AdvocatusDiaboli

Briley, but their barrels are 1:16.

I bought 3000 147 plated bullets from them. I haven't been able to get them to group at all (8-10" groups at 10 yards). I've switched to coated lead and I'm much happier. I'll never buy plated again.

Keep us posted on how it turns out and what the fix was/is.

I loaded 147 blue bullets over 3.2 grains of titegroup. OAL 1.140. Diameter .378 provided the best groups out of my G34. Soft shooting and very little smoke.

My G34 was most accurate with an OAL of 1.165-1.170 when using Xtreme 147 bullets. ***I used a different powder than you are using.

www.hodgonreloading.com/data/pistol

I'm another who is seriously considering shooting Revolver division since the rule change. The 929 looks awesome. I want one.

No excessive smoking? Can I ask what gun you are shooting through. Any issues in a Glock barrel if that's what you shoot? Thanks. I'm using Titegroup with Blue Bullets (similar to Bayou & SNS) in a Glock 34. Very, very little smoke (almost nil). My load is 3.2 grains, OAL 1.145", Diameter .378, Speer brass, Rem primer, getting an average of 943 fps with a 147 grain bullet. Velocity spread is 21 fps. I've had no issues whatsoever using coated bullets in a Glock, thus far. NOTE*** I've only put 250 of these through my Glock. I plan to shoot more when they arrive. I've tried using less powder in my Glock, both with coated bullets and plated bullets, but my gun just doesn't seem to be as accurate when I go below 3.2 grains of titegroup.

You may not be aware of it but there is a set price for Blue Label Glocks and GT sells them for that price as most true Blue Label Dealers do. They should be charging these prices. Most c models have been discontinued.Glock model 17, 19, 22,23,26,27,31,32,33 $398.20 + Tax Glock model 17C, 19C, 22C, 23C, 31C, 32C $422.40 + Tax Glock model 20, 21, 21SF, 29, 30, 30SF, 36 $464.20 + Tax Glock model 20C, 21C $508.20 + Tax Glock model 34, 35 $480.70, + Tax Glock model 37, 38, 39 $414.70 + Tax If retail stores were required to sell at those prices, they would be selling at a loss. Most Blue Label Dealers also sell non Blue Label Pistols and they cost more. I'll second that. Scottsdale Gun Club sells blue label to those who qualify for the price you listed. They also sell white label Glocks to those that don't qualify for blue label at regular retail prices.

Do you have a lightened striker? If not, I highly recommend it. That will drastically reduce your light strikes.

I'm talking about the striker/firing pin spring at 4#s.

1st rule of SF is to always look cool. He broke the 1st rule.

Yes, I have an email sent to accuracy speaks. Waiting to hear back from him.

I've had 2 light strikes in about 3000 shots with Remington primers. I keep thinking about putting in the 4.5# spring instead of the 4# spring in there now. But, the light strikes just haven't been that prevalent.

I've got a lot of similarities to your 1st build. I'm also running a Vanek Classic and really like it. I went with a ZEV firing pin because I couldn't get a Jager. Keep me posted with your assessment of the Zev trigger system.

Mesa.

FINALLY! It seems the crimp was the issue with the terrible groupings. I've settled in at .378 and I've been getting excellent groups, better than factory loads actually. I've settled on: 147 X-treme 1.165-1.170 OAL .378 Diameter 3.2 grains Titegroup. Power factor is 136 Velocity spread 22 fps. I also tried Blue Bullets 147 gr. flat points 1.145 OAL .378 Diameter 3.2 grains Titegroup PF 140 Velocity spread 21 fps.

I just did some testing today with my Gen4 G34 and 147 gr. Blue Bullets (flat point) with great success (stock barrel). 1.145 OAL 3.2 grains Titegroup .378 diameter at the rim Chrono results: High was 964; Low was 943; Average was 954; spread was 21 ft. per sec. Power Factor 140. For some reason, when I go to 3.1 grains Titegroup or below (regardless of what bullet I'm using), groups start to open up and the velocity spread increases as well. Edit: Very, very little smoke, virtually unnoticeable. In fact, I had to shoot a couple rounds into the berm just so I could see if there was smoke.

