Flyin40

No problem. I found those short sessions are the best. Dogs learn very quickly. The biggest thing I found is that a dog has alot of energy in the beginning and you have its full 100% attention and it is very eager to please. Don't forget to reward. Just remember what your teaching your dog now stays with him for the rest of his life. One thing I recommend is making Sit equal sit and stay instead of two separate commands. That way when you tell your dog to sit he will stay there until told to get up. That comes in very handy. One way to teach this is to start with sit and then walk way. Not far but just far enough that he doesn't get up. Come back and reward him. Over a couple of weeks extend the distance that you go, it can be out to 100yds if you want. Once he has it down then start going out of sight where he can't see you. Don't stay out of sight very long in the beginning. Just work up to longer and longer time away out of sight. Flyin I quoted one of my other replies. Sounds like you didn't work on Obedience to much. You have to drill that stuff in for months. First issue Your dog is on a leash and see's another dog or a dog comes close. Its hard for a dog, especially a very young dog to control himself around other dogs. They are social animals and the natural thing for them to check out other dogs. Best way to deal with it is after your dog is taught the basics commands is find someone who is willing to work with you and has a dog. Have your dog sit on leash. Take the crate outside. Have a friend introduce a dog about 50yds from you. If your dog gets up to move toward the other dog say no and crate him immediately. Leave him in about 15mins. Bring him out and repeat. Another option is have the other dog introduced at 50yds. If the dog breaks and gets up say no and re-heel your dog. Have the other dog walk out and then leave. At first even if you can get your dog to sit for 1min watching the other dog at 50yds without moving reward him with a dog biscuit(I buy the cheap ones and break each biscuit in 4 or 5 pieces to make sure it doesn't upset the dogs stomach). After the dog has this down then move the other dog closer, maybe 40yds. Continue doing this until your dog sits while the other dog is within 10ft or so. If you want an actual time table so you can understand what is involved here it is. Week 1 50yrds Week 2 40yds Week 3 30yds Week 4 20yds Week 5 10yds Week 6&7 5yds Do this 3 to 4 times a week for about 15mins. You can adjust the time table based on your dog. You might be able to bring your dog out after 1 week of 50yds and drop all the way to 30yds. Just don't move up to fast. Once the other dog starts to get close it will be harder for your dog to sit. My current dog is a beast and his drive is unbelievable. I use a Tritronics collar and he can fight through the collar when it is turned up to its highest settings and not stop. I didn't get him until he was 18months and he had some major bad habits. I had to go as far as buying a larger collar and putting the shock collar on him around his waist with the shock part on the top of rear end. As soon as he got up I would nick him which was a quick non-continious pulse. He sat straight down. The dogs instinct will be to go the opposite way of the shock which is to sit. I only had to do this a few times then went back to working with rewards. All this stuff will help but........your dog must know and understand the basic commands. Basic commands that will stay with your dog the rest of his life takes 6months of work for someone new and may take the dogs 1st yr to train him. Also remember that obedience can save your dogs life. If your dog gets off the leash and runs towards the road you want your dog to stop and come back if you call him. If he doesn't that can mean that he might get hit by a car. I have stopped my dog several time from being hit by a car. The closest one was when he was chasing a pheasant and it ran across the road. He seen it and started after it and it started flying. Luckily my dog listened. A truck flew by right after and he would of been toast. Just remember the collar is used to reinforce what the dog already has been taught. Teach the dog what you want him to learn. Once he has learned it then the collar can be used because the knows what he is supposed to do but wants to be stubborn. Don't use the collar as a way to teach a dog how to do something, use it as a reinforcement. Hope this helps Flyin

Yes, I had this exact thing happen. I used tape because both of my eyes were fighting over which one was going to take over. After dryfiring for about 4 months I went back to the doctor for my yearly perscription. My precription went from -1.50 to -.75 in one yr. My precription was cut in half. The only difference was the tape. I spoke with the doctor and explained what I was doing and asked if using the tape on one eye helped. He said yes, it made the other eye work harder. I go back pretty soon and haven't been dryfiring at all or even shooting. I'm interested in the results. To answer your second question. My eyes fought and I couldn't get a focus at all. I used tape for probably 4yrs. I dryfired 5-6 days a week for 1hr a day for about 4months(this wsa right before my eye exam) and after that 4months I tried shooting without the tape and I was good. I was able to make one eye more dominant that the other. I haven't used tape since. I picked the gun up the other day and immediately noticed my eyes wanting to fight one another. I haven't practiced and have only shot 2 matches this yr and it seems my eyes are starting to go back from lack of practice and shooting. Flyin

comp It will take a metal barrel with threads to work. Something like this barrel Flyin

Nice job handling it. Been there done that. I counted up 24 DQ's at both nationals combined. 749 comp, 3% Dq'ed??? edited add at 2 more Dq's Flyin

I actually practice keeping my thumb from touching the frame at all when I dryfire or live fire. The result ends up being that during a match my thumb just lightly rides the frame but doesn't put pressure on it. Never tried a thumb rest or *thumb rest [generic]* and probably never will unless I come across a lefty who already has their frame drilled for it. Just something I'm not willing to "try out" on my frame. Flyin

Is he paying for everything?? FLyin

It might be stressful but its a good thing. Better now than at the Nationals Flyin

I just realized that anyone can access the classifieds section. Will this stay this way?? I thought on the previous uspsa website required a login to access the classifieds, unless I'm remembering wrong. Just curious. I know that I got used to never worrying about dealing with anyone on the classifieds. Doesn't really matter to me either way but I'll do a better job of watching who is buying something from me if anyone can access it. Flyin

Who told you that the used gun may have trouble running right?? The smith? Flyin

What does everyone consider flat shooting?? Dot doesn't move or the dot doesn't leave the lense?? Flyin

