alma

There has been some discussion about general magazine set ups but I haven't seen anything discussing addressing issues with the sizing of the feed lips. One of my magazines has a large enough opening that it will allow the occasional round to pop straight out of the top as can be seen in the photo below. This is a new CZ 18 round mag with very little use. I can use my calipers to measure that it is wider at the top than my other mags but don't know the best approach to resizing the lips without damaging the mag tube. Your advice is greatly appreciated. Regards, Alma

I thinking you may have stumbled upon a sure fire way to make weight for IDPA!

Thanks for the advice. I finally got it off but it required unscrewing my adjustable rear sight to drift it from the top with a brass hammer. For a minute I was wondering if it was set in with red locktite when the sights were installed but it was just friction. Had to drift it back in when I was finished as well.

On a somewhat related note I though I would share a picture of what's left of the mag well on my Glock 34 after several years of flubbed dry fire reload drills and competition. Guess which one is the 34. I have to say that for me reloading and planning for reloads is what makes Production such a fun division to shoot.

Here is a TGO video with static reloads which supports that you don't need to be at eye level. I also like that this video gives a more realistic time expectation for shot to shot reloads (i.e. Expectations for 1 second mag changes may be unrealistic). I think if you are just learning then start higher but don't do anything that feels too unnatural. I shoot production and have always found shoulder high reloads felt the best and gave me the most consistency. Also, I have been paying more attention to the angle of my gun on mag insertion. I think that may have been the cause of many of my missed reloads.

I have a CZ n00b question for you all. I am trying to do a first time cleaning of the firing pin channel on my CZ 75 SP01 Shadow Target Custom but I am having difficulty removing the Firing Pin Stop. I am currently trying to use a punch to depress the firing pin while I push down on the stop but I can't get the stop to budge. Does anyone have an easier way of doing this? because of the position of the target sights over the siring pin stop there is no opportunity to push or leverage the stop from above. Thanks for the help, Alma

Looks like a great match. I am really looking forward to it. I have a concern about stage 7. Per 4.3.1.4 stages need to have at least one paper target. That is required to differentiate Major from Minor scoring. "4.3.1.4 Various sizes of metal plates may be used (see Appendix B5), however, metal plates must not be used exclusively in a course of fire. At least one authorized paper target or Popper must be included in each course of fire." Thanks, Alma Read your own quote of 4.3.1.4. "or Popper" Thank you; I stand corrected. I suppose that is what I get for not carefully reading my own paste . Looking forward to the match. Alma

Looks like a great match. I am really looking forward to it. I have a concern about stage 7. Per 4.3.1.4 stages need to have at least one paper target. That is required to differentiate Major from Minor scoring. "4.3.1.4 Various sizes of metal plates may be used (see Appendix B5), however, metal plates must not be used exclusively in a course of fire. At least one authorized paper target or Popper must be included in each course of fire." No issues here Thanks, Alma

Starting out a live fire practice session by squeezing off a few rounds of my friend's 454 Casual seemed less effective. Out of the gate my body felt like I had already shot three or four hundred round. Speaking of which are is there a maximum round count recommendation for effective live fire practice?

I just picked up some DAA Race Master aluminum pouches for my product rig and was almost disappointed. I had previously been running KyTac pouches for my Glock so I initially set up my DAAs straight up to mirror my KyTac. I found that the aluminum pouches are a bit unforgiving and any torquing while pulling out the mags caused them to bind in the pouch. They also feel large compared to what I had been using. Once I took advantage of the adjustment options to position the pouches in line with my arm alignment and normal mag change motion the difference was night and day. Now I find the release to be very fast and my mag changes feel much more consistent and repeatable. I still need to get in more range time with this gear but so far I am really liking what I see. As a bonus, the pouches match the red Aluminum grips on my CZ.

That is my experience as well. I think the theory is that the heavy slower rounds stay in the barrel longer during recoil. When the bullet exits the barrel the gun is further through the recoil stroke and therefore the barrel is pointed slightly higher.

I just picked up a gun from Stuart as well and I couldn't be more happy. With the competition trigger job out of the box I am at 6 lb double action and 2 lb 6 oz single. I believe I could swap out springs to lower that even more but I really like the pull and reset as is. The thing just wants to shoot. Coming from my splits with a Glock my jaw hit the floor of the range when I did my first Bill drill. I went to the range with a few friends from work. While there were plenty of choices in handguns to shoot there was one obvious favorite and there was always a line waiting to take the CZ for a spin. We put about 400 rounds of Winchester White Box through it with zero issues. As for accuracy I was sighting in at 7 yards using a square of target tape and hitting with relative ease. The whole experience is getting me excited about the sport again and I am really looking forward to the first match. Thanks again Stuart!

I know http://www.barsto.com/ makes some great barrels including custom jobs. I don't know about shipping them overseas.

Racial slur?

http://www.homestarrunner.com/ You would have to be following it to understand.

"2)Using the factory sights, I really had to get the rear sight over on the right side of the slide to get it to print POA. Not only did I drift the entire sight(with my thumb) to the right side of the slide, I move the adjustable part to the right. It is visibly off center when looking at the rear of the gun. " The gun will be very close to point of aim with the sights centered on the slide. I have seen a lot of 1911 shooters pull shots consistently to the left when transitioning from a single action to a Glock. Try moving your finger further onto the trigger so that you are close to the first joint and see if that helps any. Other than that, just shoot it and practice groups.

Guy, When I first developed my Major 9 load I was using Winchester SP primers because I was worried about ignition in my striker-fired Glock. The load did not look like it had that much flow back into the striker channel but it flattened the primers really well. After about 5000 rounds I started getting light strikes. We traced the problem back to primer –shaped fractures around the firing pin hole. Part of the breach face seemed to be rubbing on the striker after it cracked causing the light strikes. It also seemed to wear the striker out faster. The Glock armorer was surprised that the parts were still igniting primers (I used the same internal parts in my production gun but I went to Federal SP for ignition purposes.) My open slide had been lightened and it developed some hairline fractures around the cuts. These kind of fractures seem to be more likely on the Glock because once you get passed the super hard Tennifer(SP?) the inside is quite soft. Round 2- I have a brand new slide and all new internals to play with. I am using rifle primers exclusively and I do not plan on making any lightening cuts in the slide. I will be shooting this gun the rest of the summer so I will let you know what I find out.

Charlie uses all factory Glock parts except for springs.

benny, I am using a Browning Gold so I can just start shoving shells in the tube and the first one in will chamber automatically. I think browning calls it their "Auto load" or something like that. There is no difference from a chamber empty load to a chamber full load. Other than that feature the Browning Gold has an identical action to a Winchester SX2.

Any internal trigger work is just fine as long as the safeties still function as designed. I think that if you were to shoot IPSC production division only factory available options are legal.

I guess if I think about anything it would be what I want my sights to look like. When ever I have to think about something while I am shooting a stage I blew it.

Carver recomends 1/10th of an inch. You really should not cut into the slide unless you have to though. Once the tenifer has been removed it makes it very easy to crack the slide (yes I have cracked one already.)

oh... that stuff is slow. The only other potential way of doing it would be using the ambi release and your trigger finger to release the mag.

Are you putting a scope on the gun? If not lowering the ejection port is a bad idea.

My friend Dick Thompson does custom stocks for the K,L & N frame S&W Revolvers in many different colors. His contact info is bdgunner@silverstar.com or 208-540-7788