mattx

I just picked up a Glock 22 LEO trade in for cheap and am trying to figure out sights. I have 2 more glocks in 40: a 23 and a 35. The 23 has the TFOs w/ a .150 rear notch and .145 front width. The 35 has Warren/Sevigny carry sights with the .150 rear and .125 front width. I have another front sight for it that is .115 and the wider rear with the narrower front is hard for me to shoot accurately, so I swapped it out. I looked at options online, specifically the Dawson's, I see that they have options with narrow rear notches i.e. .135-.125, and even narrower fronts, .105. I'm half ready just to pick up a set to see how I personally like it, but I figure I'd ask first: Is there is any benefit to the narrower combination?

I've never liked the kryptek patterns but this changes my mind. Nice work!

After buying my Dillon, I ended up shooting two or three times more rounds per month than what I was shooting before. It's been glorious.

I'm fighting this battle currently. I have a 23 that I frankly love and can shoot well then a 35 which is causing me fits. I've been shooting weekly informal steel matches to practice and try to get used to the 35 which I bought specifically for USPSA. I switched to the 23 this week for a steel match and frankly killed it compared to my previous performances. I've played around with all the back straps, a couple front sight widths, and everytime I think I'm starting to figure it out, it all goes to crap. I'm going to play with the larger backstrap for a bit as I've learned to like the hump on the 23. It really forces me to apply purely vertical force with the strong side from two fingers straight back into palm and then use my support sight hand to control recoil. If that does't work, I might end up putting a lonewolf 22 slide on a 23 frame. I'd hate to have to go that route, but if it works, it works.

Picked up the midway one although the other one's are nice. Thanks.

Looking for one of these if you know what I mean. Just a padded pouch to hold a gun w/ some soft loops to hold some mags. Anybody know where I can find these or what they are typically called?

I was carrying a Glock 23 and shooting a Glock 35 in competition, but I picked up the 35 specifically to try my hand at USPSA. Now, I mostly carry a S&W Shield and if I shoot it a lot, I end up shooting my Glocks high.

I had one on a Glock 23. It was the model w/ the activator in front under the trigger guard. I sold it to buy some other stuff, but it was solid and I was in no way concerned with its durability.

I have the gempro 250. It's been stable +/- .02 gr since I got it. Occasionally it will go nuts but taring it brings it right back to normal.

I was just able to get a 4lb jug in trade a deal for some Hornady steel 55gr training ammo. I feel like I hit the lottery. Almost didn't happen until I got chatty, told the gentleman what I was looking for, and he was like oh whaddya know, I have a 4 lb jug.

Sure you were using Bullseye or does switching to lead make that much of a difference? I also figured loading them long would lower pressure a bit and subsequently velocity? The Alliant published load was 5.8 and my minor load was at 4.7 with no signs of wear and relatively weak ejection compared to factory ammo. I need to buy a chrono to figure out where I'm at on velocity or else this is all just a crapshoot anyway.

Nice. I was planning on trying the same color on an FDE frame and doing the magwell too. I went with a 35 too. I started shooting with Glock compact and hated the grip hump and was thinking about trying out an M&P for a bit, but found one for a deal and picked it up. Now, I want to figure out a way to add the grip hump to the 35.

I've shot a fair amount of Freedom Munitions in 9 and 40. The 9 was fine but there were a couple of boxes of 40 with poor crimp and scary setback when feeding but no kaboom. Overall I was happy with the ammo but IMO its worth checking a few rounds from each box for this problem. Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

I just put a 13lb spring on a captured Jager polymer rod in a 35 with no problems. I have the same spring in a used and abused 23 on a stainless guide rod that is a bit sloppy front to back. I ended up putting in a lightened striker to minimize the slop. It still locks up in battery but there is maybe .02" of wiggle when I hold it vertical and work the trigger. Stock barrels in both. 35 barrel is tight in slide. 23 barrel is sloppy in slide. I wish I could help more.

