Cuz
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Posts posted by Cuz
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So, progressing on, I'm getting some primers sucked back into the pockets which is messing up my flow. I may try my Lee decap/size die, but it seems a lot of folks are using Mighty Armory or FW Arms decapping dies.
For those folks running just a decapper die, when do you size the brass? It seems like the rest of the spots are being used.
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18 hours ago, ddc said:
Also note that many people, myself included, remove the ratchet mechanism.
But then you don't get that cool sound...
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For those of you who are decapping and NOT sizing on the same die, when do you size?
I'm new to the RL1100 and am getting primers sucked back into the primer pocket with my Dillon die. I'm thinking of switching to my Lee decapping/sizing die but I wonder how it will work since it's not radiused. When I did this in .40 cal on my 550 press I crushed a lot of cases because the case didn't line up with the die perfectly.
If I try a FW Arms or Mighty Armory decapper, then when do you size??
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3 hours ago, Sigarmsp226 said:
Cuz - The round vs. flat relates not to the type of MBF you have but rather what type of material (round pipe or a piece of flat stock steel) you are going to mount the bracket too.....Hang tight - I will walk out and get you a couple f pictures showing my newer model MBF mounted using this type mount on a 3/4" black pipe.
I have mine sitting off to the side waiting on the arrival of my RL1100 - that is why it is sitting where it is in these photos. You can also see how my pole is mounted to my bench - I have a base flange on the top and bottom that is secured by screws into my reloading bench top and another one on the top of this black pipe that mounts into a 3/4" thick piece of plyboard that is above my bench - yep I mounted the upper 3/4" plyboard based on the needed height to make the pipe and the flange adapter fit perfectly. Mark
I'm not so sure about that. I just checked the RangePanda website, and they have 2 pics showing whether to order the flat or round, and on the site he says:
"MUST SPECIFY WHAT STYLE YOU HAVE. FLAT VS ROUND. Please see pics."
Then he has these 2 pics which lead me to believe I need to order the flat one.
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19 hours ago, DRider8 said:
Dillon has vidios on their site that show you how to correct most of the problems that you have mentioned.
Ha, I was all over YouTube and completely forgot to check Dillon for videos.I just went and checked them out, you are right, lots of videos for the RL 1100:
https://www.dillonprecision.com/rl1100-product-videos.html
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12 hours ago, HOGRIDER said:
Cuz:
One of the first issues I had with my RL1100 was a failure of the primer slide assembly. After seeing SEVERAL new RL1100 users experiencing the same or similar issue, I wrote this post on FB with an attempt to help others:
Have seen several posts from users having issues/problems with the RL1100 Primer Slide Indexing Assembly. Early on, during initial setup/operation, mine moved due to the #13001 Lever Arm Bracket being left too loose from the factory. It immediately started locking up the press when raising the toolhead.What I found out from inside Dillon, was that the bottom tip of the Slide Actuating Lever is supposed to be about the thickness of a dime (.053") off the floor of the primer slide channel when the handle is all the way down, with the Actuating Lever all the way towards the front. Just so it doesn't rub the channel floor during operation. This determines the height above the toolhead of the silver Lever Arm Bracket. Also, make sure the tip of the Lever sits in FRONT of the slide roll pin sleeve.For rotation of the silver Lever Arm Bracket, the Slide Actuating Lever should be parallel with the press which will place the Lever approximately middle ways of the roll pin sleeve. Example of mine after final adjustments.Of course, if the machine has been in use for some time, a thorough cleaning of the primer slide and channel area is a prerequisite!I also recommend a drop of blue loctite on the Lever Arm Bracket screw prior to final adjustment.Thank you!!!
This is just the info I needed. I'm not going to be mad at Dillon for not setting my press up correctly, instead, I'm going to be glad that I have one to begin with. And, by having to verify all this "stuff", I'm learning a lot more about my new press. It's a huge step up from the 550B. Especially with a bullet feeder and case feeder.
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Another thing you should do BEFORE putting any powder in the dispenser is rotate the powder adjusting knob fully counterclockwise to minimum charge and then adjust clockwise as needed. I failed to check the setting until after I put powder in and was going to weigh a charge to see where I was at. Well, it was wide open and I dumped a max charge of powder EVERYWHERE. ARGH, stupid stuff I should have known.
I can also see that a critical accessory is a case feeder stop. I got one from Inline Fab, but a few places make them. Once the tube fills with cases it's a pain to try and work through a problem if new cases keep getting put on the shell plate.
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12 hours ago, HOGRIDER said:
I also remembered that I made a mark on the Primer Mag Shield showing the correct height of the Lever Arm Bracket. That gives me a quick reference point in my pre-load checklist..........
This shows the approximate height of my Lever Arm Bracket above the tool head at full up position.
HTHs
thanks, this pic is great for comparison!
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1 hour ago, Sigarmsp226 said:
Cuz - When I had my Mark7 unit I mounted my MBF exactly like HogRider’s picture shows using this inexpensive but solid mounting bracket….This allows you to set the height that works for you. Also if you order be sure to select the unit for the 3/4” ROUND pipe mount. I bought threaded black pipe and the needed end caps and in line connectors at my local Lowes….Mark
https://rangepanda.com/collections/misc-products/products/mr-bullet-feeder-pipe-mount
thanks, I think I’ll order one of those today, but the flat version because I have the newer style MBF mount with the flat bars. -
I didn’t realize how high the case and bullet feeder would end up. I need a small step ladder to get to them.
why is it better to mount the bullet feeder off the press. How do the vibrations affect it?
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To hopefully make this thread more useful, I'm editing it and changing the title.
