes up during your draw. The opposite of that is called fishing, where you bring the gun up too high (often with the muzzle in the air) and then bring it down align your sights. After looking again it didn't look as dramatic as any of those examples but it did look a bit like from you holster your gun might be going up to your chest and then out as opposed to clearing the holster just enough and then driving the gun directly to the spot you want it with the least amount of divergence from that path. Please don't take my word for it as its hard to see everything from your video but do try to video your self for your own analysis from the side during dry fire practice. It's good to see that you are shooting video at matches. Try to do more of that. Time on the clock while shooting a stage has always been deceptive. For me, it's only through reviewing match video that I get a good understanding of were I was fast or slow during a match. Sometimes it's a pain to get someone to film but of you are lucky you can find a friend who doesn't mind filling you if you then film him or her.

I would be interested in seeing pictures

Hello from Springfield! I will have to catch up on the rest of the thread but I wanted to mention that it looks like you are initially coming up too high on your draw are your hands are meeting closer to your body than they need to. It's hard to tell for sure from this angle but it looks like your left hand is going further towards your holster than it needs to. Although I index my left hand on my chest it meets my gun hand about 10 inches from it. Also, how is the tension on your holster? You have a definite pause from the time when your strong hand hits the gun to when you have it out of the holster as if it was tensioned in too tight or you didn't get the grip you were looking for. When you draw you need to ensure that as soon as your muzzle clears the hoster you are moving it to the point where you want it to be using the most direct path. I definitely see the gun going to high and it makes for a staggered two-stage looking draw out of the hoster versus one smooth motion. Not saying this is perfect but here is mine. YouTube has a .25% speed setting that really helps for analyzing things like this.

That sucks. time for an angry letter to Walther (assuming they have production numbers).

Why the effort to apply downward/upward pressure?

Stainless guide rod will be fine and won't add too much additional weight. Grip force adapter is out for sure. The Gen 4s come with interchangeable back straps from the factory but that changes nothing on the Gen 3s.

Doesn't work as well on guns with an external hammer unless the hammer is already cocked.

LOL, thats some serious tape..I reload with a front press anyways I just pinch the front with the webbing between my thumb and pointer and works well for me with the front serrations Or was using the front and it was okay but still not as fast for me to grab. I was actually considering some type of front slide cuts to improve my grip on the thing but tried the rear grip tape instead. Very happy with the results and for me it makes a huge difference in how quick I can rack.

I recorded this video for another shooter but it may be helpful to you as well. Make sure you are getting your weak hand properly engaged. You should be striving for a more even grip pressure with both hands. Consistency will came with practice and dry fire reloading practice seems like the best for building your consistency. Be sure to include half speed reloads and make sure everything is looking right before you start to speed up.

Here you go. The Grip tape is to help resolve my biggest complaint with shooting a CZ in 3 Gun, the small surface area available for slide racking. Also notice the hoster modification to support tensioning on those stages which require running the the gun in the holster.

Looks like it's a bit late but I saw a pretty awesome Dan Wesson SSC at the local gun show this weekend that was in your price range. Looked like this: http://czcustom.com/danwessonsscustomcal40sandwstainlessfiberopticfsambisafetysharkgrips.aspx

It seems like I read about this somewhere (perhaps the Enos book) that talked about purposely shooting from right to left just to break the mental habit and to bring more awareness to what you are doing as opposed to running on auto pilot. I will say that if I have a scenario with a target array followed by a reload and engagement on the same array that I often run it both ways. This allows me to stay relatively indexed on one target during my reload.

Forgot to mention that I have some creative grip tape work on my slide for all of those empty chamber starts. I will post that later

I have a TS in 9mm that I got for 3 gun and it is working really well. I am thinking of getting some basepads for my SP01 Shadow so I have them option of running it as well. I think I like the reset better on my Shadow but I like the sight radius of the TS. I would feel perfectly competitive with either.

I was using some tools that I should have not been using on a CF handguard trying to get it tensioned tighter. It may have been paranoia but I swear my hands were itching for two days. Handguard went into the trash can rather than risk anything further.

Right!

Sounds like a great set up. Focusing on one primary style of loading is a good suggestion. Also, ensure that when you are walking through your stage plan ensure that you include the proper motions to mimic your reloading.

I don't think it's faster one way or the other. I think it's just the direction of habit for people whose language reads left to right.

I am no longer using the pin and the large magwell is the only thing keeping in the mainspring. Seems to work just fine.

The trigger pin can be a real paiNot saying you shouldn't do is yourself but you will need a big hammer and a concrete floor.