OdinIII

There was definitely more fouling in the channel than I expected. I found only black powder and no hard pieces but it took 6 or 7 q-tips before they came out clean. The spring end was not at a split in the cups and I saw no evidence of the striker hitting the striker block. I do not have adjustable over travel so I guess that is good. I wish this was easier to test. I’m not sure I can make it to the range before the next match.

Thanks to all for the tips. I was fully expecting the answer to be the primers so I haven’t pulled out the striker yet. Would it be obvious if fouling in the striker channel is the issue or will a tiny amount of crud cause issues? Keep in mind that I did clean it spotless with a q-tip and inspected with a light less than 1,000 rounds ago when I installed the spring. I’ve probably been spoiled by running stock Glocks and getting away with ignoring maintenance. The gun is box stock with lightened safety plunger spring, striker spring, recoil spring and guide rod. I followed an online tutorial and polished the trigger parts. I have no overtravel adjustment but did polish the plunger button. I’ll take it apart tonight and report back.

I haven't been plunk testing the rounds but the failed round I recovered from the range plunks fine in my barrel. I'm assuming that eliminates out of battery issues due to the rounds. The trigger bar is stock. I replaced the firing pin safety and striker spring and polished the internals like I've done my other pistols.

I forgot to mention that I found one of the failed rounds and there was a slight crease from seating. From my research that is a good thing.

I'm running a 4.5 lb. striker spring with a factory striker and had 3 light strikes at a recent match. I think the gun has about 700-1000 through it with the lighter spring. I'm new to this game and want to nip this in the bud. I really like the trigger now but I like a reliable pistol much more. What is the recommended frequency for striker spring replacement? Also, I'm using CCI primers because I ran out of Winchesters. Will Winchester primers fix this issue or is something else going on? I can only find the Federal mag and match primers in stock. Should I try these or just buy the easily available Winchesters?

I run the +0’s. The are supposed to be production legal but I’ve never tried to put it in the box.

Balakay’s data looks exactly like I would expect from the GM’s that I’ve seen shoot at local matches. There is no penalty for failures in the hero or zero scenario so they go for it. Unfortunately, it seems our new new standards are based off of “burn it down” runs.

Exactly right! If I understand correctly from previous post then the new hit factors are all hero or zero runs by the best shooters in the country. Surely this wasn’t the intent of our leadership?

I don’t know. Sadly I think this is just another in a long line of decisions that are made with good intentions but poorly executed. I don’t understand the logic of using the very best scores. I thought the classification system should tell you where you rank among other shooters. To me this means what they can reasonably do consistently on a given stage, not how high they can score when the stars align with a “burn it down” hero or zero attitude. I would love to look through the data, maybe there isn’t as large a gap as I suspect between what I would call typical stage performance and classifier performance.

Maybe I’m just a stickler for rules to be very clear with no opportunity for misinterpretation. I can’t see where the current rules say you can use a plastic or brass flush plug so if the ruling is null and void then how are we supposed to know that we can use a plug of any kind? I’m just trying to play by the rules.

It’s a ruling by the NROI https://uspsa.org/nroi/rulings Look for appendix D4 #22 Maybe it carries no weight now with the new rules, I honestly don’t know but it is still on the site. The way I understand the production rules are if it doesn’t say you can do it then you can’t. I wanted to do the same thing as mentioned above to add weight to my G34 but just couldn’t figure out a way that I could defend the slug if challenged.

Not trying to argue but the ruling is clear. Plastic plugs weighing less than .5 ounces are allowed. Since anything not specifically allowed is illegal then anything not plastic and adding significant weight is illegal unless the ruling doesn’t apply after the rule changes. I’m sure you won’t get caught but I don’t see how the Seattle Plug can be legal under the current rules.

I think the ruling specifically banning the Seattle Slug still stands.

The only right thing to do is use 10mm brass. Buy some once fired online or at a local range. Buy 1K and shoot minimum loads and you’ll be set for a very long time. You’ll need new 10mm brass for max loads.

I know nothing of Open pistol optics but I did figure out a problem with a .22 rifle I had years ago. The scope had a 200 yard parallax adjustment and I couldn’t duplicate results from day to day. It would group but not in the same spot. I had about 3” of parallax at 40 yards IIRC. Is it possible that parallax is your problem?

One thing is for sure with a new pistol is that you probably won’t have the same issues you had with the old one. You’ll have issues, but different ones. Listen to Memphis, the pistol is almost irrelevant for 99% of USPSA shooters. You can do very well with whatever you have.

You shouldn’t be practicing dry fire and using the DA for every pull. That will hurt your shooting. You only get a realistic pull for the first shot with both the Glock and Tanfo. You have to improvise for the rest.

Just a little. I just bought a Loadmaster and I’m happy so far but I’m sure the Dillon is a higher quality machine. I hope to own one at some point so I can make an educated comparison.

Maybe they will replace it. You may be better off selling it unless they offer free return shipping this time. I wouldn’t worry about selling it with a full disclosure, someone will buy it. With it’s history, I’d be like you and want a completely fresh start.

Sell it here and buy a Lee? Not everything in life goes the way we want it to.

Pay attention to this. I like Dawson adjustable rears but would not want it hanging off more than they do already on non-MOS models. It sounds like I would go fixed for an MOS and just use his warranty if needed to get the correct front sight height for your average load.

An email to RHT would be a good idea. He probably has worked through this before and knows what to do.

Most people use TightGroup but I started with Unique and have been happy so far in my Trojan. The following is my G34 Production load and works fine in the STI. 147 Zero FMJ range brass 3.9 gr Unique CCI or Winchester 1.14” Makes about 138-140 pf in the Trojan

You’ll only be happy loading that volume on a single stage if you have gobs of spare time and nothing better to do. You need to be able to load faster and use the leftover time for dry fire practice. I’m in the same boat. Started loading precision rifle on a single stage. Bought a Lee turret and started shooting 2 USUSA production matches a month. I’ve already found out that even though I’m happy with the turret press and have no issue with it’s function, it takes way too much time to crank out the minimum of 400-500 rounds a month to compete. With that said, you can get by with a turret press and I probably won’t upgrade for a long time because I feel more likely to catch a quality issue with the turret since there is only one action happening at a time. Now that I’m loading range brass, there seems to be more issues to handle than before. YMMV but I just don’t think you’ll be happy loading in a single stage.

+3 for the autodrum Everything got better when I switched.