alma

From this discussion I can assume that no one would give up major scoring to gain a slightly softer shooting gun and to go from 18 to 22 rounds in the magazines. Does this mean that the V (Power) of the DVC is a mute point because no one can shoot that much faster and that much more accurate to justify scoring minor?

When I shoot a Glock I usualy have my finger close to the first joint of my finger. If I have my finger out on the pad I don't have as much strength to pull through. I also will tend to push the gun to the left more when I am out on my pad. I think what has happend is that your body is finding out for itself where you should be putting your finger when you shoot your Glock. Don't fight it, just do what comes naturally.

I have been struggling with this same problem for the last three years. The good news is that the problem is almost extinct for me now. I assume that when you shoot a Glock you pin the trigger (you only let out the trigger far enough to reset after the shot breaks.) This is a good technique but it will make you more likely to have trigger freezes. The three things that you can do to eliminate this problem are: Relax – The faster you try to shoot the harder it is to fight off tension. The tenser you are the harder it is to shoot quickly. This is still hard you me to do when shooting Bill Drills. The Bill Drill is a great exercise you can do to focus on staying relaxed. Slap your trigger on close targets- When you get to close “Warp Speed” targets, you need to really exaggerate your finger movement to the point where your finger is leaving the trigger on every shot. Get a trigger job- I am using a Vanek trigger right now. The Vanek lightens the pull and shortens the reset so that it is harder to double clutch my shots. Using these methods I am always under .20 on my close targets and a rarely trigger freeze now. Hope this helps.

the Glockfaq.com website has some scaled IPSC targets. http://www.glockfaq.com/asp/targets.asp?go...tition/ipsc.pdf They are 1/3rd size and I use to have them hanging all over my walls. I have seen other sites with more sizes.

How about scoring everything minor except for heavy metal division. Almost everyone shoots a minor rifle and shotgun targets are mostly knockdowns. The only change would be with the pistols. Most people could load a softer load for a pistol and going from 18 to 22 rounds would not be a big advantage for someone shooting a 9mm. This would let us use the current scoring program without any changes. It would also place a higher emphasis on accuracy.

www.lonewolfdist.com has a slide racker that replaces the plate on the back of the slide. http://www.lonewolfdist.com/products.asp?p...4&curRecIdx=21# Makos' charging handle is easily installed and it fits all Glock pistols. This is the perfect companion for use with all scope mounted sight systems or rifle stocks. Quickly converts for both right and left handed shooters. MAK-FCH Glock Charging Handle $59.95 [edit] Alma, nice find. I added the picture and the direct link.

I started shooting USPSA three years ago shooting production division with a Glock. I am still shooting production division with a Glock and I am pretty competitive with it now. Every few years I fight the urge to buy a STI and I just keep shooting what I have. I would say put the money away unless you feel that you want to get higher up on the overall combined division results. You can learn just as much about shooting from your SS 1911 as from another gun. You didn't say anything about a magwell for your 1911. I would get a trigger job done and buy a magwell before anything else. Then spend some money on ammo and ride that 1911 to the top of L10. Good Luck!

+1 The only time it would make a huge difference is when shooting one of those lovely 9 shot arrays of steel. I almost never make up shots on paper anyway.

I think that the key to shooting a FAST field course is to be aware of your momentum during the course. Starts and stops kill time. The more starts and stops or setups that you have the slower your field course will be shot. The reason that everyone says the top shooters look “smooth” is because they are not coming to a stop as much and because they transition into and out of shooting positions smoother. A lot can be said about getting into your next position ready to shoot and about starting to leave before you get done. On a simple medium/close target course that moves from box to box you should be about falling out of the box on your last shot and you need to be shooting as soon as your trailing foot starts moving into the new box. You also need to be constantly looking for that “sweet spot,” where once you are stopped you can transition quickly to as many targets as possible. The one thing that you still always have to remember is that speed should never be the goal that you focus on when shooting. Once you start shooting let what you see dictate your pace, not the pace that some other shooter is setting.

Nate, Great! I moved to Idaho this week so it will be nice to shoot with some people from just over the border. I will be shooting Production-M so I usually have to make up a different plan anyway. See you there! Alma Cole TY47309

Is any one else here on squad 1? I have no idea who I am shooting with.

Yeah I have seen this happen before when playing with glock triggers. That's just the type of thing that Dremels were inventer for. Hope it feels better now. I will just have to ban you from trying my gun again so you don't get anymore funny ideas. Keep in mind that I have spent the last 2 1/2 years chasing you at the club matches. I don’t see any reason that you should not have that “M” card yet except that you have been so busy with work. I feel that my shooting took its biggest step forward when I went to Nationals with you in 2003 and you taught me how to game out a stage. I still feel that you have a lot more natural ability and that you know more about gaming out a stage than I do. I will be running for the hills as soon as you get the groove back. Just don’t analyze everything so much. See you next weekend

We use them at my club here and they work really well. It is defiantly a lot different than using a popper because the mover gets activated the second you step on the pad. No waiting around and wondering if you should shoot another target while you wait. I often use just one activator arm. This will set off a swinger and MGM dropturner without any problems and you have half the reset time.

