mattx

I use 3.1 @ 1.14 with the 147gr extremes out of a 34. I did a pretty comprehensive search on here and this is what most were using.

Caffeine is a performance enhancing drug in WADA tested events. There's an upper limit on how much they are allowed to detect before it becomes performance enhancing. Nicotine might be the same way.

Sounds a bit overdramatic to me, was only looking to see if the caffeine made your hands shake enough to affect accuracy. Overdramatic is right. I still laughed at them.

Shoot the gun you like shooting. I'd really be surprised if you find you are a better shooter with a gun you don't really enjoy shooting.

I drink the sugar free energy drinks all the time and enjoy the effects. I have a couple buddies who have tried them, freaked out, and shared with me their experiences. One guy started yelling at his coworkers and the other one pretty much sat there begging for the experience to be over.

Nice work!

I like Danner boots. Www.hitthe breakroom.com is the outlet where they post seconds and overruns.

I shoot mainly Glocks and my EDC is the Shield. I tried a lot of the little 9s and stuck with this one. Hopefully Glock releases their 9mm single stack at SHOT this year.

I use one and I almost consider it a must if you start playing around with lighter striker springs.

I've been playing with it in dry fire. Draw to point shoot is around 1.4 sec. Moving distance back to fuzzy focus with a sight correction is close to 1.7. Then draw to point then adjusting and finding hard focus on the front sight is around to 2 sec at as far back as I can go on quarter scale targets. That's after warmup and about as fast as I can currently go. I think more importantly, I'm learning what type of sight picture is necessary before breaking the trigger, while still trying to move faster. Thanks for the replies.

Drawing to hard front sight focus is slower for me. What I'm trying to get at is there any rule of thumb i.e. a distance where where can get away with a "mixed focus" for better transition times? Should I work on drawing to 100% hard sight focus to get it set in for now, then worry about getting more complicated later?

This is what I've been drilling lately. I've noticed a correlation between hit factor and harder focus on front sight for most 7+ yard distances. For the closer targets I can get away with a "soft" sight picture with about half front sight/half target focus but when the distances start to increase, I need to focus harder on the front sight to hit the A-zone consistently. This is a newer revelation to me and I'd appreciate any insight from more experienced shooters on the topic.

I'm a production shooter w/ a 34. I recently changed from elbows locked to bent and I'm still letting it sink in. A lot of it was motivated by elbow pain (I compete in powerlifting too) and between dry fire, lifting, and loading mags, my left elbow was starting to give me fits. I picked it up in a match and watched a good shooter do it, then I mimicked him on the last stage, a classifier which I was able to barely squeak a division win on and I will take that any day. I'm still trying to work it in dry fire, but I'm faster with it and haven't noticed any less of an ability to control recoil with a light 9mm load.

Salient / VTAC has one on the market that might be what you are looking for.

Without a timer I'd say you're missing out on a lot of key components of dry fire. You need to have a basis of what you can do (and in what amount of time) in dry fire so that you can translate that into live fire. If I could do it over again I'd buy a Shot Maxx but a typical Shot Pro is fine. If you don't want to invest any money just yet there are a few apps you can download for free. The main thing you're looking for are random start times and par times Thanks for the recommendations. I'm going to pick one up. I'm improving, but I think I need to start working on baseline performance goals versus just trying to hit the g a s p e d a l not *thumb rest [generic]*.

I have this problem as well. The semi-scary thing is, that the sights will be on target but my head isn't in the right place to see them. I've been running a narrower rear sight with a Dawson extra-narrow front. In another 6 months to a year, I may try one of the wider rear notches again to see if it bothers me as much as it did when I was starting.

My match results increased dramatically from starting dry firing and rapidly. I haven't even gotten all that complicated with it yet, and just have 3 of the mini IPSC targets taped to the wall. The thing I have noticed so far, is if I get a good firing grip on the gun, I can work the trigger fast and not disturb the front sight. Drilling just this fundamental has a had a big carryover, as it was one of the things that went to the trash bin as soon as I was on the timer in match. How useful is getting a shot timer for dry fire practice? I'm thinking it's about time I picked one up.

I'm curious too. I have a 8lb keg and was going to use it for for 40 minor, but picked up a Glock 34 to shoot 9. I ended up just using the tried and true titegroup loads instead of messing with the clays.

I was in your shoes about a year ago. I started with two mag pouches and the rest stuffed in my pockets. Start dry firing and you will start to learn a lot about grip and how hard you can slap on the trigger without disturbing sight picture. You'll figure out pretty quick that if you want to score better, that you need to be fast, and start working around the edges of your comfort zone. At least that's what I've been working on lately.

I'm stocked for the moment, but still don't like the situation of not being able to get it when I need it. I don't see the situation changing anytime soon though, so I'm learning to deal.

I don't want to start a long discussion, but from what I've picked up, the general rule of thumb is that more powder = more gas volume. Looking at the Quickload software for example, there are at least 8 figures of merit used to parametrize the powder (top right) Is anybody a powder nerd or a chemist that could point me to a reference that explains the gas volume and rate at which it is produced?

$150

I met a gentleman who was selling a nice stash of powder on behalf of his aging father. I picked up a sealed keg of Clays and he had an old metal keg of Winchester 231. The seal appeared to be a bit damaged and it the container appeared to be of an old manufacturer date. It still smelled like powder, but I was hesitant to buy it. Even if it was unsealed at one time, I'm thinking it sat with the cap on tight with whatever air was able to get in at the time. I'm pretty set on powder for the time being, but I'd hate for this to go to waste, when someone in need could be shooting it. Any consensus on if this should be purchased?

Due to vacation and other things, I missed my usually scheduled USPSA matches the past couple months and was shooting 1-2 informal steel matches per week. I thought the steel shoots would help with USPSA accuracy and they did, but I did not learn as much recoil management/trackings sights for the USPSA two rounds per target. I did get better at calling my shots and transitioning between targets which is helping on some of the blaster stages, but probably at the cost of good second sight picture/trigger pull. To illustrate, I was owned by an el presidente type classifier shot at about 40ft. I did shoot it cold, with a new gun but still a glock, and new sights, but next time I do steel practice shoots, I'm going to mix in multiple rounds per target before transitioning.

While I'm on the topic, anybody know what kind of sights bullseye shooters usually use?