Cuz
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Posts posted by Cuz
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Is the only real difference between this and the OEM toolhead the threading in station 4?
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41 minutes ago, mkmckinley said:
One note I will make on the FW Arms swage backer. Make sure to adjust it so it just barely touches the bottom of the case. It’s possible to screw it in too far and gouge into the bottom of the case. This damages the case by pushing the bottom of the primer pocket down a little.
can you do any damage to press or brass by leaving the top die part empty on the processing tool head?the bottom swager part will still be operating, just without the hold down.
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Thanks for the info mkmkinly and DDC. After loading a couple hundred rounds of preprocessed brass, I’d say there is quite a difference.
So now I need to find an RL1100 tool head in stock somewhere.
Also, FW Arms makes 2 decapping dies, which one are you guys using?
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Spent primers are EVERYWHERE! Why can’t the damn spent primers just drop in the cup like they’re supposed to?
I already bought the attachment to replace the cup that will funnel them down a tube, but I’m sort of afraid to use it until I trust my decapping/sizing die, and right now, I don’t no need to actually see the primer drop to know it got removed. Currently about 20% of them are going in odd directions and landing all over the floor. What a pain.
while I’m on the subject, whose primer catching are you using? I got one from Range Panda as an add on item since I was already ordering some stuff, but I think I’d prefer a metal one over plastic.
Thanks.
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4 hours ago, mkmckinley said:
Here’s what I’m doing at the moment with explanations.
CASE PREP:
- Wash and rinse: Water/Alcohol/KOH/D-Lead wash and rinse in cement mixer
- Dry in pot/hot plate/thermometer
- Sort via case sorter w/ .380 plate
- Rollsize/inspect for debris, pins, stepped, non-brass, non-9x19 etc.
- Run through press: Lube w/ One-shot, Station 2: FW decap, 3: FW swage, 8: Dillon size die w/decap removed.
- Wash with Armorall Wash and Wax + lemishine + dishwasher detergent, (steel pins not needed) (wax component is case lube)
- Dry in pot/hot plate combo
LOAD:
- Casefeed
- Size/decap (doesn’t need lanolin lube b/c already sized, size die now mainly to repeatably center shellplate and back up decap)
- Swage (add NOE expander here. Brass already swaged once, this is really just a check to make sure no spent primer, Depth: bury expander in case. Expander should be .002 under/over bullet)
- Prime w/ hold down die
- Powder drop only (adjust Dillon or SSI powder funnel to only drop powder, no need to bell/expand here bc already expanded at station 3 using NOE, no stick b/c armoral wash and wax)(watch powder bar in lieu of powder check die)
- Bullet drop
- Bullet seat
- Taper crimp
Running a separate brass prep stage gives each case two runs through a decapper and two decap confirmations at the swage station. I may move the rollsizer to after the press so I can visually inspect for no primer next time I go through a bunch of brass. This procedure also results in clean ammo without case lube everywhere. I get a smooth running press and <1% failure rate in my hundo.
The brass prep stage saves tine loading, cuts down on wasted components, and increases safety and reliability of ammo.
i like this setup, but have a couple questions.
Regarding prep:In station 3, how is FW swage different from Dillons?
in station 8, why not leave decapping pin installed as a fail safe?
regarding load:
Whats an NOE expander?
and why use it over the MBF powder funnel/expander in powder station?Thanks.
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54 minutes ago, N7VY said:
The carbide portion of the dies aren’t making it through Dillons quality control. Not sure how many companies make that type of product but I would think that Dillons would have other suppliers if there were any. I’m sure the China virus has effected all of this. I’ve looked at other die companies and the supply is limited. Good thing dies don’t really wear out.
okay, so the 90% failure rate isn’t on the dies they’re selling. Those have (hopefully) already passed the quality control phase. It’s on the dies coming into Dillon to be sold, right???? -
This setup would give me an excuse to buy another press and bullet feeder. Or forget about the 2nd bullet feeder and use the extra press for case prep.
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14 minutes ago, N7VY said:
I was in Dillons last week and we were talking about dies. They said that they have 90% failure rate for the carbide part of the dies.
What exactly does that mean?
How do they fail? What happens? Will I know it when a die I’m using fails?