Exactly what I what I was looking for. Another gentleman on here mentioned that bullseye wouldn't make major. If have a ton of Bullseye and nothing else. I'd like to be shooting limited 10 but safely. If BE can do it, even sub-optimally it could hold me over. Thanks for the reply. Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

Tried this before with the stock recoil spring in a Gen 4 Glock 35. Shot fine but the slide wouldn't lock back on empty, with my attempt at reduced charges. Switched to an ISMI 13lb spring with a Jager polymer guide rod and ended up with this: 4.7 gr Bullseye 165gr Plated (Don't know manufacturer) 1.130" OAL CCI #500 I worked done from 5 gr in 2 gr increments to 4.2 gr and let used the lock back on empty as my metric. This is still a compromise for me but I'm limited with powder selection as many others may be, but it should get me through the Summer months shooting production. I'll chrono it at some point. I think I'd still be better off shooting 9mm in production, but at least I'm in the game. The Alliant site only lists one .40 load for Bullseye which is 5.8 gr for a 165gr JHP. No minimum and max and no mention of test barrel length, which is kinda shoddy for a powder manufacturer. Somebody said you couldn't make major with this powder, but I think it's in the realm of possibility going by Alliant's data. I'm not going to push it. Anybody know the temperature sensitivity of Bullseye?

I've done this. It's mild as long as you are right against the slide and don't let the barrel unlock. If your hand is behind it after it unlocks and starts to cycle, it will probably leave a mark. Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

I have a 550 set up in my study. I got lucky and picked up a nice spare desk at a garage sale for $5, drilled some holes, and its good to go. When I'm done I undo it and set it in the closest. Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

For the record, the RO pointed out that the safety issue may have occurred, he just didn't have a view of it so he couldn't DQ me. Either way, that is one I don't think I would have learned except by shooting a match and it wasn't covered in the safety brief.

Still finishing dead last but I'm improving. Learned two very important lessons: 1) I need to watch reloads moving right to left as a right handed shooter. I probably should've been DQ'ed, but RO wasn't able to see it. Luckily, I didn't muzzle anyone and this is one I won't soon forget. 2) Bring a snack for long Sunday matches. I was fine all morning, trying to just stay calm and get my hits, then the last stage rolled around and I was hungry and blood sugar was low and I was not there mentally at all. It coincided with the above incident and my first net 0 point run. Otherwise, I'm learning and I think it will be a long road until I'm even half competent, but I'm having fun. Next up is some small equipment mods, i.e. grip tape and maybe experimenting with a wider front sight.

Thanks for info especially on striker spring. That will save me an extra order no doubt. Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

I'm fairly new to this still but I've been shooting a hotter loading of 40 in production and it isn't helping me when it comes time to score, and I need all the help I can get. I haven't chrono'd it, but I'm pretty sure it will make major based on manufacturer data. Either way, I need to load more anyway, so I have an excuse to experiment with some minor loads. I have a stock of components, 165 gr jacketed bullets, which I realize now is not the way to go to be down near the lower PF bound. From doing the math on the data in my reloading manual, it seems heavy and slow is the way to go. I think my gun will function with the minimum published load and stock spring, so I will be loading below the the starting load in my manual. Is there an equation or some sort that will tell me what weight recoil spring I need? I was reading that a 14 lb spring would be the ticket for light 40 loads. I am aiming for 165 gr at just under 900 fps for ~145 PF, based on some data I found online. Looking online, if I want a lighter weight spring, I will have to settle for a single spring setup instead of the dual Gen4 springs. Has anybody had any reliability errors with these springs? Does anybody make a dual spring setup with a lighter spring? Thanks for reading and I appreciate any insight.

Thanks for the welcome guys. The Bullseye will have to do for now as it's really the only powder I've been able to find. I'll worry about making major after I figure out how to hit the targets.

I went to my first IDPA match last December in freezing weather, waited a long Winter, and have been shooting practice USPSA matches once a month at a local club for 3 weeks now. Next week there's an IDPA classifier, so I'm going to get a number and go shoot it. I shoot production with a Glock 35. I sometimes use a Glock 23 for IDPA. Here to soak up some information and first thing is try to figure out some load data for the components I was able to scrounge together. I have an 8lb jug of bullseye and 2000 165gr 40 S&W that I'm going to make do with around with until powder is available again. I picked up a Dillon 550 from Brian and figured this was the place to be for match shooting info.