I would go with this option. I have owned the Ghost Rocket and it worked ok but I use this setup now. There was an article about doing this mod yourself with a setscrew. You can buy a new housing with a overtravel screw from: www.lonewolfdist.com Charlie Vanek sells one with an overtravel and a pretravel: www.vanekcustom.com

I haven't done anything to my Vanek except putting 20,000 rounds down range with it. Mine is closer to 2lb but I refuse to mess with it. Matt tried my trigger when I first got it and then again after about a year. I didn't notice any difference but he said it was much better now. If you are really unhappy with it send it back to Charlie and let him have another go at it. He really stands behind his work. I keep him on speed dial and I have had many chats with him about trigger maintenance and shooting in general. As far as what you can do on your own, I would not try to polish anything. A quick Dremel pass in the wrong place can ruin a great trigger bar. The best things to do are the things that Vanek already did to it. One thing that is Vanek approved is that you can cut a few coils off of the striker spring. Rich Redovian did this and his Vanek pulls at 1lb. This is something that I would only do if I were loading with Federal primers. I wish that I had practiced in the last two years but I have been so busy with being a fulltime student and working fulltime that I am lucky if I pickup my gun before match day. The only shooting that I have been doing is that I have been religiously attending three matches a month and an occasional .22 match. I figure that shooting a match is about the best practice you can get to be better at shooting matches. I have also been shooting my G34 in Production class almost exclusively for two years now. Every time I try shooting another gun with a race rig I just end up screwing everything up so I run home to my “happy place” that is Production division.

Alex, I still have not figured out why the introduction of a new division offends you so much. At this point it is going to happen so stop trying to cut it down before it even has a chance. If in three years it is a complete failure then you can come back and say what a dumb idea it is. As for me, I shoot a production division almost exclusively. That is one of those crazy no-good divisions where I can use the same Kydex that I use for concealed carry. Yes I could shoot my Glock in L10 and yes I could get some high caps and shoot it in Limited and be competitive but I don’t. I started with a simple gun and simple gear and I kept with that because I enjoyed shooting it so much. I don’t feel the need to run out and buy a STI Open gun to protect my ego from finishing in the lower half on the combined results. In my opinion, Production division is one of the best things to happen to USPSA in the last ten years. Now back to the single stack topic: We have a factory gun match coming up in a few weeks where we will only have L10, Production and revolver. My friend is the best single stack shooter in the state and I told him it would be a dumb idea to shoot his SS 1911 over his double stack because even though he is amazing with a SS he shoots his double faster. The only incentive to shoot a true 1911 SS in L10 is that you don’t have anything else. This new division gives me the excuse I always wanted to buy a SS 1911 and run it at a USPSA match. It should be a really natural transition for me because of shooting the production game with the production gear. You don’t have to like it; you don’t have to shoot it. It won’t hurt you, I promise… Just let us have some fun with this new division.

Personally, I don't see why a Sig P220 or your 4506 shouldn't be allowed to play in this division, eventually. Limiting it to 1911 initially allowed Gary to pull his rules from existing games out there, though, with little modification. Adding in other platforms means a little more complication in the rules - I'd highlight this, though, as a desirable change if the division were to be adopted long term.... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I agree with the idea that any non-polymer (my 10 round 9mm Glock mags are single stack) single stack gun should be ok to shoot this division. I don't see how anyone with a Ruger .45 single stack would have an advantage. However the wheels are already set in motion and I am for defining a division and sticking with it.

Can anyone answer this? I just want to say that I am really excited about the prospects of this division. I think that those of you out there who have to shoot Open or Limited so that you feel competitive on the overall final results just would not understand. Right now, I shoot production exclusively and I really enjoy it. I am looking forward to single stack division too. I have always wanted a SS 1911 but up to this point I would never buy one for L10 because I know that a 2011 would be the gun to have for L10. You will not be competitive with the limited or open class guns with only 8 rounds. If you can get over that fact I think you can have a lot of fun shooting a classic gun with simple gear. Thanks again for the hard work to “rock the boat” and make this happen!

Gary, Are bull barrels ok to use? And does IDPA allow bull barrels for the 9mm 1911s or is it bushing only?

My friend has been shooting the same $500 Kimber in L10 for the past three years. With this new division this gun would be as competetive as any other gun on the market, even the $3000 + ones.

Correct me if I am wrong but this seems like it will be a replacement for Limited 10 division. That makes a lot of sense because whenever my club has a L10 match everyone just shots his or her S_Is loaded with 10 rounds instead of 18. There seems to be no incentive to shoot a genuine SS 1911 even in L10 division. I love the 1911 but if I were to get a gun to be competitive in L10 right now it would be a 2011. This seems like a great idea and I applaud USPSA for taking steps in this direction. Long live the SS 1911! I like having a true tradeoff between minor and major by giving minor +2 rounds. This would make me more likely to buy a 9mm 1911. At the same time, allowing 10 rounds in a 9mm gun vs 8 in .45 is allowed at the Single Stack Classic. Very few people seemed to trade Major scoring in for Minor +2 rounds. http://www.1911society.org/overall05.txt

Isn't the smallest size the .05? I think the sizes are .05, .06, and .07 Oh my... I just got confused.

Thanks cking. I will get have to get one of these. Is the .05 the one to go with? Anyone have any problems with dot flare in the bright sun or anything when going for those far shots? Also, does anyone use the JP sight with a limited setup? Thanks all!

Hi all, While getting my butt kicked in a 3-gun match yesterday, it occurred to me that I am really having a hard time picking up my front sight and keeping while shooting. More than once I found myself trying to aim off of sight protectors rather than the front sight. I use Dawson sights on my pistol and I love them. I think that if I had a nice flashy high-vis style front sight on my AR it would help. Anyone tried these? There is the Firesight: http://www.williamsgunsight.com/image_70229.htm and the Sightlink: http://www.mountsplus.com/miva/merchant.mv.../CTGY/SIGHTLINK I am leaning toward the Sightlink because I am running a .05 and they have that size.

I have been thinking of going to Zeros from Angus at http://www.ghostholster.com He is offering them at $100 for 2,000 delivered That is about what I have been paying for the Barrys locally