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I wonder what the difference is?
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14 minutes ago, Ccampo1129 said:
Very true. Did not even think about that as sweeping. Ive also seen people bend over to pick up brass and their muzzle sweep me or others while their pistol is holstered. Id assume this would fall under the same rule? Just curious. Good point
I had to look it up myself, because my kid asked what happens if he sweeps his foot while holstering during “make ready”. He is shooting his first USPSA match in a couple of weeks.
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33 minutes ago, Sigarmsp226 said:
One of the reasons I was wanting to go to the F W Arms decapping die is because I have it on hand and even after filing the decapping pin on my Lee “U” die resizing/decapping die I am still experiencing 1-2 rounds per hundred that are getting sucked back up into the case and as a result when that case gets to the swage station it ruins the case and causes the press to want to freeze up on the down stroke….
33 minutes ago, Sigarmsp226 said:
ya know, I always thought pre-processing brass was a complete waste of time, but after less than 1000 rounds on my 1100, the primer suck back issue has me thinking about getting one of those Lee APP presses to deprime cases before I clean them. Then I don’t have to worry about stuck primers during loading.
Mark, I was originally going to ask why you didn’t just set up the dies the way Dillon recommended, but now after reading through these posts I find myself looking to order a Lee 9mm U-die since all I use is range pick-up for 9mm. I sort of thought I had it covered by ordering a Hundo gauge to check my ammo.
I don’t want to replace my toolhead, but I would like to solve the primer issue. I have filed the Dillon decapping pin, and it happens less often, but even once or twice every 100 rounds is way too much.
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7 hours ago, Ccampo1129 said:
Any time you sweep yourself.....DQ!!! anytime
Umm, not really.
Rule 10.5.5.1 Exception - A match disqualification is not applicable for sweeping of the lower extremities (below the belt) while drawing or re-holstering a handgun, provided that the competitor's fingers are clearly outside of the trigger guard.
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1 hour ago, Mcfoto said:
…I personally have witnessed at least two new shooters DQ before their first shot. Neither came back. It is unfortunate but a necessary consequence of keeping our sport safe.
while I don’t necessarily disagree with you, I can’t help but think that when a new shooter is DQd so early, the rest of the squad, or at least someone there with experience needs to share a little bit of the blame. I had to DQ a new shooter a while back, and it happened because the experienced shooter that brought his new shooter friend never told anyone else in the squad that we had a new shooter. Had I known the kid was new, I would have RO’d him differently and asked if he understood the course of fire, etc. it was just a small local match, and we would have “coached” him through the process to make sure he was safe, and had fun.
Now, as soon as I’m in a squad, before anyone starts shooting, I always ask if there are any new shooters, and if so, what there experience level is and if they want any advice or help. It makes for a much more enjoyable day. -
1 hour ago, Dirtchevy841 said:
File the dillon pins to a chisel point and that fixes issue of pull back. Not one since I did that years ago
I did that, and will monitor. If it happens again, I'll file it very aggressively, but after that I'll switch to the Lee. I also have a Lee Factory Crimp die that I want to use, but I'll hold off until the Hundo guage comes in and then I'll see what my ammo does in the guage. Currently they all feed and cycle reliably except for the light strikes. I've adjusted that and am waiting to test at the range.
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Has anyone else noticed a significant drop in velocity chronographing their Gen3 and Gen5 Glocks? I have a Gen3 and Gen5 Glock 34, and the Gen5 is about 4-5 PF below the Gen3. That’s about 30-40 FPS with 124gr Bullets. My Gen3 G17 is consistently between the two G34s. Not sure if it’s the Gen5 rifling that is causing lower velocities or not. Just figured I’d ask.
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17 hours ago, Sarge said:
And it’s just like adjusting a die. The smallest movement will fix it. If you can get in a position to see it run from above you can see the problem instantly. This is another reason to Mount the MBF “off press” on a pipe. I can loosen it and slide it down to troubleshoot, clean etc.
now that would have been a good reason to mount the pipe on the bench going up to the MBF, rather than having it come down from the ceiling. I can only lower it about a foot, and I think my press may be in the way. I may need to relocate the pipe mount. -
Hundo ordered. All that’s left now is the waiting.
Thanks all.
