dossauce

Lots of places! Where on the space coast are you? Melbourne area?

Props to Tim for making it happen! An answer to our woes

+1Sounds like bolt isn't fully cycling to the rear. Or you have a problem with the magazine. Not very likely though.

Hmmm interesting. I wonder... I had this happen a year ago. I called them, they told me it's never happened before, must be my fault. I had to explain to them exactly what happened because they didn't believe me and eventually they said "send it back, we'll take a look at it". I went ahead and sent it to them, they sent me an email apologizing and admitting something was wrong and they sent me a new trigger. They didn't tell me they were sending a new one but I noticed the new generation of triggers has milling work done on the side. My original trigger was blank like yours. It seems like they've solved the issue with the new triggers.

Why not just trade the whole gun? I don't know why you're just trading top ends? Stippling?I have a 35 that I shoot limited with and then I convert it to 9mm with a 40-9mm kkm barrel. Like other people have said remember to change the ejector. Get another ejector block housing and then you can to change calipers you just have to move the trigger to the new block.

Also are you using an adjustable gas block? I will tell you I use sub minimum load data for my 223 loads and it cycles fine in my rifle length and carbine.

Is it trying to feed the next round but not fully locking up the bolt? Is the carrier locking back even with a round in the magazine? Is bolt closing but not stripping the next round off the magazine? Explain more what's happening. Is the rifle a home build?

I have a full zev trigger (limited gun) and the full DK kit (production). Both have functioned 100% and the DK's pull is really light, Daniel does great work and he's a great guy that will make anything right and give you advice. If you'd like I can take a video of it. Send me a pm. The Tti sights are great btw, I don't have them but I've used them and the narrow rear sight helps drastically in getting more accurate alignment then my warren tacticals.

I found that the easiest way to find what's best for you is going to paper. Bring all the backstraps to the range. Start off with none, reach your finger in to the first joint. Shoot 5-6 rounds some quick follow up shots, notice any trends, shots slightly right, left or where? Then move your finger out more, towards the pad, shoot 5-6 again, same way. If you need to move your finger out more and more, repeat. Then once you've found where your finger needs to be try the different backstraps. Draw the pistol like you would in a match, no need to load the gun here, notice the location of your finger, repeat. Try with different backstraps until you find the one that gets you closest. Only you can find what's best for your body. I went to school for applied physiology and kinesiology (literally the study of the human body and movement) and it all comes down to each person individually, we will generalize things all day that work for the majority of people but every person is different. It's why physical therapy is so hands on. Btw I shoot a glock 35, gen 3 so I've had to focus on consistency during the draw to make sure my finger gets to the right place.

Yep, agreed. I think we sometimes take advantage of the classifieds but that's not what we're here for. We all want to be better shooters. I probably read here 100x more then I post.

I think that would be a pretty helpful feature although there's probably not too many people that buy and sell regularly, it's not really the point of the forums. However I would agree with earlier posts that you can tell a decent bit about a person by simply their involvement on the forums here. It's not a tell all but it's something

Totally get that miller. I think if you're an active participant in asking questions promptly it's a good sign you're interested, so long as the questions are relevant due to missed information. I don't think questions should stretch out beyond 3-4. Even at 4 replies I would get the sense you're just "kicking tires" as y'all put it

Haha, I wouldn't say I have that much conviction but I will make the effort even if it isn't convenient to me to get the item out.

Wow, out of all the years I've been on here and been through hundreds of transactions, I've only had that happen once, maybe twice. They said they wanted it and then never contacted me back so it's not exactly the same but close. For the most part, I've had better luck here than with other sites that I buy stuff from. The shooting community is pretty tight group with high standards and integrity in general. If you have someone in line and waiting, it's best to give the first potential buyer a timeline to work off of so expectations are known. In fact, most of the guys on here that I've dealt with before, I will ship stuff as their payment is on the way, even if they tell me they will pay when they get home. Several of the at-work networks block a lot of sites including payment sites sometimes so I understand that. As a buyer, however, I always try to get my payment in ASAP to show the seller I'm serious and build that trust. I agree, I hope all sellers will hold themselves to the same standards of integrity you seem to have. Communication is a skill many people overlook these days with how easy it is. I like the way you phrase it. I just wish the "tire kickers" of the world weren't so. I'm fine with both other types of buyers but I think the seller integrity is often influenced by the "tire kickers" because the seller will tell them "okay it's yours, send payment to XYZ" and then after getting all of the questions don't want to back out of the sale with the buyer.

A lot is relative. I've sold more things then my 84 year old grandmother but do I sell/buy once a month, no. I can see your point atlas in that as you gain experience in a place you can learn to trust and buy with less hesitation. I wouldn't say I'm at that point and I think I'd always question new sellers. My experience with firearms has been with people I know personally up to this point.