I got through to Dillon and was able to get the handle unstuck from the half-way position, although I'm not really sure how I did it. I'm coming from a 550, so auto-indexing is new to me. I guess you can't do down half-way and then change your mind... Lesson learned.
Now, I have a new issue. No primers are getting inserted. I'm not seeing any primer slide action so I don't know if I "disconnected" or broke it while trying to get the handle unstuck.
Thanks,
-Cuz
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Ok, I give up, where on the case feeder are you guys mounting the Mr. Bullet Feeder for optimal performance? Which way is it facing? Boy, they sure don't give you a ton of room for the MBF die next to the powder measure and primer tube. An extra 1/8" or so between dies would have been nice.
Thanks,
-Cuz
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9 minutes ago, Sigarmsp226 said:
Cuz - I bought one of these (link below) and use it on my 650 and I love it…Thought I would mention this as it is just under $20.00 before shipping and hooks right in place of your loaded bin unit….Mark
https://www.doublealpha.biz/us/double-alpha-output-chute-and-spring
Thanks, I was looking at that and almost bought it. Then I got to thinking about how I use my current press. I never let rounds accumulate in the bin. When the low primer buzzer goes off, I fill the primer tube, then dump the loaded rounds out of the bin, into another bigger container. I learned this lesson after a couple of times allowing a round that didn't get crimped, or one that was suspect ended up in the loaded ammo bin. Now, if something happens and a round I'm not sure about drops in the bin, I'll never have more than 100 rounds to be concerned with. It's really not much effort to have the bin nearby and just dump off the loaded rounds when I fill the primer tube.
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10 hours ago, George16 said:
The big bin just sits on top of the black bar. I had the same complaints re ammo bin so I just drilled a hole through it and the bar so I can install a pin to secure it in place.
That’s a good idea. I’ve already bumped it off just getting things set up.
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5 or 6 years ago I would have thought CO was dumb, but now that my eyesight has degraded to the point that shooting iron sights just isn’t a lot of fun anymore, but I still like shooting my G34 with my Production belt rig, I can see the draw to CO.
i “need” the red dot to have fun shooting, but I don’t want an Open pistol. I’m liking CO more and more each day.
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For those of you getting your press, what condition are they in?
I got mine last December and let the box sit unopened until 2 weeks ago when I finally had room to set it up. I had a defective case feed post, and missing washers. After waiting a week for new post (and washers), I continued with assembly. Now I discovered I didn’t get the plastic locator tabs, and I think my loaded ammo bin is defective. Can anyone confirm if the big bin is supposed to fit securely on the “cartridge bin bracket”? My bin has a wide opening so it just sits there and bounces all over the place. In contrast, the bullet bin locks securely on to the “bullet bin support bracket”.
I know these are petty complaints, but WTF, this press wasn’t cheap, I extended better quality control going out the door.
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I like the separate seating and crimping dies. It gives me one more thing to fiddle with, obsess over, and screw up…
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Isn't that how it's supposed to be setup?
MBF on station 6
Seating die on 7
Crimp on 8
That's what I plan to do if I ever get mine set up.
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1 hour ago, TRUBL said:
This......works fine in the pc carbine; https://volquartsen.com/products/168-hp-action-kit
Yup, that's the one I installed, based on your recommendation. Very happy with it.
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1 hour ago, RGA said:
Adding a powder baffle will take care of that.
I don’t understand how. There’s already one in the Dillon powder measure, and TiteGroup powder meters pretty evenly. How is the UniqueTek baffle any better than what’s already there? It just has smaller openings for the powder.
I'm not trying to be sarcastic, I’ve looked at it and tried to figure out how it would work better, and I don’t understand how it can.
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4 hours ago, Farmer said:
I noticed that the temp range is 20-100 deg. Would this be a problem for you? Maybe someone has used it at lower temps will chime in.
My brother cured the lighting problem on his Chrony by putting a couple of those oval HF led flashlights on top of the diffusers. Works great!I have not use mine outside of that temp range, but into the 90’s with no problems. I like how the ProChrono app pulls the current temp and barometric pressure from your location when you shoot a string.
I’m not going to say the ProChrono DLX is better than the Labradar, but I don’t think anyone will argue it’s a better value. I’ve used mine a lot over this past year because COVID has me trying many different brands, shapes, and weights of bullets. But once I dial in the load I like for each one it will go back on the shelf until I am forced to change my load again, which may not be for another 5 years.
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4 hours ago, MarkS_A18138 said:
I have had mine since he started making it and I would never sell it.
Mine’s less than a year old, but I could not agree more.
Thank you Umberto!!
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The app keeps your data handy so you always have it with you, and you can also email yourself a .csv file with the data so if your handy with Excel or a database you can import all your load data and do all kinds of things with it.
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7 hours ago, dansedgli said:
If the labradar had the Prochrono DLX bluetooth app it would be perfect.
I really liked the app when I borrowed a friends prochrono when my CED was being a jerk. That one had some trouble with the lighting conditions also though which was frustrating.
I agree, I replaced my very old shooting chrony last year, and looked at the Labradar and ProChrono DLX. I went with the ProChrono because of the app. I’m very happy with it, and the price was very reasonable. I used it a lot this past year only because I’ve been shooting so many different bullet brands. Normally once I lock in a load, the chrono sits on the shelf for a long time before I need it again, only if I have to work up a new load. It’s a great value.
FW Arms Decapping Die Review
in General Reloading
Posted
If you moved the resizing to station 3, what's happening to the "Swage primer pocket/expand Neck" operation that is supposed to be happening at station 3?
How does the FW Arms die compare to the Mighty Armory die? I think they have a decap/size die.
Also, are these other dies radiused at the bottom? If not, do they crush cases when loading if they don't line up perfectly?