I need to have a barrel fitted in a Glock. Can anyone recommend a gunsmith in Arizona for the job?

I loaded the mags with 10 rounds for the test groups. There were no issues. These are plated bullets. Are factory rounds with a diameter of .375 using plated bullets or jacketed? My bullet diameter is .355. The brass thickness is .012 x 2 = .024. Thus total diameter should be .379. Any tighter and I will be scuffing the bullet plating. Do you recommend that?

I'm getting a power factor in the 139 range with 147s and 3.2 grains Titegroup.

I may be on to something here. 3.2 grains Titegroup 1.170 OAL .379 diameter. All shots 15 yards, 10 shot groups. 1st group (from L to R) chrono results High 974 Low 925 Average 948 2nd group chrono results High 976 Low 929 Avg 953 I did notice that all test loads seemed to tighten up significantly when I changed the diameter from .381 to .379.

Thousand or even hundreds of rounds for load development seems excessive, but I am going through the same thing right now with 9mm in my G34.When I developed loads for my rifles, I don't ever recall needing more than 150 rounds to develop a sub moa load. And that is for 7mm-08, 300 win, 30-378, & 204. I figure for those rifles you are pretty much looking for accuracy and fitting the chamber. With a USPSA load you need good to great accuracy, 100% RELIABILTY, Power factor, and the gun has to handle as well as possible in order to get hits fast. That can take a lot of time, effort and components.Actually, 150 rounds to find sub moa for a bolt gun seems borderline excessive. Do you have experience reloading rifle rounds? Have you found it to be easier than loading for pistol cartridges? Common sense tells me that because rifle rounds are operating at higher pressures and much higher velocities, that small adjustments would have bigger affects to bullet flight down range.At this point, I'd settle for "simple" accuracy out of my 9mm loads. No I don't reload rifle. But I'm guessing those are bolt guns you are loading those rounds for? Without a doubt there is much more pressure involved in a rifle round but you are most likely more worried about accuracy in your 08 than you are if it will function properly at combat speed in USPSA. If you are happy with "simple" accuracy out of your 9mm then that is a different thing altogether as opposed for developing a competition load. At least it should be? One thing is for sure, too each his own and YMMV for sure! All bolt guns indeed, except for the Daniel Defense .223. My goals with a rifle is to have the fastest accurate load possible. Helps with the longer shots. OAL is huge for all my rifles except for the Weatherby, due to its free bore. Some rifle/bullet combos need more/less space between the bullet & the rifling. This is where the different bullet ogive can give a reloader hell. Anyhow, happy reloading. As for me, I'm reading more and more about others struggling with the same type of handgun bullet as I am. It's become a real PITA.

I hope this will solve my accuracy issues.

Thousand or even hundreds of rounds for load development seems excessive, but I am going through the same thing right now with 9mm in my G34.When I developed loads for my rifles, I don't ever recall needing more than 150 rounds to develop a sub moa load. And that is for 7mm-08, 300 win, 30-378, & 204. I figure for those rifles you are pretty much looking for accuracy and fitting the chamber. With a USPSA load you need good to great accuracy, 100% RELIABILTY, Power factor, and the gun has to handle as well as possible in order to get hits fast. That can take a lot of time, effort and components.Actually, 150 rounds to find sub moa for a bolt gun seems borderline excessive. Do you have experience reloading rifle rounds? Have you found it to be easier than loading for pistol cartridges? Common sense tells me that because rifle rounds are operating at higher pressures and much higher velocities, that small adjustments would have bigger affects to bullet flight down range. At this point, I'd settle for "simple" accuracy out of my 9mm loads.