Wow I've certainly stirred the pot and missed a bit. I'll try and catch up best I can. I don't think what you call "chatting" is the same thing I am doing. I consider myself an informed buyer, someone who wants to know how many rounds have been put down the barrel, how old it is, how many owners, who's worked on it, ect. I'm not talking about buying a $100 part, I'm talking about a $1000+ gun. I would agree that much of this could be avoided by posting a quality ad with all of this information but unfortunately many people are just lazy. Part of it is I don't have an extra $2000 to take a risk on a gun as a young adult. Some people obviously do but does my value as a buyer change because of my fiscal limitations? I don't think it should. I agree and would say I fall more along these lines of how a seller should conduct business and someone I would want to buy from. That being said, do you have a 2011 you want to sell? My purpose for starting this topic was not to look for empathy from you all. Trust me, I don't need it, nor do I care for empathy at all. My reason for asking the question is to see how different sellers value buyers and how to "play the game." The way I value myself is different then others so by asking the question I can understand the majority's opinion. I understand everyone will have different opinions but the majority is the way in which I should expect people to handle business. That being said I still do not plan to change the way I "play the game." I agree, your experience has come with time and volume. I don't have the experience you have on this forum yet but I want to conduct myself with the same level of integrity people with 10,000+ posts do. Just because I am new I do not plan to contribute to the stereotype that "newbies" have of backing out of sales. I just feel that the buying frenzy on this forum leads to a lot of this happening because people don't take the time to ensure the person they are selling to is committed. I'll challenge you all with this example: If a buyer says "ill take it" then proceeds to ask questions after the fact. vs A buyer asks questions first then says "ill take it" Who do you think is more likely to buy? Also do you bother to answer the buyer in the first situation or move on to the next buyer? I hope you all know I am not perturbed or upset by anything anyone has said. I may not agree with you, but I will listen to your opinions, you're allowed to have them, God Bless America.

So I'm still fairly new and have used the classifieds here a few times but recently I've been having a lot of issues when trying to close the deal on things. Here's whats happening: I find something I like and interested in buying, I post on the topic "pm sent", I send the seller a PM telling him I am interested in purchasing what he/she has for sale, I usually ask for more info, history, additional pictures sometimes. Then after hearing back I usually say either "thanks for your time but no thanks" or I will say, "I am interested" and then ask about payment and location. We usually go back and forth a few times and working out details, finding out answers. Then all of a sudden, bam, the seller tells me it's sold. Is it just me or if I go through multiple conversations with you (before anyone else has sent a pm) I should be first in line to buy it? Is there something I need to say in a message to claim the item as mine. I just don't get it. It seems to me other people are just willing to say "I'll take it" and boom the deal is done with no regards to who else the seller had been talking to before. Is it wrong for me to ask questions about how long they've owned the item, how many owners before them, ect. Should I just say "I'll take it" and then ask all these questions? I don't know, to me it just seems wrong to short someone like that when all they are trying to do is learn more about what they are looking to buy. Why not say to the person who said "I'll take it" Okay, thanks for your interest. I have someone who has messaged me about it already and want to give them the chance since they replied first but I will reach out to you after them. I've bought and sold enough things through private sale to know buyers back out all the time but why not at least give the person who asked about it first the right to it.

Did you recently disassemble it? It sounds like you may be missing the small plastic spacer which is the first piece that goes on when reassembling. It should be plastic spacer, spring, push rod, metal spacer, barrel, hand guard, then extension tube in that order.

Also if you didn't know Ergo makes an extra large palm swell, I use it on my 3-gun rifle and its great for getting perfect finger placement for longer shots

My roommate took a class with Mike Seeklander. He's a great guy and I would highly recommend taking his class if he is ever in your area. He talked about what he calls stage markers and stage points or stop markers. Essentially when doing your walkthrough you don't just plan to go to one location, you know specifically where you plan to aim the gun and where your foot will drive to. Then you can apply the entry and exit techniques Shannon and Max were talking about. I've found that this bit of info has drastically affected my consistency in shooting a stage. If I can lock into my plan exactly where my foot will go I can apply the entry and exit techniques with the highest efficiency. http://blog.shooting-performance.com/competition-stage-breakdown/

I use the newer style timney single stage. It more flat then the previous generation which was more mil spec style. I would say I like the flatter face but the timney is a good balance of flat and curved. I also was very impressed with the Hyperfire 24c. straight blade trigger with a shoe you can use or not if you so choose.

I use the hornady custom dies for 40, I like them better then the rcbs's I have. I only shoot a glock so I can't speak for how it resizes for SVI. I 2nd whoever mentioned bayou bullets. I've been running them in my glock aftermarket barrel and even the factory barrel with great results.

Mine does this as well. I ended up drilling through the plate completely and tapping the plate. I had to buy longer set screws but they were easy to find at lowes

Rifle rated or just pistol? You can get away with a heck of a lot cheaper steel for just pistol.

Heck why not just use both haha