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Thanks George16 and Hogrider. I never used the other end of the calipers before. I measured about a dozen, and just like my OAL variance, I got measurements from .001 - .008”. But I think part of that is my inexperience with the back end of the calipers. Most were in the .002-.006 range. These rounds are loaded after I made an adjustment earlier. Haven’t tested them yet. I may look for some old rounds I loaded on the 550 and see where they measure.
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19 minutes ago, synchronicity said:
Received my Bayou Bullets order - 5 1/2 months later.
Lol, I know what that feels like. I can't believe how many orders I placed with different bullet manufacturers during COVID panic mode. They've all started coming in over the last few months and I have no where to put them, and nowhere near enough primers to load them. On top of that, I've shifted away from coated and back to jacketed bullets, so now I don't want to "waste" my few precious primers on the coated ammo. I'll just set it aside until primers become reasonable and then load and shoot it as practice ammo.
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9 minutes ago, lll Otto lll said:
It's not that one is necessarily better than another....it's just that they're different.
Ben Stoeger Pro Shop is down the road from me, so I went with Hundos.
I have the black flip trays as well, which I use way more often than the blue risers.I think I've come to that same conclusion. I have some Armanov products and I'm happy with them. This time around I'm going to go with Hundo mostly because I've learned a lot from Shred's posts over the last 15+ years and want to share the wealth. Just waiting to hear back from Stoeger so I can place the order.
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11 minutes ago, NETim said:
Yep. You need to adjust the plate that has the scalloped spacers on it to fine tune it. It's a seat of the pants adjustment though. I've found that the plate has to be adjusted outwards in order to completely flip upside down bullets to a nose up attitude.
Thanks, that's what I figured. It's just hard to get to since it's towards the front of the machine, and not very accesible with the limited room I have around the press. Oh well, the adventure continues.
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7 minutes ago, George16 said:
According to the RL1100 manual, primers should be seated between .002-006” below flushed max at .008”. Keep on adjusting the seating depth until you reach this parameter.
If it’s adjusted too much, it’ll crush or detonate the primer so be careful. By the way, what primers are you using?
I read the manual, but I can't figure out how to measure something that's .002-.006" below flush. I'm just not that skilled with calipers. On my 550, I just pushed the handle up all the way until it didn't go anymore. I guess I may have to "sacrifice" one primer by increasing the depth until I get to "too much", and then hope I recognize that I reached "too much" and back it off 1/8 of a turn.
I'm currently using CCI small pistol primers. Once these run out, I don't know what the heck I'll be using...
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My MBF seems to be dropping 1 out of 10 bullets upside down. Is that the sliding adjustment screw just under the unit that needs to be moved in slightly? I'm using 124gr conical JHP bullets, currently from Precision Delta, which I am liking a lot. May need to order more of these.
Thanks.
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Next problem, I'm getting light strikes on some of my test ammo with my Glock17. It has a lightened striker spring and a very light trigger pull. But, it has been 100% reliable shooting ammo from my RL550, which leads me to believe the primer depth setting is not deep enough. I've adjusted it about 1/8th of a turn 3 times now and while I'm getting less of them, it's still happening.
So, my question is, how deep is too deep to seat the primers??? What happens if I crank it down more than I should? Will it simply crush a primer, or detonate it? The primers are currently seated below the case, but every time I get a light strike, the round will fire if I cycle it through again, so I'm assuming I can still seat them deeper.
Any advice is appreciated. Once I know how deep is too deep, I can set it there, and back it off 1/8th turn, right???
RL 1100 new press setup issues.
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
Thanks Mark,
I didn’t even have to install the Range Panda product to know I won’t use it. I do have a bunch of his stuff and like it a lot, and I was already ordering more stuff so I figured I’d take a chance.
I tend to order stuff I need based on what else they have that I want to sort of minimize shipping. I have an order arriving from Ben Stoeger tomorrow, I wish I had waited because now he has a few other thing I want. I’m going to have to spend a few extra minutes on his website to try and order everything at once. As much as I don’t want to, it looks like I’m going to go to a 2 pass system for my 9mm since it’s mostly junk range pickup brass. By the time I’m done the accessories costs are going to have me wondering if I should have just gotten a CP2000 with the 1100…