I'm like a less restictive start. Leave those starts for those short stages or classifiers where a turn and draw has more weight. I like the very matter of fact starts on the short stages. Your able to tell exactly what you need to work on when you compare times. On a 20 secs stage the turn and draw isn't a big factor in the stage compared to a 2-4 secs stage. I like to see toes, heels or whatever on marks. Freestyle....... I don't mind those starts but I like to see how shooters pick which way to start and why on the more freestyle type of starts. Flyin

I noticed that in the match results after Oct 1st that you can't click the persons Uspsa number anymore and get the entire match results for just that person. I'm sure it is just a matter of time. Like that site, thanks for all the hard work. Flyin

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I like cardboard better than paper. I just take a printed target and cut it out. I place it over cardboard and trace it and use a box cutter to cut it out. After I get what I need I just take the same paper cut out of the target and place of the cut cardboard target. I then just take a ball point pen and "pop" holes in the first layer of cardboard following the dotted lines on the paper target. This outlines the A,B, C and D zones. If you have trouble seeing them just push the pen a bit deeper. I just used a regular full size cardboard target to get my no shoots. Just flip it over and use the white. If you watch how you cut so the full size target perfs don't show up it can be reversible. I make enough so that I can have hard cover targets as well. Paper works fine but gets folded, ripped etc. I made dryfire targets using this method every single one is in perfect shape. Plus you can just throw some duct tape on the back and slap it on a wall and when you pull it off it doesn't hurt the target. It took me about an hr to make around 20 targets. That includes no shoots, full target and hard cover partials. Flyin

Yeah, I'm sure you could get longer screws for the double sided mounts also and get one to work. One of the things I like about Open guns is how they look with single sided mounts. I knew before I even looked at the pic that you probably drilled the frame. How do you like that grip?? Flyin

Results?? Flyin

Great looking gun but don't see any advantage at all. The only difference for me using a standard gun is that being lefty I can't use a thumb rest/*thumb rest [generic]*. My thumbs are on the right side of the gun. The purpose of left hand guns in shotguns and rifles it to put the ejection port and shell ejection away from the shooters face. With an Iso stance the pistol is centered and left/right side ejection on a pistol isn't a factor. Plus the arms are extended and the ejection port on the pistol is further away than a shotgun. The only other thing I can think of is the mag release. I use the trigger finger to do reloads or someone could buy a reverse mag release. One more thing I just thought of. Possibly with a 90degree scope mount being able to mount the scope on the right side it might help with vision. Its a great looking gun. If someone had the skills to do this why not for no other reason than just have a unique gun. Flyin

Any prelim results anywhere?? Flyin

14th in Standard Flyin

Thks for the link. Cliff and Blake both finished 2nd. Who else shot?? Flyin

Why are the US shooters not listed in the results?? Flyin

Sounds like its going to be a good match. I'm not making it up this yr. I have to much stuff going on. Have fun, Good luck to all. Flyin

I'll speak on this. I don't mind squadding and shooting with any shooter of any class. I don't mind watching and helping out as much as I can with technique, stage strategy etc. I don't mind breaking down the "why" and explaining my strategy for a stage. I'll do it all day long because that is how I was helped out by the better shooters when I started. There are some things to remember if your a shooter squadding with better shooters and your looking for advice. 1. Even if someone is helping you all day long make sure you don't take away from their game. If they are in the hole don't start asking questions about strategy. That is for any shooter just not M or GM's. Just be courteous. 2. If you see someone is shooting poorly don't walk and ask "Man, what happened?" Believe it not, Gm's and M's make a ton of mistakes. If your a newer shooter you might not think they make any mistakes. It may be nothing more than losing a total of 1 or 2secs because they didn't hit their position perfectly. The mistakes are there they are just not obvious sometimes. 3. If you do squad with GM's or M's don't be afraid to ask questions. If you don't feel comfortable asking questions just make sure you stick around within listening distance. You can learn quite a bit just listening to conversations about stage strategy. 4. If you see someone sitting off by themselves most of the time thats a hint they want to be left alone. I have only encountered this a few times. Just about everytime it was the person trying to get their head straight after a bad stage. 5. While asking questions and talking don't forget to set steel and paste targets. I have been guilty of this, just not paying attention. 6. If you see a shooter mentally visualizing a stage don't interupt them. I bet you would be hard pressed to find GM's/M's that won't help someone. Just don't forget they are there to have fun just like you. There are only a few people I refuse to squad with and few more I can tolerate some but not much. These are people that are negative or bring drama to a squad. Those that constanstly complain about something just so they can complain. Flyin

I have an Alchin mount and have only used 3 screws for the last couple of yrs. No problems. I did strip a head a couple of yrs back. I just drilled a small hole in the broken screw just far enough to let a screw extractor get a bite. It came right out. It was loctited in also. You just have to make sure the length is right on the screws. Make sure they don't stick out inside the dustcover. Flyin

Yep, JJ gets 28 or at least thats what he said in Shooting Usa when he was giving stage breakdown with Phil Strader. I'm pretty sure Max won nationals with a 28rd big stick. I think Brad Balsley gets 28rds. Anyone know what Chris, KC or any other top shooters?? I think Todd uses a 30rd stick. Anyways my point is I get 27+1. So these guys are getting one more round than me. They can get more but don't see a need for it. I don't know of anyone making GM in Open with a 40. I don't see me making it in the near future either since I don't really shoot matches anymore and definitely haven't practiced in the last 2 yrs except for a couple times. I talked with Bevin about it and he said the only reason he switched was because of 9mm and the cost of brass. He said if it wasn't for the 9 he would still be shooting 40. Flyin